new master cylinder - bench or gravity bleed
Just installed a new master cylinder and proportioning valve in my crx. I tried bench bleeding the mc in my hand for like 40 mins and i cant seem to get only fluid coming out of hte lines back into the mc, theres always bubbles.
Can i install the mc and just do a gravity bleed? IF i can, can i do just 2 wheels at a time?
Can i install the mc and just do a gravity bleed? IF i can, can i do just 2 wheels at a time?
Installing the master now will be fine, it just might take longer to fully bleed the brakes though. If you are gonna gravity bleed the brakes, do it to all 4.
However, why not use the "pump and hold" method? With the engine not running, have someone pump the brake pedal till it reaches full pressure (roughly 5-10 pumps) and then press and hold the brake pedal (no need to apply a lot of foot pressure though) and then you can open the bleeder valve on a single caliper/wheel cylinder for only a slight amount of time (just long enough till the pedal reaches the floor). And repeat on each bleeder valve till its a solid stream of fluid with no air. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder while bleeding.
On your crx you will want to bleed in this order.
1) drivers front
2) pass rear
3) pass front
4) drivers rear
After you complete the sequence, start the car and feel the brakes, you may need to bleed twice.
I felt like lending a hand tonight haha.
However, why not use the "pump and hold" method? With the engine not running, have someone pump the brake pedal till it reaches full pressure (roughly 5-10 pumps) and then press and hold the brake pedal (no need to apply a lot of foot pressure though) and then you can open the bleeder valve on a single caliper/wheel cylinder for only a slight amount of time (just long enough till the pedal reaches the floor). And repeat on each bleeder valve till its a solid stream of fluid with no air. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder while bleeding.
On your crx you will want to bleed in this order.
1) drivers front
2) pass rear
3) pass front
4) drivers rear
After you complete the sequence, start the car and feel the brakes, you may need to bleed twice.
I felt like lending a hand tonight haha.
Depends on the location of the master. I researched it and you should start form furthest away. i.e. if master is on driver side start with rear passenger, then rear driver, front passenger, front driver.
If getting bubbles, make shure every other vavle is completely tight. pump the brake pedal before bleeding and keep refilling resivoir so that all abs lins and all calipers are full, then you bleed.
If getting bubbles, make shure every other vavle is completely tight. pump the brake pedal before bleeding and keep refilling resivoir so that all abs lins and all calipers are full, then you bleed.
i ended up pumping the brakes for a while, i guess it just took way longer than i thought for it to fill all the way back to the rear. i stuck a tube from the open bleeder to a bottle with fluid in it and it eventually started to gravity bleed on its own. all bleed now 
Only problem is the driver front caliper is hanging up, not sure what to do there yet... I thought when i bought the calipers the guy told me they had been rebuilt already..

Only problem is the driver front caliper is hanging up, not sure what to do there yet... I thought when i bought the calipers the guy told me they had been rebuilt already..
Well if its from a Helms then it must be right. However, it's not always wise on our Hondas to go by the typical rule of distance in our cars. We do use a crossed brake system on the modern ones as many car makers do. The RR, FL, RL, FR applies to DCs and EKs, perhaps it was different back in the day of the CRX. One thing that can be taken as fact is to ALWAYS go by what the Helms manual says. Thank you 90sedan
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