Hey guys, thanks for lookin!

I am doing a swap this weekend with my friend. My motor is going into his car, his motor into my car. im really excited about the swap and cant wait to get it started....and done!

I have a EJ6 ('96 DX Coupe) with a well built B16 in it.

He has a EK9 ('96 DX Hatch) with a JDM B18C

Im running a chipped P28 and will be keeping my ECU and wiring harness etc.. So im not removing our harnesses. I have another post up asking about having to swap axles or not, but im not sure?

This post is really just askin those who have done countless swaps if they have any advice or things i should look out for or not swap or not take off. Im using the 2300 page Honda Service Tech manual as a guide but some things in there dont need to be done. (for instance, removing the main harnesses) The only part i seem a little sketchy on is removing the axles, i went a got a pickle fork to remove the ball joints to get to the axles, but idk...ill see how it is when i get there!!!

again ANY information is greatly appreciated and welcomed....thank you in advance...

Dc2

 

jack up both cars
remove axles from both
drain fluids
remove shift linkages
remove exhaust manifolds/headers
remove radiator for ease
remove hoses to heater core
remove fuel return and feed lines
unplug all harness clips and push entire harness towards firewall
remove all vacuum, emmissions hoses and throttle cable
remove slave cylinder from trans
look over motor and remove anything keeping it attatched to the car that i havent mentioned
remove bolts from transmission holding the t bracket on
remove bolt holding t bracket to rear mount
put engine hoist on motor
get tension on chain/strap
remove driver and passenger mount bolts
lift motor out of car

reverse to install. make sure the t bracket is bolted to the trans through that one bolt on the top.

keep motor at a slant with transmission side down
lower motor into bay until transmission mount is under the chassis mount location
jack motor back up and install trans mount bolt
lowermotor letting it pivot on trans mount bolt and bolt in driver side mount bolt.
t braket should slide over the rear mount, put that bolt in then use a jack/pry bar to move the motor until the 2 19mm bolts line up on the t bracket to trans.

BAM MOTORI'S IN

i just put my motor in my rhd teg, took me 30 minutes lol

 

make sure you got all the tools you need... 32mm for the axles... 10mm,12mm,14,15,17,19...pliers for hose claps. phillips screw driver and so on. just make sure you can handle it... my friend started doing a swap didnt have a clue what he was doing and his car was down for 2weeks till i could get to it.

 

30 mins!!!! wanna come help me do mine!!! lol

I should just release the axles from the tranny? i dont need to release them from the ball joints? that would make sense if im going to re-use each of them and ALOT easier!...

thanks for the info...KEEP IT COMIN!!!

 

dont forget beer!

 

you have to undo the bottom ball joint to at least pull the axles out of the tranny, slide them out and then you can hoist the motor out. and the b18 and b16 have dif driver side mount brackets i believe.

 

30 min? Damn you must be a pro... hahah. First time I've done a swap took me six hours

 

if you do one swap the next one is as quick as busting a nut

 

anyone confirm this?

 

Label all the bolts that you take out. It will save a lot of confusion and you won't have any "spare parts" in the end.

 

If using a B18C for my swap are is the ECU from my non vtec D16y7 Auto usable?
I really want to swap ODB2 = ODB2 and have 5 speed B18C.
What else might I need.. I have nothing but time and need motor still so building up my arsenal of parts to do this!!!!
What mounts would I need for the swap. I have read many swaps but none exactly like mine. I have searched, but am new to forum. Any help is awesome..
Going to do a B18C 5spd LSD 96-98 OBD2 swap.. Seems most logical for my car.
What do you think?

 

You plan on using a single cam ECU on a dual cam engine?lol, uh needless to say you cant. B18C yeah good swap no doubt, its got good torque. Research about the swap b4 u get into it. I cant tell you what you need because I dont know but I believe its a combination of stock civic mounts and integra mounts. Oh and its OBD, not ODB.

 

lol....really? then how am i and countless other people running a P28 on a DOHC? Ive been running the P28 on my B16 for 3 years with NO CEL's....

 

i think you should start your own thread....thread jacker....lol

 

A chipped P28 is probably the most popular ECU to run on DOHC VTEC swaps.

 

Oh lol my bad, thats weird!

 

Sorry about the untimely post about my ravenous need for EJ6 knowledge. OBD2 and yes I should start a thread, but then I need to drill and tap. What size do you recommend? J/K

Really wanted to know as CAR A is my Car, and CAR B is my dream motor, and I want to do 5spd. not to much info I could find... SUBCRIBED and watching thanks in advance...

Oh and I really need ECU too? I think it will come with my SWAP KIT...... LOL

 

well my car had no motor in it and axles were already out. i just dropped my built motor in it and hooked up starter, harness, nitrous lines, fuel lines, and my coolant stuff. thats what took 30 min.

still have to put in axles, radiator, exhaust stuff and go tune it.

 

I didn't know a Civic DX is considered a right-hand-drive Japanese market Honda Civic Type R these days?

The compressor bolt, as well as a good "dead blow" hammer, is good for removing the spring pin. You'll likely want to replace it in the process.
For axles, you'll need to unbolt the fork-looking thing holding it in, and will need two wrenches the same size, one to hold the nut and the other to turn the bolt. After this is loose, hammer it out with a punch or small bolt. You may need someone to stand on it to re-align it when ready to reinstall.

 

huh?! i dont even own a civic dx?

i have a 94 civic ex that is my sfwd car
a 97 integra type r that was converted to rhd (the one i just put the motor in)
an 88 crx hf (about to sell to a friend for an all motor class car)
and a 91 crx si (autox car)

 

mark all hoses for easy re connections

 

One Word of Advice is Have A 32MM Socket and a big Breaker bar for those tight *** Cv Axles.

and be careful while chaining the engine up for the engine hoist. I have broken a few sensors and connectors when chaining it up wrong and pressuring the hell out of the sensors lol.

Take your time and don't rush none of your work and remember everything and anytime something frustrates you sit down count to 10 and have a beer or 2 and get back at it. that or you will end up like me and bust a knuckle or brake something or punch your fender lol.

Good Luck Bro!

 

dont get scared with the axel nut. I stood on the breaker bar and it came loose easy. And My advice is to have some type of power tools, you will wish you had one when you get to the mounts in some tight places and those bolts are pretty long.

 

Correct.

 

Ah nah I was referring to the friend, Also, some hoist motors in/out, that'd of course be the easiest way to do it, but sometimes renting a hoist isn't applicable. They're $200 or so brand new depending on brand and stuff, and can be rented for maybe $35 a day and deposit. But, if that is not available, you can raise the car up a lot on jackstands and slide motors underneath with cardboard, then maybe use a floor jack to reach the mount points. When removing my D16Y8 (threw rod) I took off the head, then transmission, and then let the block kind of clunk out noisely in the dead of night. Are you looking for "motor change" advice like we've been spouting, or just going to a different type of motor altogether advice?