i have a good condition b18b1 that im about to put a b16 head on and boost and I was confused about the oil lines.

I have to feed the head, turbo, and oil pressure gauge and I don't know what the easiest route would be to not have oiling issues or just keep it clean without a bunch of lines coming off the pressure sender.

Also I plan on putting a GSR girdle on it but I don't know what a safe rev limit would be, any ideas from the turbo ls/v guys?

Any input on a ls/v turbo that might help me dont be afraid to post, I wanna do this right. Thanks

 

Use the Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Kit. follow it to the letter.
Oil feed from oil sending unit is still used.
Not sure about the use of a GSR girdle on the LS block, could be clearance issues. That is not just where "revving" should be a concern.

 

doesnt the golden eagle kit come with a sandwich plate? i always hear about those leaking but then again i dont think any of them were GE.

"Not sure about the use of a GSR girdle on the LS block, could be clearance issues. That is not just where "revving" should be a concern. "

well help me out bro, what should I do? I'm a D series guy I'm pretty new to all this bseries stuff... I didn't plan on taking it any higher then where it stops making power with the GSR cams but if I can make it stronger I want to.

 

For the block gridle, you will either have to machine the block and use a stock GSR gridle, or buy Golden Eagles gridle kit, which is fully bolt on.

For the oil lines, Golden Eagle ls/v kit comes with a sandwhich adapter that has two oil pressure ports. One is used for the kit, and comes with a fitting for it. The other port is actually plugged. You can remove that plug and use that port for your turbo oil feed, just get a 1/8npt to a 3 or 4an adapter.

If the B18B1 is pre-96, you may want to replace the oil pump as the older LS pumps are inadequate.

Also, you may want to monitor all this oil pressure. To install my aftermarket oil pressure sender, I removed the stock one from the block, installed a 1/8bspt to 4an adapter, ran 10 inches of 4an line, ran that to a 1/8npt tee, and installed both senders on the tee. The reason for this is that tee-ing straight from the block is no good. Vibration can cause the tee to break off and lose all oil pressure, which would be bad if you were in VTEC and at full boost.

 

Also, ls rods, bearings and pistons aren't as strong as its b16 counterparts. The gridle would definitely help with the higher revving, but it won't make the internals immune to failure.

Fourth picture from the bottom shows the two ports on the sandwhich plate
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/rms-ryans-dc2-fab-build-thread-2546857/

Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Kit
http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...?productid=380

Golden Eagle Gridle Kit
http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...cat=155&page=1

 

What kind of LS oil pump should I go with?

And how much machining would it take to use the gsr girdle?

 

gsr, type r, and 96+ ls are all the same part number. 15100-p72-a01.

I dont know how much machining exactly, but I've heard it's a lot.

 

So it might just be easier to just get the girdle kit?

how much power are ls/v's good to before your pushing the limits of stock internals? Also what would be a safe rev limit with/without the girdle?

 

don't worry about the girdle. you can take it to 9000 without one, as long as you're not using stock rods.

as for bearings, you can use b16 rod bearings, which are tri-metal versus the bi-metal of the ls bearings. main bearings for the b series are all the same.

 

I dont plan on opening this bottom end up and if I do I'm just going to say **** it and build it. The reason I'm not building it now is because I'm buying all the mic's/ring compressors i need and any other tools needed to build it over time cause they are so expensive.

What would the benefit of b16 bearings be over LS? Do I need to do this?

And can anyone else vouch on LS's being good to 9k? sounds too good to be true..

 

Make a oil block from Mcmaster....

 

hey totsie I'm from baltimore I used to have a black 93 si hatch w/ a boosted D in it w/ chalkboard hood(2 yrs ago). you got a clean *** car bro. whered you get that oil block?

 

My ls/v doesnt have a block gridle...but the most I take it to is 8k @ 7.5 psi. No dyno numbers as the motor is being taken out of a DC and put into an EJ.

 

why would I need to change the bearings to b16 though? would i benefit from this? longevity?

 

i edited my post.. i forgot an important word, lol.

 

a block w/ vtec is manufactured with components for higher revving. Any swap of components into a non-vtec block will always yield better results for longevity. Simply put.

 

I was thinking to myself like yeah that doesn't really make much sense lol

So I basically have to replace the bearings in the bottem end now if I want it to last right?

 

did you change your bearings too? any other recommendations?

I need rod bearings for a b16 and main bearings for any b series right?

 

So far I've been revving my stock block LS to 8600 all day with no problems. GE LS-V kit. Sandwich adapter is feeding the Vtec head for oil, stock sending unit is tee'd to feed the turbo.

 

cool thats pretty much what I wanted to do/planned on doing

how long have you been running that setup?

 

Umm I wouldn't take it that high. I used to have a stock bottom end LS with a GSR head that I revved to 8500, but I didn't beat on it everyday.

Just recently I had my stock LS motor tuned, rev limit set at 7300. It made a lot of power so would spin violently up to redline in both second and third. So every time I got on it, it would basically be at or around redline.

Yesterday merging onto the highway, I gassed it in second. Spun hard to redline, then booommm. Spun a rod bearing, rod snapped and made a friggen messssss. Oil/metal chunks everywhere. This was a prefect condition 94 LS motor, oil pressure was perfect (70psi cruising) up until the second it spun.

The LS rod bolts are weak and don't like high RPM's as displayed by my motor. So I am swapping in a new LS motor and lowering the rev limit to around 6800. Better safe than sorry with the LS.

 

revving to the moon just isn't necessary when the effective powerband is going to stop at about 7800-8000rpms anyway. The additional torque will make up for any need to rev the car any higher than 8400rpms or so. the rest is based upon the turbocharger and setup used. "Revving" he car is really secondary.

I've never heard of this b16 bearing being better in any way shape or form from an LS bearing. The OEM one are from Taito/Daido Honda, the differences are only clearances. No longevity issues are a concern. I've got an NA built B16/B20 with LS bearings to match the crank properly and no issues. So I suppose I'm rather confused about one OEM bearing being superior to the other.

 

I have a semi-built LS-V Turbo (forged pistons and rods, ACL bearings, etc) and I rev it to 8500. No issues thus far...

 

looks like we're going hone/pistons/rods/bearings instead of other things just for the reliability issue

 

eagle rods or manley h beams?