brake problem
Earlier today me and a friend were trying to bleed the brake system, left caliper shoots fluid fine through the valve, but the right one has no pressure at all. Could it be that the car been sitting in the garage for over a year. Is there a easy way to clean the whole brake (line) system with a tool?! Air compressor?
What is a good brand of calipers/rotors/brake master cylinder, that I could order for a street/drag driven EF?
Recently I changed the rear drums with caliper/rotor, but now they hardly even work. My friend mentioned about changing the DUAL PROPORTIONING valve with a different one that equalizes the pressure at all four brakes. Which valve (what year car, model) is that?
Show me some websites and suggestions about my problem would be helpful
What is a good brand of calipers/rotors/brake master cylinder, that I could order for a street/drag driven EF?
Recently I changed the rear drums with caliper/rotor, but now they hardly even work. My friend mentioned about changing the DUAL PROPORTIONING valve with a different one that equalizes the pressure at all four brakes. Which valve (what year car, model) is that?
Show me some websites and suggestions about my problem would be helpful
First off, did you bleed the system correctly starting furthest from the MC [rear passenger] and working your way closer?
As far as calipers and rotors, I'de recommend oem, but if your set on having sumthing aftermarket then slotted rotors [your brand of choice] and oem calipers should suffice.
In terms of upgrading the MC, I'de recommend da non-abs 15/16 or ITR 1"
There's alot of dispute on this issue, but I believe for an Ef running stock front brakes with a rear disk swap; the 4040 prop valve or a 3040 will/should work well with your setup.
Check the faq page, there's alot of useful info in there.
Otherwise, GL, hope what I said could be of some help.
As far as calipers and rotors, I'de recommend oem, but if your set on having sumthing aftermarket then slotted rotors [your brand of choice] and oem calipers should suffice.
In terms of upgrading the MC, I'de recommend da non-abs 15/16 or ITR 1"
There's alot of dispute on this issue, but I believe for an Ef running stock front brakes with a rear disk swap; the 4040 prop valve or a 3040 will/should work well with your setup.
Check the faq page, there's alot of useful info in there.
Otherwise, GL, hope what I said could be of some help.
Thanks for replying on this issue. I did not bleed the system the way you stated, I shall try this in the morning and post back if something has changed. But for cleaning the brake lines, is there a special way of doing it?
you will need to swap out the master to the bigger one, get one from a 90/91 crx si, it came stock with rear disc. i had this happen once, it was just junk in the line, cleaned out all the lines first with brake clean took a while, gravity bled it with all the bleeders open, big pain in the ***, also the one with no pressure, did you check the line first to see if you have fluid so you can rule out a bad caliper bleeder?
if you have no pressure you probably just have a ton of air in your lines. i know when i changed just the rubber brake lines it took for ever pumping until fluid finally came out. If your mc was fine before it is still fine. changing your mc and prop valve are basically just fine tuning your braking system.
Trending Topics
you will need to swap out the master to the bigger one, get one from a 90/91 crx si, it came stock with rear disc. i had this happen once, it was just junk in the line, cleaned out all the lines first with brake clean took a while, gravity bled it with all the bleeders open, big pain in the ***, also the one with no pressure, did you check the line first to see if you have fluid so you can rule out a bad caliper bleeder?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SpeedKnight
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
10
Jul 9, 2003 01:47 PM




