My question is: what causes this?

It's on my b20v. GSR head, ARP studs, b20 block, oem b20 headgasket, conversion dowel pins the oil supply for the head was tapped and plugged..

I've replaced the vtec solenoid gasket, distributor o-ring...

When I put the head on I applied hondabond to the front oil drain ports on the headgasket it self. I did not do this to the rears. Is it common practice to do this on the oil drains? I only have this leak on the distributor side of the engine, never on the timing belt side.

Any recommendations would be good thanks. Modifying the head to accept a stock sized dowel is not an option. I'm ordering new dowels and a new headgasket. I plan on applying more hondabond to the front and rear oil drains (good or bad?).

Let me know thanks!

 

Are you sure the head gasket is not upside down?

I also had this issue before but it was my vtec solenoid leaking and made me think it was coming from the head gasket. Hopefully thats the case with you.

 

100% sure the headgasket is correctly.

As I stated, I replaced the vtec solenoid gaskets (both of them). And the side of the head is not wet with oil.

 

Hondabond on all oil drains.
This is also why I had extra material welded onto the top edge of my block.

 

Awwite, you're jumping to conclusion here. I heard this from my friend, too, when he worked on his car. He think oil was leaking from his head gasket. So, I checked it out for him. I visually inspected where ALL the leak(s) was coming from, I started from the top of the V.C. and work my way down the head gasket. I've noticed that where his cam gear were, the cam seal was wet w/ oil and dripped down towards his head gasket. Quick fix, took out the cam and put some high-temp. red silicone on the cam seals.

 

I said DISTRIBUTOR side of the engine. Not timing belt side, so its no my cam seals. Again the side of the DISTRIBUTOR side of the head is not wet with oil, so its not running down the side of the head. That pretty much eliminates the VTEC solenoid gasket and O-ring (distributor).

Any other suggestions?

patriot - I remember you grinding the oil drain passages to match the headgasket. I wish I would have done this. I also wish I would've asked the machine shop what it would've cost to have material added to the deck... I guess when I pull it apart I'll replace the dowels (with GE, cuz the ones I have IDK what brand they are.) another OEM B20 headgasket and I'll apply hondabond (ultragray) to the drain passages and pray.

 

Be careful, some gasket makers/RTV can actually eat at the gasket materiel. I never use that on head gaskets...

 

How can ultragray "eat" at a metal 3 layer gasket? Please have an explanation for this type of claim rather than just leaving said claim in a thread where someone is looking for advice.

 

I said "some gasket makers/RTV can eat gasket materiel."

Something do do with the solvents. It doesn't eat the metal, but can break down the coating on the gasket materiel.

I've seen this before from first hand experience. Proper gasket, true mating surfaces- shouldn't leak.

 

Hondabond is good stuff...along with Fujibond(Subaru; which smells, feels, and looks the same as Hondabond) and any other approved RTV will work. Basicly a grey RTV silicone is a comparable product.

 

If I get this place I'm looking at I'll get a headgasket and some more RTV and go at it.