Looking for advice for B18A1 Head Build
This is the first time I am getting a head built and I want it done right. I want all the right parts and it done right the first time.
I want to know what people usually do to a head.
I know I want it fully cleaned, gasket matched, ported intake, ported exhaust, polished combustion cambers, head milled, 3 angle valve job.
What brand valve seals?
What brand cam seal?
Who makes a good idling b18a1 non-vtec cam?
What brand retainers & springs?
What brand valves?
What brand main and head studs?
I am sorry but I am looking for reccomendations as I said I am new to this.
How much power can I expect? my bottom end will be left untouched and I have a lsd trans.
Thanks!
I want to know what people usually do to a head.
I know I want it fully cleaned, gasket matched, ported intake, ported exhaust, polished combustion cambers, head milled, 3 angle valve job.
What brand valve seals?
What brand cam seal?
Who makes a good idling b18a1 non-vtec cam?
What brand retainers & springs?
What brand valves?
What brand main and head studs?
I am sorry but I am looking for reccomendations as I said I am new to this.
How much power can I expect? my bottom end will be left untouched and I have a lsd trans.
Thanks!
oem or ferrea valve seals, skunk2, golden eagle, BDL or blox cam seals. i would personally go with crower cams, along with retainers, springs, keepers and valves. supertech and ferrea are also great valve manufacture'rs. get arp head studs .you can expect 20-30hp with a port and polished head with the 3 angle valve job. but dont get over sized valves without buying the proper pistons that have the right valve reliefs. and if your going to do all this you're gonna want to get an after market intake manifold and throttle body (at least 65mm)..... but honestly man your building your motor backwards. you should start with the block first, get the bottom end done, break that SOB in then worry about doing the head up later. if you do all this head work without the block being taken care of your asking for trouble. those b18 rod bolts dont hold up under high rpm so your more than likely to spin a bearing and do some damage. and the last thing you want is to have to purchase a new block even though they're relatively cheap.
i'd go with crower 403's w/ crower dual valve springs and ti retainers and crower cam gears but thats up to you , i have a passwordjdm cam seal works great, arp head studs, you dont need different valves the stock ones are fine and so are oem valve seals.... but this setup will run you around $1000.......$340 shipped for cams $340 shipped for valvesprings & retainers $around $200 for cam gears, $120 for head studs? but thats right from the dealer...but with the stock block expect around 150whp
As most of you know I have a B18A1, I am getting my head built with a stage 3 job.
The Head Fully Cleaned
Gasket Matched ported exhaust/polished
Polished combustion chamber
gasket surfaces cleaned
Installation of new valve seals
new cam seal
valve clearance checked
head milled
3 angle stock valve job
I plan to use all supertech valve train components and webcam racing camshafts.
Do you think this would be worth it? We suspect 150 WHP if not alittle more. I want to stay non-vtec due to the rareness.
The Head Fully Cleaned
Gasket Matched ported exhaust/polished
Polished combustion chamber
gasket surfaces cleaned
Installation of new valve seals
new cam seal
valve clearance checked
head milled
3 angle stock valve job
I plan to use all supertech valve train components and webcam racing camshafts.
Do you think this would be worth it? We suspect 150 WHP if not alittle more. I want to stay non-vtec due to the rareness.
if you want to be safe spend a few hundred on the block like arp rod bolts, get the rods shot peened,pick up an oem main bearing set. and have your rotating assembly balanced (polished if possible). balacing usually cost a around $150. you shouldnt have to spend more than $500 on the block but this will give you a lil more assurance. blox make a rather inexpensive intake manifold and throttle body... i would purchase those before the cams and get the head P&P, throw the cams in last when you have money to get a computer chipped and dyno tuned from a shop.
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I got a intake and throttle body, I am probably going to do all that on stock cams for now and etc. I am not sure yet. I dont have alot of money after this to play with . Wedding coming up.
you can hit 160whp easily with that setup but you need an aftermarket header w/ some tuning so don forget fuel pressure regulator/ fuel gauge and cam gears along with a better fuel pump i think you can get a walbro for a $100
haha... better do it now before you get married. i know how you feel bro with the money situation, i have a baby on the way so im finishing up my build by this summer before my kid arrives.
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