Stock B18B1
No Grinds, No nothing.

I recently F*&@'d up my motor. I attempted to power shift into 4th from 3rd and I think it went into 2nd taking the needle on the RPM gauge pass 8,500 and into the black . Now my motor sounds a little but different. The mechanical sounds from the engine are little bit louder then before when it was okay but not really noticeable. No crazy sounds like, TICK TACK TICK TACK. So I guess I'm okay right? Since then I never pushed it pass 4,000 rpms.

Before you guys start judging me. Im not a racer, I dont go around racing people. I drive like a 70 year old Vietnam veteran, 40 in the 45 and 60 in the 65. Everyone who passes me gives me that look, "you guys know who you are". I just felt like punching it one day and look what happened...but enough of the story lets get down to bussinaaz.

Do I need a fix? - TBA
Do I want a fix? - Yes

Not going all out on performance but I do want some, reliability is mostly it. I did some research and I cant come up with a good fix. Everyone usually has a ported head or something extraordinary with their built valve-train and camshafts. I want mostly after-market parts but if I have to get OEM I will. I do not want after-market camshafts nor do I want to replace them. PnP-ing the head is not an option either. So I summed up what I think I need.

Valves
Springs
Retainers
Seals
Studs?
Block Guard?
Clean the head(steam blast)?

What else? other little things too? Should I just stick with all OEM? Some good helpful advice would be awesome. Im open to suggestions and opinions.

 

So.....is anything wrong with it?

 

There's a decent chance it's fine...I've heard of much worse accidental downshifts. If you just want to rebuild the motor, go for it....otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. You might try getting a valve adjustment (a cheap procedure even if you can't do it yourself...say ~$50) to see if that quiets the "clacking" down a bit. Stock LS valvetrain isn't going to like being revved that high, but if it was just a momentary thing it probably didn't really hurt anything.

 

Now lets get this straight, Everyone says when the misshift they go way past there rev limit. Doesnt a rev limiter keep the motor from reving to high, weather its in gear or not, yes it does.

 

No. A rev limiter will prevent you from accelerating the motor past a certain point on it's own, however, it cannot stop the gearing of the transmission from turning the motor past that RPM if you misshift.

 

I ended up with 3 bent valves but never noticed it until I had head work done to it about 2 months later. I guess, I can't say the misshift directly caused the bent valves but I'm assuming it did.

 

Have you diagnosed what's wrong with it?

 

That said makes me feel alot better. I might get the vale adjustment too just to make sure the Im on the good side but I think I am already..

Yes kinda, I think... I did that paper clip thingy with the green plug on the passenger side under the glove box to see what codes it blink and I think Im good. The CEL turned on once or I think it didnt turn on at all.

 

That paperclip "thingy" trick isn't going to do anything for you. Have a compression test done and report back the results.

 

Def makes sense thanks for clearing that up. Iv never misshifted into another gear just neutral.

 

Looks like Im going to do a compression test since I only gotta spend about $20 for a compression tester and 20 minutes of my time. Before I begin the test, what numbers should I see across the cylinders? from left to right?

 

Your manual will tell you what numbers to expect, but what's most important is to make sure you do it correctly and the numbers are more or less even across the board. If you don't know how to do it properly, search it before you do it.