Timing belt seized, what to do now?
I was exiting the freeway when I decided to drop into neutral. A few seconds later I noticed that the battery light came on. It was then that I realized that the engine was dead. Now, being that the offramp was on a decline, I decided to use the opportunity to do a already-moving "push" start. Upon letting off the clutch I hear something weird, an odd noise I've never heard before. Once the car rolled to a stop I tried to push start it again to no avail.
It wasn't until I took a peak under the hood and around the cam gears that I saw two pieces of the timing belt teeth sheared off. Now I'm kicking myself for attempting to push start it...twice.
I've never dealt with this before (hell I hoped it would never happen), what do I do now? I had my timing belt and water pump changed out 40k ago with oem stuff (my internals are stock as well).
I know I need to do a compression test, but how do I go about setting the cylinders at TDC without a working timing belt?
It wasn't until I took a peak under the hood and around the cam gears that I saw two pieces of the timing belt teeth sheared off. Now I'm kicking myself for attempting to push start it...twice.
I've never dealt with this before (hell I hoped it would never happen), what do I do now? I had my timing belt and water pump changed out 40k ago with oem stuff (my internals are stock as well).
I know I need to do a compression test, but how do I go about setting the cylinders at TDC without a working timing belt?
Compression test is not good at this point. For you to do a compression test, you need to turn over the engine which can yield more damage. Pull the cylinder head immediately is your next and only step.
Will do! The only problem is that I have no idea how to pull the head. And stupid honda-tech's crappy search engine isn't helping. But, I'm sure google's search will do some good.
By the way, how would I go about figuring out what caused the slippage?
By the way, how would I go about figuring out what caused the slippage?
To set to TDC their is a mark on the lower cambelt cover and a mark on the crank pully to line up. A car manual would be the trick, it will show you where to set everything, it is very easy. their is also an up arrow on each cam so when the crank pully is at TDC and both cams are lined up and pointing up you can put the belt on... To turn the crank pully behind the drivers side front wheel their is a hole to put a socket though to turn the crank around. It would pay to turn the crank and see if anything binds but take the spark plugs out so its easier to it over. Also turn each of the cams with the cover off and make sure nothing binds.
Hopefully you can understand all that.
But if you have never done anything like this it would pay to take it to somebody who knows what they are doing. You don't want to damage the motor anymore if it is at all.
Hopefully you can understand all that.
But if you have never done anything like this it would pay to take it to somebody who knows what they are doing. You don't want to damage the motor anymore if it is at all.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
I say take a chance and mount up everything to tdc throw a belt on and hope for the best.
99% you have a bent valve.
The v6 accord motors, I've seen plenty, with bent valves but the vehicle still drove relatively fine
ironic isn't it
99% you have a bent valve.
The v6 accord motors, I've seen plenty, with bent valves but the vehicle still drove relatively fine
ironic isn't it
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Same thing happened to my EM1, my car was idling, then shut off...tried to start it twice, sounded like the starter wasn't cranking but just whining...
Result...about 4 inches of teeth sheered off...luckily there was no valve to piston top clashing...decided to have the head rebuilt and should be done soon.
Result...about 4 inches of teeth sheered off...luckily there was no valve to piston top clashing...decided to have the head rebuilt and should be done soon.
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