O.k after my friend helped me i got all assembled on my 98'' gsr, but a few bad things happened!
first: the 4.0 pulley grinds on the master cyilinder when i reverse or when i shift slow and the car jerks a little it grinds the pulley is so close what should i do??
i have a check engine light for a coolant temp sensor. update is in last post!

 

bump.

 

can some one help me!!

 

bump

 

Chek for you engine mounting bolts and rubber, normally engine don't jerk so much but i have a euro civic and i don't know how is is close the master cylinder to nose pulley on a Gsr
for your blade coating , i've lost all of mine in 20 000 km, Heat kill it and i think that the stock coating isn't very good
for your 3 and 4 th problem i think they come together leak would cause high idling change your gasket also check for PCV hose under SC S tube
for you MIL it sound strange so check wiring around the SC also vacum hoses

 

thanks bump.

 

ok so what i did on my car to get rid of the stupid pulley grinding issue was to bend the brake line a little towards the pass side to get a lil clearance, then i took a small washer and grinded one side down so it was now in the shape of a C , then i slid it behind one side of the mastercyl to angle it away from the pulley a little bit. this wasnt the best solution, i know, but it worked damn good. I was still on stock mounts at this point, so the motor still had a lot of movement in it, and later upgraded to hasport mounts which pretty much stopped the movement, so that may have fixed the issue also, but I never took the washer out to test it so idk. its up to u on how u decide to fix your issue

 

cool so it angled it to side or upwards? because it seams to grind when it goes up if you know what i mean and anyway you can show me how you did the washer thing?

 

If i changed to the 3.8 pulley nose would that be small enough to not grind when it jerks of course it will increase boost but would that be a cheaper alternative than new motor mounts?

 

I just loosened both nuts holding the master cyl to the booster, and slid the washer behind the pass side of the mastercyl between it and the brake booster, it angled the master cyl slightly towards the drivers side wheel, it almost never rubbed after that, and then when i put in the hasports, it completely stopped rubbing. once u increase the power output of the motor, new mounts are always a good idea, even the inserts are better than nothing. its mostly just the rear mount that needs to be addressed, the oem one allows for quite a bit of movement

once u install the blower its a pain to take it back off, so if u think u will want more boost later on, might as well throw the 3.8 on it if its off the car, otherwise, I left the 4.0 on mine and just put on a crv crank pulley and added teh stepper pulley to the alternator later on, to increase boost because i didnt feel like taking the blower off.

 

im gonna try that so do you insert the c washer under the or over the stud?
i plan on just getting a 3.8 nose it seams it would be easier to put that than new mounts but does the blower have to come off to change the nose?
im sad because i have a check engine light for a coolant temp but cant find the source and it stoped my tunner from tunning the car today urhhh...

 

yea if u want to get the pulley off u need to pull the blower off, as for the washer deal, just put it on the stud commin off the brake booster between the booster and master cyl so it will push it away a little.

 

Blower pretty much has to come off to change the nose pulley. You can loosen the shaft, but there isn't enough clearance to pull it out. The shock tower is in the way.

If I were you, I'd invest in some mount inserts. They're inexpensive and will help with the engine flex.

 

thanks guys, i have energy torque mount inserts but it dont seam to help. man im so sad and mad dude i just cant seem to find out where the source of the check engine light is coming from! i narrowed it down to 3 posible things..
So shawn from churches was looking for the source starting with the thermostate plug and we noticed one of the wires was kind of torn and that could maybe it but he checked it for continuity and the plug seemed fine and thought it must be somewhere else.
So before the jrsc everything was fine, during the instal i noticed two plugs that were not in use when i was runing the shunk 2 pro series intake manifold so my dumb *** clips them off thinking its o.k it will save some room! but tonight i noticed on one of the plugs it had a third wire inside of the black wire loom. so im not sure if that has anything to do with it,
so i took the f'n blower off by myself of course.. and found the part from the harness that i cliped the 2 plugs from, and the plug that acually had 3 wires was a wierd plug.. this is hard to explain bare with me it had one yellow wire with a red line then the second wire was green with i think a orange line but it was wraped in bare wire around that and finished with another black wire and the third looks like a ground wire its just bare wire wraped in the factory tape well i i connected them all back with shrink wrap and used a plug from an old harness i had and connected the wires the thermo. plug, started the car and still has the check light im stumed..maybe i'll try a new harness but if anyone can help me or no any legit places i can go in sandiego lmk or if you can help me fix it i can come to you i need help asap thanks guys.

 

bump i know its alot to ask but i need help asap..

 

nevermind i fixed it! it was the freaking plug next to the vtec solinoid!

 

glad to hear you got that fixed, now throw that SC on and get it tuned!

 

tuned at 230hp 163 tq! gonna take out the pro1 cams and put the stock gsr and a 3.8 nose pulley and shoot for 260hp.