Hey guys im in the process of buying a set of ITB's for my civic i do however have some questions.
1. how hard is it to tune them? and what would i need to use as a tuning devise.
2. would i be able to pass inspection with Itb's?
3. will i notice a BIG difference in fuel loss or gain?
4. how much power will i gain?
this is the kit,

 

What have you done to your engine? ITB's should be the last part of a full N/A build.

If your looking to put these on a stock engine you may actually see a loss in power.

You should have a fully built head including a port & valve job, set of high lift cams and upgraded valve train. You should also have high compression pistons and a good high flowing exhaust.

 

ITBs are not a "peak power" adder. Most visible gains are from 3k-7k, mid range is what their about. But dont get me wrong, they do pick up power all around! Im still waiting for ITBs VS Performer x/skunk2 for peak power

Itbs can be tuned with any tuning software, obviously tuning with a quality ECU/software will produce better drive ability.

Tony, who works at National Speed, has a set of ITBs on his car stock GSR, and he runs stock ECU to pass inspection, it runs good too, AC, PS, Cruise control all still works

But i have to ask, why would you buy something you have no idea about?

 

why would you buy something you have no idea about?[/QUOTE]

X2

 

heres my dyno, 50mm twm's



see build thread for specs.

 

itbs are a nice upgrade but really worth the money ?

 

they are good for mid range and also they provide a dramatic increase in throttle response. however on the street they seem to be more of a bling thing

I say go for it if you think its worth the money but dont expect huge gains and be prepared to have a bitch getting the motor to run right

 

they may be bling but i got them because i hated the throttle response with my blox manifold and gsr tb. i love em tho.

i dunno why everyone thinks its a bitch. the only issue i had was finding the right throttle cable and getting them to open 100%.

other than that i bolted them on, made a new fuel feed/return and it started right up on a basemap for a manifold and tb. didnt drive well tho. but a 2 hour tune and it runs just like its a manifold.

 

Well the reason why im getting them is because i want to be diffrent not too many people have ITB's im not going for power ive had my share of FAST Turbo cars and i want to do something diffrent.
1. can i use the OEM fuel pump.
2. is it better to get my ECU flashed or get something like a SAFCII?
3. as far as the throtle cable would the OEM bolt right up?

 

h-t's motto for ITB's, if you ask about them, dont run them

 

 

Then how am i supposed to learn? i have ITB's in my VW but they are carburated they are diffrent from TWM ITB's unless i ask Q's i wont learn.

 

Thank you Gostaccord for the response i really want to do this i just need some help!!!!! anything else i should know about?!

 

What i've always been curious to know about ITB's is, say you want to use an airbox and CAI for your ITB's for DD.

Does running an airbox on ITB's affect the general powerband characteristics of the ITB's, there by causing them to act more like a manifold?

 

I would imagine the power band with an air box would all depend on how much you restrict the air flow and how long the pipe is. Just like a manifold. The constant will be the much quicker throttle response of the ITB's. With the throttle plates being closer to the head vs a single throttle body way out before the plenum.

Then as you get higher into the RPM's you'll probably start to see it pulling vacuum if the air box and intake tube are too restrictive. Again just like a manifold setup.

 

Right, well I was mainly wondering if Helmholtz Resonances becomes a factor, like with manifolds since a plenium is being added to the ITB's although the air box/plenium would most likely be made of plastic or carbon fiber.

Or, does Helmholtz Resonances even become a factor since the throttle body stands in the way of the runner there by effecting the intake system acoustics with or without the air box?

 

Ah the Helmholtz resonance topic. This always comes up when talking about ITB setups. As far as I know it is always a factor when dealing with any combustion engine intake system.

In regards to ITB's specifically. Have you ever looked at the way a sport bike air box and intake tubes are designed? You can see by there design that they take these factors into consideration.

My GSXR air box is high on the filter side and tapers down into the velocity stacks. The face of the V stacks are only about 3" from a flat spot in the air box cover. The high side is approx 7" tall. I'm pretty sure that design has something to do with the high and low pressure waves and how they can be utilized to gain power.

 

Good points....I'll have to read up on that some more. Perhaps I might yet go the ITB route after all, if thats the case.

I've always wanted to run ITB's (with other supporting mod's) but didnt really see how I could avoid high IAT's and dirty air without using an airbox+CAI which I've alway's imagined effecting the natural charactericstics of ITB's.

 

here is a 240HP B16 all motor ITB's i know i wont make that but i wanted to share the vid with you guys....lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lntXF...eature=related

 

theres really only so many topics which people with experience on these will really get into detail about without getting annoyed about becoming a broken record player.

If you search for "ITB", i bet you get over 100 thread results.

 

search itb posts from me, IntegraType-r and D-Rob youll find all you need.

 

You can affect where ITBs make power by chaning the length of the stacks as well as changin injector location and angle. Also using different bellmouths with different slopes can affect the powerband.. Just most people don't put enough R&D into setting up ITBs to match the rest of their setup.. You CAN make tons of power with them if you know what your doing and don't just slap them on and go with it..

 

I thought about it long and hard as well and hti is what I came up with.

This hood



+ this air box



= low IAT's & a high volume of filtered air. It will still be functional in the rain as well.

 

I was going to say, what about rain? Living in FL during the summertime means rain every afternoon like clockwork so an airbox with filter would be a must have.

I dont know if I would go that length for IAT's, probably just a CAI. Ideally it'd be nice to have one tune for the airbox+CAI, and another chip for running at the track without the box or CAI, just a special hood for a cowl or ram induction, perhaps.

Nice work!

 

ok i have been offered a ported skunk2 manifold and a skunk2 68mm TB for 300.00 would it be easier to go this route or stick with the ITB's is there alot diffrence in power?