Hey,

I have a 2001 Accord Lx, 4 cylinders auto with 122K miles.
The transmission is fine at all times when cold,
shifts smooth without any delays.
but after driving for like 30 min on highway.
When I come to a stop, it jerks badly
going into 1st and 2nd gears.
If I feather the gas its less noticeable but still shudders and its worse on 1st.

Any opinions what should I do?

 

Just a thought that came to mind, clogged cooler, cooler lines or dirty fluid. Try changing the fluid, flush the transmission cooler and lines. Can't hurt really, by changing the fluid there is a slight possibility or making the transmission faults more pronounced but with 122,000 miles you should be ok. Sounds to me like it is over heating or the fluid level is off.

 

it's done. you can do 1 of 3 things:

1. buy honda reman unit with all the updates
2. have a shop do it (search on Kennedy transmission) but do they have all the latest guides to do the job right?
3. J/Y trans (will it live long enough?)


or

4. swap a manual in there

 

never flush a auto tranny. if i were u, i would clean ur throttle body butterfly, change out pcv valve, clean iavc, egr valve and drain and refill all qts of tranny fluid.

 

Check your detent cable, make sure it's still attached. You do this by locating it, pulling up on the center of the line, then making sure it goes back down freely. If it isn't free or isn't tensioned, you know there's a problem.

You won't fry the trans immediatly by not having the detent cable attached but you will damage it.


Otherwise, after checking the above, do this:

Check your trans fluid.
http://www.adamstransmissionshop.com...luid_types.jpg
If it's worse than borderline, there's your problem. Changing for fresh fluid on a high mileage trans ususally kills it. (You change fluid at the regular intervals and apply this process, clutches will wear but never changing fluid is asking for clogged and blown valve body lines, at some point crap in there will build up). To fix the fluid, I find adding 2 tablespoons of seafoam to the car, running it in nuetral for awhile, then changing the fluid for a mix of 2/3rds old fluid and 1/3rd new fluid will help immensly. If the trans fluid is "Ok" or milk/opaque brown, you have radiator fluid mixing with your trans fluid. Trans is toast.

To get the car warm, idle it, place the shifter in nuetral, and set the parking brake. If the car is in park, the torque converter will not pump fluid through the trans and the trans will not get warm.

Shift the trans from nuetral to park a few times, then from D4 to Park, then from D3 to park, D2 to park, then D1 to park. Car should not leap during this time or double-thunk.

Place the shifter in 2nd gear, take it to 20MPH then shift it into 1st at 10 MPH then bring it back down to a complete stop. If it jerks around during this test at all, you know the trans is toast.

Check your torque converter lockup (Locks the trans to the engine at a 1:1 ratio) before you take it to the shop. The way you do this is take the car to 50+Mph (torque converter will lockup at 40+MPH) and tap the brake pedal; you should feel the car jerk a little; you can also hook a multimeter into your fuseblock and test that way. When the brakes are actuated, the torque converter lockup will disengague so when the car comes to a complete stop the engine doesn't stop with it. Failure points include the solenoid, brake pedal, fuseblock, wiring, and Trans control computer, and ECM. Another way to check is to take the car to 45MPH, then brake to 35MPH, over and over again; it should be smooth not rough, and engine RPM should act accordingly (not go waaaaaay up).

Usually it's the trans solenoid; replacing it is a driveway job and is a sinch. You drain the tranny fluid, remove the transmission fluid pan, and the solenoid is on the valve body outside; it's bolt and a few screws for wires and you're done.


Here's some advice from a guy who's lost some money doing trans repairs and replacements.

Go to your honda dealership, get a re-manufactured transmission from them. Everything in the trans is new, save for the bell housing; get a new Detent cable installed. It'll set you back some change, but it comes with a 3 year warranty and will last as long as the old one. Don't get one from some no-name shop unless it's been around for awhile and has a 10 year warranty, and don't go to autozone or some other place to get a trans because it's cheaper. If they quote you some outrageous price (like 5 grand), go to a few other dealerships; the larger dealerships tend to be more fair.

When Honda sells a transmission or engine, they make sure they have an authrozied service provider agreement with the remanufaturer; that means they're authorized to say "this trans is bad" and send it back and do a replacement, then bill the remanufacturer for parts plus labor. Say the trans goes and they do a replacement 2 years in, the replacement trans gets a 3 year warranty and you pay nothing. If you go to autozone and the trans goes bad, they'll say "oops, sorry, you have to call them on that and go to a garage shop" then you play games with the remanufacturer. "You took it to a garage shop and not a honda dealership? We need a honda dealership to say so."..."Oh you took it to that honda dealership, well we have blacklisted them so you need to go to another"..."Well that diagnostic isn't conclusive and we don't cover that kind of failure because it's due to hard driving"...etc etc etc.

 

Hey guys,
Just an update,
You where right the transmission is done.
It started slipping slightly and then it got worse if I drove more.
The funny thing is its still good when the car is cold and its good until 20 min of driving then it starts slipping very slightly hardly noticeable but it gets worse and after 30 min it gets really worse it even jerks when it goes to a stop.

Now the check engine light is on and D4 starts blinking.
But when the car is cold only the check engine is on.

Anyway the transmission is gone,
Went to the dealer they said the torque converter is failing,
They ask 2500$+tax to replace the tranny with 3 year/30000 warranty.
I got a quote from a shop, called all transmission world,
they ask 1575+tax with life time warranty on the transmission but 1 year/12K miles for labor.

Which one do you think I should go with,
I'm really short on money right now and this is tooo expensive.

Or should I go with a J/Y one and just sell the car?

 

Buying another vehicle will even costs more money depend what you're looking for in the car market plus insurance too. I would go for the dealership because their parts original not knock off and they have good servie and warranty.

 

i have the same problem...but my car only has 55k miles on it...trans at 55k....hmmm

 

Well,

The tranny from the shop its not really a knock off,
Its a rebuilt one and they give life time warranty on it, so if it brakes in a year the replacement is free but if it brakes in couple of years I only pay the labor.

definitely the dealer is better but its 1000$ more and I don't even have the money to pay the shop

the bad thing is the car got broke in a very short time and with this rate its not drivable in few more miles.

 

Hi Guyz,

I too have same Problem, first let me brief about my car

It Honda accord - v4, 2002. 112000 Km

I bought the car at 75k ,at that time the car not even had the transmission changed, when i went to get my oil change done in Mr Lube, The guy advised, since it is over 6 year and 7O k, need to change the transmission oil. So i got it done/

After 104000, I started to Observe jerk a bit(slipping from 1st to 2nd ) so i spoke to Mr lube guy , adviced to get the transmission oil changed, So got it done, To my Surprise, the jerking immediately stopped. I thought , I saved big bucks.

During the first time in the morning when the engine is cold, It will be soo good to drive and once i am on drive on highway and local around 30 minutes roughly, the gears starts to slip from 1st - 2nd (when the Speed is around 20- 30 km), when i apply the brakes, the car jerks( like rebound)

I went to one independent mech to get his view, He said, It might be a problem with a solenoid, which might be creating, so it can be fixed by aroung 250 -300 , so i asked him to check for colour of my transmission oil and level, he said, its good not to worry,

So, I dont know what to do ? should i try to change the transmission oil again, as i have already done around 10 k back.. or it might be problem with my transmission.

Sorry for long Letter.

Any advice will be great help .

Thanks in advance
Dare.