I have a 2001 Accord EX V6 with Honda Premium Rims from the factory on it; these models came with premium rims.

I need to do the brakes.

Do you need to remove the wheel nut as well as the 5 lugnuts to remove the tires?

Problem: I remove the 5 lugnuts and can't take the tire off. I pop the 2'' center cap; it looks like the wheel nut holds the wheel on as well as the 5 lugnuts. I turn the wheel, wheel nut moves, try to tug the wheel off and it won't budge; I can turn the steering column both ways. Next step is obviously a hammer to see if it is a friction fit or maybe seized up but I've worked on cars enough to know you research first. Search feature on the forum shows up with nada.

Anyone who's done wheel nuts on honda's knows that nut goes on with like 700 foot pounds.

 

that wheel nut is infact an "axle nut" ... you do not need to remove it ... take the 5 lugs off and give the tire a couple kicks around it to try to loosen it up ... i've personally never ran into this problem ... also wheel lugs have different torque specs depending on the size of the stud size ... just for kicks here is a link to some spec's:

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=107

 

I come from a background working on older V8 RWD GM cars. We call those wheel nuts pal; it wasn't till transaxles came about that the terms got gummed up.

I am infact one of those ******** that looks at their haynes manual to see if the lugnuts have torque specifications so the link is much appreciated.

Next weekend I'll give er' a few good swift kicks and break out the 5ib peen hammer. block o' wood and cloth.

Thanks! : - )

 

lol no prob. good luck ... by the way i love GM ... my 2 older brothers both have ls1 camaros ss ... i'm the outcast haha but i plan to get one ... one day

 

I have an 88 brougham in rough shape myself; baught the honda because I got burned on $2000 worth of automatic tranny repairs and needed a daily driver so I said ****it. 91-92 broughams are going on ebay every now and again, once I have the money banked I'm probably going to get one of them. I learned a lot of things on that car, like how to do emissions. (8 seperate systems, ~40 components, spaghetti wiring, yeah. Having a car that says "this sensor is burned sir" is a lot nicer).

I also have a buddy with an 81 GMC K 1500 pickup with 33'' mud tires on it. :D

There is a saying: Sports cars are prey, that is why they are fast and nimble.

 

want to do it the easy way? loosen lugs slightly and turn the wheel right to left a few times. That will break the rim away from the hub.

 

Tried again.

Loosened the lugnuts halfway, got one wheel loose with that steering wheel trick, the other one won't budge; tried the hammer, cloth and wood, tried cloth and prybar, no dice.

Inspected the one I got off; the brake dust works it's way in between the wheel and rotor, and due to heating/cooling cycles, water, salt, etc gets in there and bonds the two together.

Next time, I'll take it for a complete underbody/outerbody cleaning, then use brake cleaner and some bolt loosener spray, let it sit for awhile, and try again.

Go Figure, I get a new car to stop working on the demon of an old car I have and the new one does weird **** for fun to me. : - \

 

yuo only loosen the lugs 1 turn. it will work just start the car and turn wheels or slowly move forward turning the left and right

 

kick the shiz out of it dont be afraid lol. When time casts it's spells on your car you kick time in the Azz.

What are you afraid of? You think your entire axle or knuckle will break off? lol
If you spray some of that rust buster stuff back there the wheel will probably fall off lol

 

Had a buddy who rushed a brake job on a 90 honda accord lx. Broke a bolt on the front while taking a tire off by kicking his ratchet, then we tried PB Blaster and me (400 pound guy) jumping up and down on a breaker bar to try to get the wheel nut off and broke the breaker bar and the special 1 1/2 inch socket. Then we spent 4 hours with a dremel tool and air chizel, finally cracked the nut and got it off without damaging the threads, popped and installed 4 new bolts, got the whole works back together and what does he do? Breaks a bolt on the rear wheel with the same trick. Thankfully those are easier.

Sprayed the brakes down with anti-sieze, and we race from his garage to my house; he wins by a quarter block. The brakes are smoking; I burned up the anti sieze. That warped the rotors. 3 days of work getting a 15 minute brake job done and the brakes are toast because I'm being taught by a moron that doesn't know what he's doing.

I now use a 2 ft breaker bar when I do lugnuts and I go slooooow and drive the car for 30 minutes and 30 miles an hour and baby it for the first 100 or so miles.

Another good example; buddy and I are working on a 1981 GMC K1500 pickup. It has a massive oil leak coming from the timing chain cover. We have to pull the crankshaft pully, and he tries to put the pulley puller center support into the threading on the crankshaft. Had I not caught him and said "Bolt", he would've ended up damaging the crankshaft threads and the pulley would've never gone back in, ever. Would've sucked.

Turns out on that one the nylon camshaft sprocket coating wore down over time, allowing the timing chain to get loose and rub against the timing chain cover. Eventually it wore a gigantic hole and yeah. Bad. New performance chain, gears, cover, etc. Engine has so much blow-by we installed a heavy duty ignition coil and started using heavier oil. Thing still doesn't want to idle in cold weather until warm. Says something about the chevy 305. :D

I've seen a lot of mechanics do it the fast and furious way only to find out later on they screwed up some other part or broke something else accidentally. I don't like driving cars around with lugnuts loose, and I don't like wearing down a tire in one spot turning it from left to right to left to right (spent 10 minutes, full weight of car on that one side, no dice). I'll exhaust the chemical approach and the blowtorch before I start getting desperate, although the idea of using the extra large pulley puller I have does come to mind....

If your solution involves the inducing multiple high-speed impacts utilizing a blunt object, you are doing it wrong.

BTW, PB Blaster dissolves in brake cleaner.

 

True it's possible to fk things up but if you have to spay some pb blaster to help thats Ok. These are large threads here, so the rust effect should be less of a problem and PB would def help. GL