i just messed up my motor last night. i am pulling it out right now . but it got me thinking if i should use ls crank or keep my b18c5 crank?
it will be stock sleeve.. looking at 81.5mm bore.
i searched but couldnt really find much about it.. is it worth it to do this set up or no?
thanks alot

 

someone help

 

You'll need LS rods with an LS crank if planning to do so. To my understanding, you might also need to bend or trim the oil squirters to get sufficent clearance with the longer stroke. Now Search!

 

well since your motor is done and your going to rebuild it than yeah go with the ls crank and rods,then get some 82mm rs pistons to acheive a 1880cc or 83 more cc's over stock! if you ask me it aint worth it for the ones who have a healthy gsr but your is in need of work anyway soo why not? but yeah its more dissplacement for very cheap why shouldnt it be a good idea?

 

i want my motor to last longer.. and be able to rev to around 9000 without worrying about it so much

 

well don't go with stock ls rods

 

if fitted w/ arp bolts then why not?

 

so... ls crank.. and forged rod/pistons would do ??

 

sigh.... fyi your not sacrificing longetivity with a cast piston/ arp fitted ls rod.

 

even with ARP rod bolts those rods are weak

 

 

X2 agreed.

Extended trips to 9K can cause rod failure. The big end can go oval or the nut can back off. Those are two cases, I've witnessed.

 

I stand corrected.

I guess I have been lucky in the past.
But looking back ive never expected high mileage since I will usually switch to something else, but rarely due to a failure.

 

ls rods with arp bolts are fine just make sure you get a machine shop to install them......i would suggest notching them for gsr bearings though...

 

I have heard of cases of big end distortion happening and nuts backing off, I think I remember reading d-robs dads motor had this happen?

Whats strange is I know theres a good percent of us turning at least 9 or so on a prepared ls rod.

How common would you say these failures are?

 

stock rod bolts/LS rods All da WAY YO!
check out my sig, stock internal b twomp!

 

IF you're planning on using aftermarket rods, I wouldn't hesitate to put in an 89mm crank. That's about the ONLY way you'll be able to NOT lose any reliability.

Whether people have had failures using LS rods w/ stock bolts or w/ ARP bolts, it remains true that you DO give up rod strength when compared w/ stock GSR rods.

Best bet would be to use aftermarket rods.
If you can afford custom pistons, you can get some to allow you to use longer rods and recoup some Rod/Stroke ratio.
If not, just go w/ aftermarket LS/B20 Rods.

 

That failure seems to happen mainly to those that just put them in the engine and don't have the entire rotating assembling balanced and hung. I've my old road race car go 9000 rpms on a regular basis for years with that combination for just a tad more torque (for a honda, anyway)

The oil squirters are best removed, especially when using that crank, and aren't necessary on forged pistons anyway. A golden eagle oil squirter block kit will work fine.

I love mine, even for the street.





Sorry for the photos, but I like to show descriptions when I can.

 

oh man that is nice clean motor

 

We all know you're just a damn picture *****!!

 

Ok. So I'm a picture *****. I admit it. But I worked really hard on this motor..

 

Yeah....yeah....yeah. Looks good, too!

Doesn't change the fact that you're a complete pic *****! :-P

 

picture ***** or not the guy has a nice, I read the thread he had when he was building it, but I have a question, why do you recommend removing the squirters? why not just bend them? specially when using cast pistons like itr's?

 

I run an 89mm crank in my motor (B18C JDM) /w LS length rods and custom pistons with the wrist pin set high to keep the piston from smacking into the head.

I also have the LS rods notched to accept TypeR/B16 bearings.

I'm pretty sure to do this you will need either a custom piston or a custom length rod, the raised wrist pin piston being the better option because it give you a better rod ratio.

Just my 2c

 

i am looking to do the same build by using ls 89mm crank with ls eagle rods and 81.5mm 12.1 wiseco pistons in a type r block matted with pr3 head etc, i thought it would be a straight swap i didnt knew that like logg_frogg said it will need quite abit of custom work on them