do i need a press to install energy suspension bushings?
I search but this new system sucks! really i just need to know if i need to have the old bushings pressed out or if i can burn them out. i don't know if the outer metal sleeve gets reused. This is for a lower controll arm NOT the trailing arm.
Thanks
Thanks
Supposedly you can torch the rubber part of the old bushings out. You can also cut/drill them out or press them out via your own press (20 ton or more recommended) or a shop's press like Napa's. Then yes, the metal sleeve has to be removed, too. Here is a writeup: http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com...ion#bushremove
If you are going the press route, then IMO the more miles on the bushings and/or the more snow and salt in which they have been driven, the more you would need a 20-ton press.
Great way to search is to go to www.yahoo.com. In the search window, type in: [your keywords] site:honda-tech.com
If you are going the press route, then IMO the more miles on the bushings and/or the more snow and salt in which they have been driven, the more you would need a 20-ton press.
Great way to search is to go to www.yahoo.com. In the search window, type in: [your keywords] site:honda-tech.com
Yes you have to remove the metal sleeve after burning them out. (a sawzall works great for this)
I did this to mine because i did not have access to a press.
What was said above is correct.
You will remove the entire bushing including the metal sleeve for the lower control arms.
This is explained in the instructions that comes with the Energy Suspension kit.
I recently did this with the Master kit from energy. I followed a method similar to the ones shown in the links above.
Assuming all parts are already removed from vehicle:
Step 1: Apply torch to center of bushing and burn out as much rubber as possible.
Step 2: Press out center sleeve (fortunately I had access to a 20ton)
Step 3: Burn/scrape out remainder of rubber
Step 4: Take sawzall or hacksaw and cut through the outer sleeve
Step 5: Use a flathead screwdriver/chisel and hammer to crush the metal sleeve (So that the sleeve forms into a capital 'G' )
Step 6: Use pliers or large wire cutters to grapple the sleeve and turn/push it out of the control arm
Step 7: clean up the inside of the control arm with emery paper/scotch bright/PB blaster or whatever gets it clean and smooth
Step 8: use Energy suspension supplied grease on bushing halves and supplied sleeves and press in By hand first and finish by using a Bench Vise
Done
Note:burning out bushings gets messy- wearing gloves is a good idea
You will remove the entire bushing including the metal sleeve for the lower control arms.
This is explained in the instructions that comes with the Energy Suspension kit.
I recently did this with the Master kit from energy. I followed a method similar to the ones shown in the links above.
Assuming all parts are already removed from vehicle:
Step 1: Apply torch to center of bushing and burn out as much rubber as possible.
Step 2: Press out center sleeve (fortunately I had access to a 20ton)
Step 3: Burn/scrape out remainder of rubber
Step 4: Take sawzall or hacksaw and cut through the outer sleeve
Step 5: Use a flathead screwdriver/chisel and hammer to crush the metal sleeve (So that the sleeve forms into a capital 'G' )
Step 6: Use pliers or large wire cutters to grapple the sleeve and turn/push it out of the control arm
Step 7: clean up the inside of the control arm with emery paper/scotch bright/PB blaster or whatever gets it clean and smooth
Step 8: use Energy suspension supplied grease on bushing halves and supplied sleeves and press in By hand first and finish by using a Bench Vise
Done
Note:burning out bushings gets messy- wearing gloves is a good idea
I just did this on one of the mounts... Stinky is putting it lightly. but SO worth it ! I drilled holes through the rubber first with a 1/4" so less burning would be needed, took about 40 seconds of burning.. Awesome write-up
Ok this might help some of you.. When i did the es master kit i used a snap on master ball joint tool.. Its pretty much a big c clamp with different sleeves and races.. This is not an affordable tool for the average diy person but some of you may know some mechanics.. I did zero torching and it actually made the whole bushing dilemma simple.. I did break one of the sleeves that was previously cracked but hey snap on is lifetime warranty.. Just thought id throw that out there..
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Ok this might help some of you.. When i did the es master kit i used a snap on master ball joint tool.. Its pretty much a big c clamp with different sleeves and races.. This is not an affordable tool for the average diy person but some of you may know some mechanics.. I did zero torching and it actually made the whole bushing dilemma simple.. I did break one of the sleeves that was previously cracked but hey snap on is lifetime warranty.. Just thought id throw that out there..
Is that "bjp1" that you mean ?
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