I have read in a few forums that Brenbo brakes with cross vented holes are not drilled but they are cast that way. Has anyone heard of this and how can you tell if they are actually cast and not drilled?

 

it would actually be better if they were cast that way,. then you wouldn't have them cracking like they do. so they must be drilled

 

Who has actually seen a rotor crack? I've had drilled/slotted rotors for 5 years. They are flawless.

 

i have seen a few. there is no reason to run drilled or slotted rotors, other than looks

 

And what were the brands? What were the conditions in which the rotor was driven? I highly doubt it was on a non-track vehicle.

 

they all crack, and if they don't you aren't driving them hard enough and don't need them anyways

 

That's complete bullshit.

 

There's no reason to get drilled rotors. Go to autozone and pick up a pair and you'll get the lifetime warranty too.

 

nice retort

 

So I guess no one knows the answer to my question?

for those saying you do not really need cross drilled, your comments has been heard & noted. The bottom line is that this is not a race car nor am I out to put the very best performing anything on this. I am doing ti for looks. Just like many other thigns I have done on my 4th generation. The car has been out of circulation for years. if it was about having the best of the best, I would have gotten the mewest of the new by now. What I want is the best prelude for me. What is right for me is how nice a set of zinc coated cross-drilled and slotted rotors will look. Just like the how I like the power folding mirrors I have on my car and the fully operation JDM climate control I have.

 

me too...I have actually done some research and the cross drilling helps cool them faster when you are using them alot...like say stoplight-to-stoplight...I also have the vented cross drilled Brembo rotors and I love the way they look behind my Buddy Club SFs with Legend 2 piston calipers and SS brake lines....2 each his own and do whacha like to your car...remember when someone makes a snide comment they are just doing they're job as a hater! I need some more haters, so hate on me!

 

hate, hate, hate

 

I've had mine for a year, plus the 2 years the prev. owner had them on. No cracks so far. And they look good.

 

My rotors are cracked pretty bad. They aren't drilled or slotted but they're still pretty unhappy parts. If you want I can get a pic tomorrow.

Pirate

 

Simple way to solve this, use the following equation... it's quite mathematical...

(Weight * how hard you drive * power * how hard you stop) ^ (how much you want to end up the guy in front of you's tail pipe) = how much you don't need cross drilled rotors

- Corey

PS. This comes due to MLBZ521 and I conversing on AIM... primarily about conversion to 5 lug on a 4th gen... and this thread came up...

 

What are the units of measure for "how hard you drive" and "how hard you stop?" Are they percentages? Will metric units work?

I've never considered the units for the 4th term: "I brake when I see God" ≠ real number. Perhaps it can be ∆ speed from a given speed down to a fraction thereof.

I've never been in the guy-in-front-of-me's tailpipe and it would be an interesting experience so if it's another percentage scale I can't say that it's 0%. Zero is a really really small number. I agree that it's unlikely that I want to be in anyone's tailpipe but there's a possibility that I'd be a wiser person after having done so just once. So lets call it 1 in a million chance.

I got a 1225kg car, I drive 110%, I have 164KW engine, ∆ speed (58m/s -> 31m/s)*, .000001 chance I want to be up a person's tailpipe gives us:

((1225)*(1.1)*(164)*(27))^.0.000001 = 1.00000156

So what is 1.00000156? If it's a probability then it's more than 100% that I don't need drilled/slotted rotors. Any further insight on interpretation of your formula? :D haha

* - ∆ speed is track specific.

 

I always love a good/intellectual smartass response to a braindead post.

(I'm curious where you found the "not equal to" symbol and the delta.)

Extra decimal point.

 

I found them on the keyboard. you just have to find the right sized hammer and it will make it the way you want.

oops. I knew I should have carried the two. .


Here is a front rotor on my 'Lude at the moment.
They are about toast. For the record there's absolutely no reason you should have to "upgrade" your rotors for street duty. The track is what abuses the poor rotors.



If my opinion is not enough then take it from Corey Jacobs (Honda318dx), longtime H1 Prelude road racer:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=645343

 

I have the drilled/slotted rotors for 2 reasons:

First, I love the look.
Second, I get suspension parts at cost. I paid ~$75 for all 4 rotors (new). Retail is over $400.

I agree with Honda318dx to an extent. Tires and pads are all that's required for normal street use. I don't drive like everyone else. To me, city streets are just a big track. I don't do 80mph in school zones or anything stupid like that. Just 0 to speed limit in under 6 seconds and take all turns as fast as possible. Basically, the way a good driver would get from Point A to Point B as if they were late for work but still didn't want a ticket.

I've never tried Hawk pads. I use Raybestos ceramics (paid $6-7 per set) and love them.

 

I wasn't criticising you. you don't have to explain yourself to me. I just figured that I'd combine the posts. If it's the look you're looking for then more power to you.

Just pointing out that from a practical standpoint they aren't needed. Personally I maintian that no matter how you drive on the street you will never subject your brake pads, fluid and rotors to the excesses of bonafide track.

 

Indeed... I did not take the units into consideration... and definitely a good show. ( ;

As for units...

Weight = while kg is definitely more universally acceptable, lbs is what I'm used to, but that would just be a factor of ~2.2...
How Hard You Drive = Not sure how to rate that... I mean... I would think it would be a measure of how much over the speed limit you're doing in any area with traffic...
Power = Horsepower as the standard, again, I'm from the states... multiply by conversion factor for kW...
How Hard You Stop = 100 - time spent braking in seconds...
How Much You Want to End Up the Guy in Front of You's Tail Pipe = technically this is just being a real smart *** and not a mathematical quantity at all... heh heh.
How Much You Don't Need Cross Drilled Rotors = To be honest, the only reason cross drills are needed are in cases of extreme use and abuse, such as track (really only as track), practically speaking, the additional heat dissipation is wonderful, except each drilled hole experiences 3 times the stress as the rest of the does (perpendicular to the application of stress) and therefore is much more likely to develop cracks, hence their shorter life span. At the same time, the better heat dissipation means the brakes don't fade as quickly, also supplemented by a change in materials, such as to ceramic rotors. Also... if you're going to be running cross drilled, because you drive hard enough to warrant it, chances are you should also be providing them proper air.

O_o?

Make a smart *** answer... sometimes you get a smart *** reply...

- Corey

 

haha

 

Pffft, if your going to make a smart reply at least be smart about it...

You can't mix Imperial and Metric units, and every good scientist/engineer uses SI units anyways.

 

If you read my response...

You would realize that I was basing my figures off Imperial , not SI units, simply because when discussing cars in terms of power output and weight I personally have a better concept of what figures of horsepower, torque, and weight are in Imperial units, and less so in SI. At the same rate, I'm far more comfortable dealing with displacement in SI than Imperial. Matter of personal preference. At the same rate I included the factor for conversion from kg to lbs (1 kg =~2.2 lbs) because I know that one off the top of my head.

And you most certainly can mix SI and Imperial... though it's not suggested... it just requires you to keep track of which information is in which, and require you to do unit conversation calculation, not efficient, but easily doable with anyone with half a brain and who is paying attention.

- Corey

 

Um.....is it just me-or do these two need to get a room? PirateMooncaller = Crash and Burn
LOL I crack myself up!!!!!!!!