JDM swap durability
I'm debating whether to rebuild mine (engine and some parts in the trans) to the clearances I want or to just swap in a JDM motor. Doing a stock rebuild- without cutting any corners- will cost quite a bit more than just a swap. So what I'd like to know from you guys is how your JDM engines and trans' have held up, with good maintenance. Please only give your input if you're the first owner of the swap.
1. How miles driven since you've had it.
2. Does your engine burn oil if you don't use vtec? Burns oil in vtec? How much?
3. Do any gears grind?
1. How miles driven since you've had it.
2. Does your engine burn oil if you don't use vtec? Burns oil in vtec? How much?
3. Do any gears grind?
Last edited by vinuneuro; Mar 29, 2009 at 11:20 AM.
I've put close to 90k on my JDM swap
rarely burns oil from vtec, I'd say half a qt every couple weeks
3rd gear has slight grind when I got it and has been getting worse since
rear main seal going out
I take immaculate care/maintinance on my motor.
buy a Euro R and get the T2w4 trans with it..
rarely burns oil from vtec, I'd say half a qt every couple weeks
3rd gear has slight grind when I got it and has been getting worse since
rear main seal going out
I take immaculate care/maintinance on my motor.
buy a Euro R and get the T2w4 trans with it..
I had my swap done last summer.. Only put 3,000 miles on it so far.. But it was stolen over XMas.. It was recovered, but I can't really drive it yet, need to fix somethings that were damaged through all the mess (another story)...
But even after mine was stolen it still runs good and has full oil.
It was like a 1/4cm below the top dot when it was freshly swapped in and now it's 1/4cm above the bottom dot..
And this is with a lot of spirited driving.. I've been enjoying the switch from the H23A1, and having a bit of trouble controlling the fun I have with it..
Also, a built transmission was swapped in at the same time (Not JDM) with a 4.7 Final Drive, so she loves the upper RPMs..
I'm happy with it.. Scott (2point6) did the swap and said it fired up the first time just fine. And only problem we had with it was the timing belt ripped to shreds in less than a 100 miles, and it was a new one.. After looking at the belt we figured it was defective.
But even after mine was stolen it still runs good and has full oil.
It was like a 1/4cm below the top dot when it was freshly swapped in and now it's 1/4cm above the bottom dot..
And this is with a lot of spirited driving.. I've been enjoying the switch from the H23A1, and having a bit of trouble controlling the fun I have with it..

Also, a built transmission was swapped in at the same time (Not JDM) with a 4.7 Final Drive, so she loves the upper RPMs..
I'm happy with it.. Scott (2point6) did the swap and said it fired up the first time just fine. And only problem we had with it was the timing belt ripped to shreds in less than a 100 miles, and it was a new one.. After looking at the belt we figured it was defective.
I have owned my Prelude about 4 years now. It had a JDM H22A from Hmotorsonline swapped about 3 months before I bought the car. Switched it to Royal Purple on the first oil change and that is every 3000 miles. I have put about 45,000 miles or so. A few trips to the local drag strip and very abusive right foot almost daily.It sees redline daily. It does use some oil. About 1 quart per oil change.I also had to replace 3rd gear soon after I bought the car, the transmission I believe is the original 92 Si unit. It should have about 220,000 miles by now. I cannot verify exactly the miles because my gay g cluster was swapped out for one from a 94 with 104,000 on it when it went into my car.Anyway, always heard good **** about hmotorsonline so I say get the swap and just rebuild your current unit as you have the time to do it.
I've put close to 90k on my JDM swap
rarely burns oil from vtec, I'd say half a qt every couple weeks
3rd gear has slight grind when I got it and has been getting worse since
rear main seal going out
I take immaculate care/maintinance on my motor.
buy a Euro R and get the T2w4 trans with it..
rarely burns oil from vtec, I'd say half a qt every couple weeks
3rd gear has slight grind when I got it and has been getting worse since
rear main seal going out
I take immaculate care/maintinance on my motor.
buy a Euro R and get the T2w4 trans with it..
My tranny seems to have no grinds though thankfully. We'll see how it all pans out, i've only had it running since august. Overall i'd recommend just going JDM.
yeah, definitely go with a JDM swap, and check into the Euro R depending on what your goals are, the transmission alone is what you need though. people seem to overlook gearing far too often.
you can get a low mileage h22 longblock for 1100 shipped vs full oem rebuild ??
you can get a low mileage h22 longblock for 1100 shipped vs full oem rebuild ??
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very well said
making power is all well and good but gearing will win you the race in the end
to the op: i have had 2 jdm motors so far :
one blew within 5000km of owning it...ran good till i seafomed it (never seafome
) i kept loosing oil pressure after the seafome and a honda without oil pressure is as reliable as a kia...i probably was a bit too hard on her also
the other has been running strong after 80000km on it...doesnt burn a drop of oil
making power is all well and good but gearing will win you the race in the end
to the op: i have had 2 jdm motors so far :
one blew within 5000km of owning it...ran good till i seafomed it (never seafome
) i kept loosing oil pressure after the seafome and a honda without oil pressure is as reliable as a kia...i probably was a bit too hard on her alsothe other has been running strong after 80000km on it...doesnt burn a drop of oil
1. about 18XXX miles.
2. one time, i didn't do an oil change for 5 months, 8000 miles, vtec a few times a week, only burned maybe a quart [ i was really lazy ]
3. what 5th grind? XD
2. one time, i didn't do an oil change for 5 months, 8000 miles, vtec a few times a week, only burned maybe a quart [ i was really lazy ]
3. what 5th grind? XD
I've had mine for over 4 years now and run the living crap out of it every day and have never had an issue out of it. Yeah it may burn oil but all h22 do when your in the vtec range like I am all of the time.
I had mine for about 12K and it never gave me a single problem. Then I ran through some water and blew the block. I think they are extreamly durable as long as you dont add water where it shouldnt be.
'00 accord motor
15k
Fresh timing belt, front bs seal retainer installed (that's all)
oil burn on a thicker weight 30 is not too bad. several thousand k per liter.
No issues at this time...
15k
Fresh timing belt, front bs seal retainer installed (that's all)
oil burn on a thicker weight 30 is not too bad. several thousand k per liter.
No issues at this time...
ive had mine for about half a year and it burned through mobil 1 quite a bit but then i swapped to amsoil and havent burned a drop since, and thats 10k change intervals on this oil!!!!
I have a H22A from Japan Direct out of Raleigh NC. It has been 2 years and 20,000 miles or so. Ran Amsoil from the moment I got it, and it runs through at most half a quart every 5,000. This engine is solid so far, and I tach it out almost every day. I replaced all the oil seals when I got it also, no leaks so far.
The trans came with some minor synchro wear (M2A4), but once I put in the newer Honda MTF it has been smooth shifting. No problems to speak of out of it.
The trans came with some minor synchro wear (M2A4), but once I put in the newer Honda MTF it has been smooth shifting. No problems to speak of out of it.
15 k on my motor before it blew up! But I have another one much better quailty swapped in now. Burnt 1 quart of oil every oil change. And I hit Vtec everyday, at every red light, tough engine!
I say go for the swap, unless your rebuild accuracy is dead on.
I say go for the swap, unless your rebuild accuracy is dead on.
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