Are these any good? I don't any problems to running something like this that is cheap. I cant see anything breaking:

Link - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-01...Q5fAccessories

 

I thought the same thing. I installed these with my other suspension mods and got it aligned right away. That was like 2 months ago. I just bought a rear disc conversion so i started taking rear suspension back apart... the bushings with the rods through them are totally blown out.

I haven't had any problems with the fronts, but the guy at the alignment place said that he maxed their movement one way to get it straight.

I am now looking into getting some higher quality stuff. I think the other type of front adjustment (full arms) allow much better movement. And hopefully some for the rear for better bushings, since i am guessing that i wont be able to find replacements that fit.

 

I bought something similar to these off ebay. I've had them on the car for maybe 3 years or so? They got the car aligned perfectly and they've been fine for me...

 

my ebay rear camber kit bushings went bad in 4 months

 

Unless you want to add more negative camber for competition purposes, an Integra has no need for camber kits. In fact, the front ones only further reduce what little suspension travel is left after lowering.

Save the money, skip the ebay kits.

 

Ill be lowering it about 2.5" F and 2" R. How can avoiding a front camber kit be good for the tires? When I dropped my civic like an inch, the inner tires were bald after the summer.

 

as far as it goes i would trust some of the cheap ebay goods but then again not, ive seen people purchase springs and ended up having steel as stiff as the chassis it self, then i seen people purchase headers that really gave out that extra horse power and great looks, so its a 50/50 chance if you do go for it let me know in the near future how it turned out.

 

That's because you didn't get an alignment. If you did, it was a shoddy tech doing the work. Your tires wore down due to out-of-spec toe out, which is easily corrected with a simple, good 4-wheel alignment.

Several people here including myself have been running NO camber kits for YEARS and have never had significant tire wear issues.

Skip the camber kits, and use the money for a good 4-wheel alignment. You'll be better off that way, and the car will handle better with the increased negative camber.

 

those busshings look horrible

 

im not sure about all that about not having a camber kit cuz im going those the same problem since i lower my car and my car i mount and balance my tires and they did my aglinment to my car and still i get that inner tires wear out... i dont know my drop but i change just my spring to neo speed sport.... so im thinking of getting a camber kit unless u can tell me what else to do

 

If you look at the geometry of the upper A arm, there is no way you can lower your car without a camber kit. Even an alignment wont help as there is nothing on the stock A arm to adjust camber... I did get an alignment, btw, and they said I was 1.5* out. The said the only way to fix it was to get a camber kit. I didn't listen, because I found that some people here were not using camber kits, and by fall my tires were hooped.

Now, this isn't a question of if I should get one. It's a question of are the Ebay kits any good. Sometimes you can win huge on Ebay. Back on topic...

 

"If you look at the geometry of the upper A arm, there is no way you can lower your car without a camber kit."

How the hell did you come up with that conclusion? The only reason for a camber kit is to have the adjustability for specific settings like for a track alignment.


If your tire wear is uneven, it's because your TOE is off. Maybe that's what they meant at the shop when they said 1.5* 'out'. That's why you adjust the tie rods and have them set to 1/32" toe out in the front and you should see little, if any, uneven tire wear. Camber doesn't kill tires, TOE does. If your alignment guy tells you otherwise, he's a moron and you should take your car elsewhere.

 

"Since street suspensions cannot completely compensate for the outer tire tipping towards the outside when the vehicle leans in a corner, there isn't a magical camber setting that will allow the tires to remain vertical when traveling straight down the road (for more even wear), and remain perpendicular to the road during hard cornering (for more generous grip).

Different driving styles can also influence the desired camber angle as well. An enthusiastic driver who corners faster than a reserved driver will receive more cornering grip and longer tire life from a tire aligned with more negative camber. However with the aggressive negative camber, a reserved driver's lower cornering speeds would cause the inside edges of the tires to wear faster than the outside edges.

What's the downside to negative camber? Negative camber leans both tires on the axle towards the center of the vehicle. Each tire develops an equal and offsetting "camber thrust" force (the same principle that causes a motorcycle to turn when it leans) even when the vehicle is driven straight ahead. If the vehicle encounters a bump that only causes one tire to lose some of its grip, the other tire's negative camber will push the vehicle in the direction of the tire that lost grip. The vehicle may feel more "nervous" and become more susceptible to tramlining. Excessive camber will also reduce the available straight-line grip required for rapid acceleration and hard stops.

Appropriate camber settings that take into account the vehicle and driver's aggressiveness will help balance treadwear with cornering performance. For street-driven vehicles, this means that tire wear and handling requirements must be balanced according to the driver's needs. The goal is to use enough negative camber to provide good cornering performance while not requiring the tire to put too much of its load on the inner edge while traveling in a straight line. Less negative camber (until the tire is perpendicular to the road at zero camber) typically will reduce the cornering ability, but results in more even wear.

Even though they have some of the most refined suspensions in the world, the next time you see a head-on photo of a Formula 1 car or CART Champ Car set up for a road course, notice how much negative camber is dialed into the front wheels. While this is certainly an example of wear not being as important as grip, negative camber even helps these sophisticated racing cars corner better."

This is where this quote is from http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...e.jsp?techid=4

The only morons in this discussion are those who do not do their research.

Camber is only good for tracking due to the high speed cornering. It would not be called camber wear if it was due to improper toe.

Now back to the original question... If I was you I would stick with a reputable brand name because it may be cheap at first but knock off parts can end up being costly...
just search google there are plenty of sites that offer camber packages