So i dropped my 97 Accord EX to the ground about 1.5 inches and i had pretty bad camber issues. I have now installed Ingalls Adjustable Front Upper Control Arm Mounts (see site below). It helps a bunch but has anyone ever used these before? I have the camber pretty well set back to where it should be, but the first few times i torqued everything down it didn't stay where i wanted and threw the camber way off again.

Any suggestions on what i should do with them or if i need a better part?
I have Megan Racing camber arms coming on Monday.
Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks!


http://www.ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=35176
http://www.prostreetonline.com/s/sus...camber-kit.asp

p.s. please go easy this is my first post (noob here...)

 

What were you camber specs before you corrected them? You also need to make sure the toe is set to 0.

It seems as though balljoint camber kits last longer than the anchor bolt style. I am actually lowering my car on Friday so maybe i'll figure something out then.

Good luck!

 

On my car it was weird on the camber before. My parents had the car before i did and my mom had curbed it really hard and screwed up some stuff. My bro was rear-ended and it screwed up the frame. So the camber on the passenger side was off and it was needing new control arms to fix. The rest were within reasonable range. I think they were all less than half a degree off. So now i have the mounts in and so far they have worked pretty well.

Your lowering your Accord? Are you doing it yourself? If so, you have to remove the entire trunk lining and part of the back seat. Its not too bad. I did that part successfully so if i can help in any way let me know.

 

Yeah, I am lowering it Friday.

I have both the 1.5- +3 and -1.5- +1.5 kit but dont know which one i'll need 4 a 2inch drop in the front.

How do you remove the trunk lining? And which part of the backseat? I am assuming the vertical parts between the door and the part that folds down.

 

I For the front your most likely going to need the 1.5-+3 one. I had a 1.5 inch drop and was able to make a -.75-+1 kit work, but it barely reaches the correct camber. I think your -1.5-+1.5 should be fine for the back.

To remove the lining:
First remove all things from the trunk (subwoofers/crap/ect) Remove the floor peice. It should just slide out no problem. Take out both the left and right covers over the taillights and jack. Take the jack out. Then there are two push clips (one per side) that need to be popped out. A flat head screwdriver works pretty well. After that move to the back seat and fold down the seat. The plastic sections just behind the seat need to come out. They are held in by one clip and one push clip, just as in the trunk. After these too plastic peices are removed you can pull the side linings out and set them aside. By this time you can see where the top of the shocks are at and the seat piece right in front of that needs to be loosened. It just pops up at the top and then you can bend it outta your way.

I hope this is clear enough.
Let me know if you have more questions and let us know how it goes!

 

IDK about your camber issue. If anything, bring it to the alignment shop and let them deal with it and maybe they can tell you what's wrong.

As for the rear, I didn't remove the whole back lining. Too much trouble IMO. I remove the backrest of the back seat took out the black triangle shaped panels. Removed the metal "triangle" part (Lots of bolts but worth it) then now you have access to the strut mounting bolts. This was on my coupe, not sure on sedan... Maybe/should be the same.

 

I have the +1.5-+3 degree Ingalls balljoint camber kit now, and the -1.5-+1.5 is being shipped. BOTH are for the front...... So idk, we'll see.

Thanks for the trunk advice! Yeah, I have subs and those will be a PITA to get out.

Ill let ya know how it goes!

 

You say your camber was thrown off after adjusting it. Do you mean the nuts that hold the adjustments in place have moved? And by doing so the threads that allow you to adjust things have probably vibrated loose, throwing off your camber. If this is the case, you need to get some permatex thread locker. You put a few drops on the threads before you tighten the nuts to keep the adjustments locked in place. Its like mild superglue. I use the blue thread locker.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ocker_BLUE.htm

 

Removing the subwoofers and then the trunk lining or whatnot.

 

Got it! I was easy

ready now 4 installation 2morrow!

 

Wow. Started @ 3 w/ a few car guys and still were not done @ 9:30.

The front is completely done. The rear is the biggest PITA ever. The single bolts @ the bottom of the strut are so corroded they wont come out. It has taken over 1.5 hours to get the bolt out of one side using a dremel and saw all.