apekd's All Motor D16Z6 build
Figure I would post up my motor build on here as there are some smart people browsing these threads that may be able to lend a hand with some of this.
Motor:
D16Z6
Internals:
Z6 crank (Own)
Pm7 Pistons (Own)
PM7 rods (Own)
Head:
Crower Stage 2 street cam (need)
Crower Valve Springs (need)
Crower Retainers (need)
Crower OEM Vavles (need)
Misc parts:
ARP head studs (need)
ACL bearings (need)
ARP Flywheel Bolts (need)
ARP Pressure plate bolts (need)
ACT HC4-SPSS Clutch kit (need!!!)
On to some pics of the head, block and components!
PM7 pistons (pulled from a DOHC ZC)

Z6 head


block


Crank

Just a picture to get me motivated every day at the junkyard

Im planing on having the motor be a 8-9K redline, and thinking of a way to make a powerband that goes that high. I hope that with that head package, and the high compression ill be able to compish that. Any help, insights, or opinions are welcome.
Motor:
D16Z6
Internals:
Z6 crank (Own)
Pm7 Pistons (Own)
PM7 rods (Own)
Head:
Crower Stage 2 street cam (need)
Crower Valve Springs (need)
Crower Retainers (need)
Crower OEM Vavles (need)
Misc parts:
ARP head studs (need)
ACL bearings (need)
ARP Flywheel Bolts (need)
ARP Pressure plate bolts (need)
ACT HC4-SPSS Clutch kit (need!!!)
On to some pics of the head, block and components!
PM7 pistons (pulled from a DOHC ZC)

Z6 head


block


Crank

Just a picture to get me motivated every day at the junkyard

Im planing on having the motor be a 8-9K redline, and thinking of a way to make a powerband that goes that high. I hope that with that head package, and the high compression ill be able to compish that. Any help, insights, or opinions are welcome.
you will want a lot bigger cam than the crower 2 for high rpm. Crower 3 is a good start but will peak short of your goal. might want to look into something custom from Bisi. It will take a lot more modification for a D series to make power/be safe up that high. you will also need to address your engine's ability to breathe.
arp rod bolts minimum for considerably higher then stock redline. Honestly you are asking for trouble with stock rods going up as high as your thinking.
one other thing, the pistons/rods look pretty beat up, make sure to have them measured before going any further.
m.
arp rod bolts minimum for considerably higher then stock redline. Honestly you are asking for trouble with stock rods going up as high as your thinking.
one other thing, the pistons/rods look pretty beat up, make sure to have them measured before going any further.
m.
Last edited by marcin; Mar 28, 2009 at 06:51 AM.
thanks.
Well I have to have the pistons pulled off anyways as i am getting them all balanced. ill make sure that the rods get checked out as well.
Stgae 3 cam? really? I mean, even if its a 8K redline I dont mind, but stage 3? woh! lol I already know that a P&P can really open it up. I already plan on that, But do you think that a stage 2 would work for for the amount that I am looking forward to?
I forgot about the rod bolts lol I have a set on hold, just gotta get some more money to pick them up. Thanks for you insights on this man.
Well I have to have the pistons pulled off anyways as i am getting them all balanced. ill make sure that the rods get checked out as well.
Stgae 3 cam? really? I mean, even if its a 8K redline I dont mind, but stage 3? woh! lol I already know that a P&P can really open it up. I already plan on that, But do you think that a stage 2 would work for for the amount that I am looking forward to?
I forgot about the rod bolts lol I have a set on hold, just gotta get some more money to pick them up. Thanks for you insights on this man.
search around for build D series dynos with a crower 3 cam. There are at least a few. You will see they don't peak that late.
stages with cams don't really mean anything.
what are you doing for a intake manifold & header?
m.
stages with cams don't really mean anything.
what are you doing for a intake manifold & header?
m.
i would replace the pistons, When i built my single cam i used some used Pm7 pistons as well and ended up having a ring land failure. No signs of detonation. Besides replacement Pm7 pistons are cheap and will be well worth the replacement. if there is the slightest scratch in any of those pistons they will be prone to having a hot spot.
i would replace the pistons, When i built my single cam i used some used Pm7 pistons as well and ended up having a ring land failure. No signs of detonation. Besides replacement Pm7 pistons are cheap and will be well worth the replacement. if there is the slightest scratch in any of those pistons they will be prone to having a hot spot.
thanks for the help guys.
I would replace with new pistons and go with maybe a 75.5mm or 76mm.. With an open deck block, cylinders tend to get "Out of Round." More leak down = loss in hp. I wish I had done that with my last build. Good luck with the build though.
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pm'd you btw SOHCinWA
+1 Do it right the first time or you will regret it down the road.
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spun Vtec
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