Ok here we go

1. I started my turbo honda adventure over a year ago with buying a complete setup from a shop thats a complete drive train/menagement the works down to axles. That setup did pretty well 373/290 on 91 octane@14psi. Drove it home 120 miles woke up the next day was heading down the highyway and wammo stripped the retaining bolt right out the rod through the morroso oil pan. Had a flickering oil light at idle.

2. Buy a new block do all new internals have the head cleaned up tuned made 355/272 91 octane@14psi. Drive it home 2 days later start it up drive 3 miles down the road and wammo drop 4 valves in the #4 cylinder. Oil light was still flickering.

3. Buy a new head, bore 84mm, new internals, day of import face off they start it at 6:30am at the shop and its making a back ticking noise. Well the intake manifold still had metal in it and sucked it right up into the motor. Oil light still flickers.

4. well here we go 84.5mm bore, clean head up, new internals of course, car made 404/267 on 91 octane@17psi. oil light is still flickering. I want to do an E85 tune so i go back to my shop, and set it up well there is a clicking noise from the engine you can easily tell its metal on metal. I say ok enough is enough i want to stop, and see whats up. Well pull the pan off and the bearing are bad. Have the crank micropolished, and new bearings they stick it on the dyno my tuner says wait a minute oil light is still flickering. They pull figure out its getting about 10psi of oil pressure. Pull the morroso oil pan off, change the pump, do an OEM pan, and still oil light is still flickering.

with all these parts being changed out, and bought new does anyone have any idea of what it could be now. Im confused, and out about 23k in the last year, and im tired of all of the madness going on here. It is obviouse that the issue has been lack of oil pressure leading the the demise of 3 really descent engine so far.

So oil squirters maybe??????????

 

20 reviews and noone has any opinions on this at all

besides I need a new shop lol

 

You need to pull the motor & take it all apart. Sounds like someone is just tightening down bolts to a guesstamating figure??? Bearings can't be just thrown in without clearances & rod bolts dont just back out if torqued down. Also never start without new oem belts, pumps, etc.
I say unfortunately just find a good builder here & send your motor out & get it done right once & for all. Also a healthy stock gsr will yeild those numbers with a good tune while your building. Good luck.

 

agreed the first engine was a setup i bought from a car the guy didnt want anymore that was a costly mistake by me purchased through the shop who didnt feel responsible.

The thing thats getting me is it still has the same fault it has always had all the builds, and or blocks have had the oil light wich I now know has been low oil pressure the whole time. I was thinking the oil squirters have been transferred from build to build, and that would be the key to the problems.

bearings cant be thrown, but what abut them not getting the amount of oil they require. The #1 bearing was just ratteling around like it wasnt done correctly.

The shop I use I think are some awsome guys, but im starting to think very negatively on them wich sux.

 

have you checked to make sure the screen in the oil pickup isnt clogged , have you checked to see if you have the oil control orifice in the block and also the one in the head , missing either orifice will result in barely any oil pressure , and of coarse if the oil pick up is clogged well you know hah , check those 3 things

 

^^^ Agreed with the above. You also really need to find a good builder. Either you're the most unlucky honda guy around or whoever is wrenchin on your engine isnt the most adept.

On a side note, if you are having oil pressure issues the title of your thread should reflect that. If you resolve your issue and someone else has the same problem this thread will not come up in a search (even though it seems to me the search is really horrible now as you get hits for a great number of threads that have absolutely nothing to do with your search) so someone down the road will not gain the benefit of your experience. Just something to think about. GL.

 

gotcha will change the title

it has a new oil pump/pan/pick up on it

the head was checked out for flow and is good.

at idle the oil light flickers alot, and when on the throttle it doesnt, but it doesnt build the amount of pressure it should be. It was checked with a oil pressure gage last week, and read 10psi they thought the gage was jacked up so it was checked on another car and it worked perfectly.

the things that is killing me is 2 blocks now and 4 seperate builds this has been an issue so if the oil squirters were swapped from block to block couldnt this very well be whats causing it

 

like i said there is 1 oil control orifice in the head and one in the block iam not reffering to oil squiters ,there different parts . so it dont matter if you use 100 different blocks if you continue to use the same head and its missing that oil control orifice u will have crap oil pressure and continue to destroy motors , THESE pictures are not mine found them in google search so credit go's to the owners

the one in the head


the one in the block should be here , he's missing it in the pic also

 

gotcha and ill be a little more subtle in this

the head is not the one from the original engine, nor is the block they are totally differant from one another, but have the same issue.

original block took out where the squirter was in the #1 cylinder, and the second build did have the original head on it wich dropped 4 valves in the #1 cylinder.

now the second block was bored to 84mm, and a new head was placed on it, and when it was fired up it sucked in metal that was still in the edelbrock intake, and then everything was redone, and the block went to 84.5mm, and the head was sent out to be tested, and cleaned up with supertech springs etc.

im following what you are saying totally, but I am still looking at 2 totally differant motors having the same issue.

how do i change the title of this thread?????

 

"original block took out where the squirter was in the #1 cylinder, and the second build did have the original head on it wich dropped 4 valves in the #1 cylinder. "

jw are you saying that you removed the quirter but didnt plug the port ? also honestly man to me its starting to sound like your builder is the most horriable builder and it not checking specs while building or else you have the worst luck i have ever seen a honda owner have . and u have try different oil pumps correct and have you checked to see if you have ANY blocks in ANY of the oil passages anywhere in the head or block , i mean iam really clueless if the pick up, pump , pan , oil orfices ,and squirters and passages all check out to be good . if thats the case it has to be the build thats the problem .

 

Lol when the rod bolts were stripped out and went through the oil pan in the first engine we replaced the block and used the same head that was on that motor for the rebuild, and when it was finished and up and running it has the same oil light flicker that the previouse engine did, and it still has it after 4 builds now. The head was sent out to be tested, and have the supertech springs put in it, and when the 84.5mm bore was done the block was checked then also. The fact that it has been every setup having the same issue especially after 4 consecutive builds now it does seem it may be the builder, and i am trying to see if anyone has any other ideas that maybe going on before i make that assumption.

I will agree i have not had any luck as of yet, and its getting to the point that im ready to drive to dallas and drop it off with t1.

 

have a compitent builder do the work dont go back to poeple that cant do it and waist your money unless they are gona pickup you tab

 

well in my previous post i covered every single mechanical possiability that could cause low oil pressure besides the builder not using the correct specs , so if everything i just mentioned are good to go its your builder hah take that thing to T1 he will no doubt build it rite but by some chance there is another problem u have over looked he will find it

 

I know they spoke with tony about my car and he suggested the oil squirters being loose not allowing pressure to be built. I have contemplated just doing a whole new block, but hell i have had what 3 now and the same issue exists lol.

 

yea i know , i highly doubt the squirters werent sealed fully in 3 different blocks , it definatly sounds like a builder issue to me , but did u check to see if u have the oil control orifice in the block , maybe u never had it to begin with so you never knew u were missing it , u know what iam saying ? which could be which 3 block messed up because you NEVER had it so you never new there was supposed to be a part in that port

 

True im not a builder so i couldnt tell you yes or no on that i have left it up to the shop wich i have had nothing but confidence in since they have 2 pretty quick cars that they have built.

 

UNFORTUNATELY THAT MAYBE CHANGING

 

well let me say there was a guy in the forced induction forum who really knows his stuff well anyway he built his motor realised he had low oil pressure and a metal on metal sound as the car revved down .so he pulled it apart and resalised that orifice wasnt installed .that block pic was actually from his post asking about what should be there lol. so no matter if they have fast cars or not, people over look stuff its human nature . but i will say his problem wasnt the orifice it was somthing different .he wasnt destroying motors like u though lol he just had a weird noise problem .

 

Ill pass that along. We did see the mtalik noise i had was the bearing,and alteast we know its low oil pressure now lol, but just dont know why yet. I am a no nonsence guy im ready to do another short block myself, and eliminate that one all togather. Im by no means rich, but think it would be less than screwing alot more stuff up

 

So the control oil orface actually hellps to create pressure then? If you dont mind what was his issue in the end? (pm if need be)

 

that was the guys problem i was telling u about where he tore his motor apart numerous times due to low oil pressure and a gutted vtec solenoid was the problem the whole time, a gutted solenoid is the same as no oil control orifice there both designed to create oil pressure so with both of them missing they both cause low oil pressure ,so check ur vtec solenoid internals .the the oil control orifice in the block and the one in the head lol i sent you pics so you should have no excuse to not knowing if they are there or not haha goodlick man

 

Thanx man i will i know for a fact we have vetec cross over because of the dyno sheet, and its being read through the aem ems. The oil orfaces will be where i go first

 

yea if u check and find out everything i listed is good i honestly cant think of anything else besides the builder lol

 

Lol

 

I do remember the issue with him being the vetec solenoid i followed that thread, but couldnt remember