So just to double check... 1-wire o2 sensor cant physically be converted to a 4-wire o2 sensor right..?? In another forum, there was a guy who thought he had his own lil ghetto-fab way of doin it but im not tryna be ghetto but can't buy o2 sensor til next week and I have a 1-wire o2 sensor layin around to mess with...

 

In theory it should be possible to make a 1-wire sensor work on a car whose stock sensor is 4-wire. All correctly operating automotive oxygen sensors send the same signal to the car's computer: A voltage that oscillates irregularly around 0.45 volts, with 0.45 volts representing the ideal amount of oxygen in the exhaust and so a perfect air/fuel mixture being combusted.

4-wire sensors use two of the wires for an internal heater. Oxygen sensors do not work correctly until they reach a certain temperature. The heater brings the sensor up to normal operating temperature more quickly and so the engine can use "closed loop feedback" sooner, and so be somewhat more efficient, than an engine with a 1-wire sensor.

If you are interested, see more at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor , among many other sites.

Caution: Seems to me I have read many folks' reports of messing with their O2 sensors and blowing them out. So be prepared to accidentally destroy the old 1-wire you are thinking of messing with.

I hope your new sensor is either a Denso or NGK, bought online (the cheapest route).

 

very easy, send this guy an email,i have used many of his wire conversions, http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2458565

 

I did a Multimeter test and at first it was at -0.32 than after a lil bit it went into the positive 0.44 area.... does that mean my o2 sensor is fine..??

my cars bogging really bad at low-mid range throttle, but than at WOT it just scoots right thru the bogging like its not even there... i changed cap, plugs, wires, rotor, fuel filter, fuel injectors, ect ect and it still does it.. and im throwin CEL 43 for "Fuel Pressure Supply"...

 

First you need to fix the Code 43 you are getting. Whatever is causing the Code 43 may also be throwing off the oxygen content in the exhaust, giving you readings that do not tell you much about whether the O2 sensor is working right.

When you do resume testing the oxygen sensor: Are you measuring the voltage signal with the O2 sensor still sending its signal to the ECU? If all is working correctly then voltage should jump rapidly above and below 0.45 volts. The voltage is not supposed to go negative. The sensor's design is such that a high number of crossings of 0.45 volts should occur every minute with the car just idling. Googling turns up a number of sites that discuss proper testing and operation of the O2 sensor. The shop manual has a test, too.

How old is this O2 sensor? They only last 50k to 100k miles. They may be functional after this, but not perfectly so. Is it Denso or NGK?

What year and model of Honda? What swaps, if any, were done?

 

stock 92 dx hatch... d15b7 completely stock... 130k miles... all maintenance regularly done, with only issue i've had since i owned the car was tube seals going out an 2 cylinders flooding with oil "this actually happened twice..??" but other than that everythings been fine "except my coolant boiling every couple days, which is a whole nother story"...

 

and yeah, i youtube'd it on the correct way for my setup and did the same exact test...

 

If you mean you have bubbles appearing in the coolant reservoir, this is a sign of a cooling system breach (head gasket or other engine cooling breach). Look for other signs, too, like a sweet smelling exhaust; white exhaust out the tailpipe; milky engine oil. Coolant may very well be getting in your cylinders throwing out wild exhaust content that the O2 sensor is reading.

Has this Civic been overheated ever? If so, this increases the chances of a head gasket failure.

You can check things like your fuel pressure (using the fuel supply system troubleshooting guide at http://media.honda.co.uk/car/owner/m...s/CivicManual/), but if you have a cooling system breach, then it is going to explain a lot of the problems you are having. So now I would go after the bubbles in the reservoir, if this is what you mean, first.

Lastly, exhaust contaminated with coolant may destroy an oxygen sensor.

 

U make some good points.. i already did a lil rundown, no milky oil, no smoke from exhaust, but i do smell coolant sometimes inside while driving, and i'm not sure if the car was ever overheated but i was told that it ran perfectly when i bought it so i just assume...

 

also , compression test was 205, 205, 215, 210

its just ironic how all these tests im doin are showing signs of a good headgasket but it could still be the culprit..

and no i didnt mean bubbles in the resevoir i meant boiling water in the resevoir, the **** gets so hot it starts spewing out of the overflow and underneath the radiator cap...

 

I agree those are reassuring numbers. (The spec for the D15B in the shop manual is 184, 136, 28 psi = nominal, minimum, and max difference between cylinders.)

How old are the thermostat, radiator cap, and water pump? Are they OEM? What anti-freeze have you been using in the system, and how old is the coolant?

It is possible your radiator has become blocked with time, too. Typically early 90s Hondas are on their second radiator at this time.

An exhaust gas test of the coolant can give still more assurance that there is no head gasket or cylinder/cooling system breach. But start by checking the thermostat, rad cap, and water pump.

 

rad cap brand new, thermostat was removed last week to see if that was issue "problem still persisted", and water pump im guessing is stock.. but would the weep hole be leaking if it was the W/P..??

 

also, if i spliced the white wire from the 1wire o2 sensor into the white wire on the engine harness where a 4wire o2 sensor would plug in, would it work like that..?? or do the green & 2 blacks have to be connect to something also...