Here is the deal; I just completed a B16a swap into my 90Si. The bottom end and head were rebuilt at my local machine shop. I had it bored and CP pistons and Eagle rods installed. 5 angle valve grind, Brian Crower stage 2 cams, springs and retainers. New everything. I am running the OEM intake and header with a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with resonator and magnaflow muffler. This car sounds great and goes like a sexually assaulted primate. Are you with me so far? Here is my problem:
Check engine lamp on, code 1 flashing on the pw0 ecm. Yes I have both o2 sensors wired correctly and I am getting a correct signal from both sensors at the ecm connector so I have ruled out wiring and sensor as the fault. Also, the light turns on as soon as the key is turned to "run", the car doesn’t even have to start for the code to set. The code cannot be cleared, I have disconnected the battery, unplugged the ecm, pulled both ecm fuses with the key on/off, no change. I believe the fault exists within the ecm itself but before I replace it I wanted to know: HAS ANYONE SEEN THIS BEFORE AND IF SO, WHAT DID YOU DO?
P.S. I am a licensed tech of 10 years (3 years with Honda). I have done my homework. I wouldn't be on here asking for help if I wasn't totally at a loss. I have spent thousands on this build only to be foiled by a check engine lamp, I really need some help here. Thanks in advance.

 

The O2 sensor wiring is good and the proper signal is reaching the ECU Plug.
Onlt thing I can think of is check if the pins are in the correct location?
If that is good, I would agree - try a different ECU.
Good luck

 

Your pic was awsome, I did have the o2's backwards but unfortunately
it was not the problem. The check engine lamp comes on and code 1 flashed the moment you turn on the key. I checked key on engine off terminal voltage of both o2's at the ecm connector and they sit around .5v, this is normal I think. I have tried every method short of witchcraft to clear the code to no avail. I also did pinout voltage tests on all the ecm connector terminals to make sure all the other wiring is ok. I replaced a SINGLE ecm the whole time I worked at Honda, I have a hard time believing the ecm is at fault, plus i'm cheep.

 

if voltages are correct at the ecu, i would say replace it. if you don't have access to another ecu, i have a spare pr3 you can play with for the cost of postage.

 

Dude, I will take you up on that offer, that is incredibly generous. If it fixes my problem would you be willing to sell it? Let me know how much you want for shipping and i'll pay pal you the coin us funds.

 

send me an e-mail to zrickety at hotmail.com with your address. i'm shot tomorrow but i can send it on friday. we can talk postage then, and if it works for you i can let it go at a very reasonable price. happy to help and it's good karma at least