Got a 96 jdm type r in my coupe. I was about to start saving up for the TODA ITBs which will take god knows how long with other **** to pay off..

I'm really not looking forward to spending 2,000 on the Toda's if anyone knows anything thats works just as well. I was surfing around on the internet the other day and found OBX ITBs.. I read a little on them but of course you can never tell from the sellers discription what your really going to get out of it.

Does ANYONE know anything about the OBX itbs?

I'm guna be running it mayb as a DD for just a little while until i can scoop up a beater but not looking to drive it like that everyday.

JDM TYPE R
Hytec Replica Header
2.5" header back.
Injen short ram ( moving to short ram with Vstack soon)
lightweight fidanza fly wheel
JDM CTR N1 1.3 lbs Crank Pulley
Skunk2 Pro Series 1 Valve Train (Springs, Retainers, Valves, Cams, Gears)
Walboro 255 Fuel Pump

 

I am thinking that people are probably going to tell you that for the mods you have, it wont be worth spending the money on ITB's, spend money on the head first (port, polish, etc) thats where the money and the power is. Also why spend $2000 on ITB's when you could spend it on getting a better header?

 

I was just looking into it. I know i need some more **** before i can get to the itbs. thats why i'm asking around and not just buying things right now. I have an appt. to drop my head off to get it port and polished in 2 weeks.

Also does anyone got any feedback on how Blox B cams work with the type r's??
I'm not so sure I like the Skunk2 pro series 1's.

 

whys that? imho its one of the best street cams around right now.

 

down the road laterrr on look into twm's itb's...

 

but why later, why not now??? and why twm...i heard they suck and stick shut all the time man. i wouldnt run those.

 

TWM Induction makes some of the best throttle bodies you'll find on the market today.

If you want to go cheap, buy the OBX and just make sure everything is tight and sealed properly. Someone here bought the manifold and ended up having to replace alot of stuff. There's a thread somewhere.

 

Actually...Jenvey blows them away.

This thread seems to be another example of the whole Lego mentality. Choose your build as a package.....not "What part should I get NEXT?"

Your money will be better spent on a PnP for your head to match your package along with a properly sized header.

 

Take your pick, I myself would pass on the Jenvey, Toda and TWM pieces. If my DIY ITB's don't run the way I want. I'm going with a set of Kinsler individual throttles. IMO they have been in the carb/fuel injection business long enough to make my choice easy.

 

your gonna need a **** load of tuning...if i was you i'd invest in getting better cams first...

 

see imho jenvey/kinsler etc are works of art of course, and will make for perfectly tuned intake lengths etc when used correctly but they just arent affordable to the mid level enthusiast.

i run the a set of 50mm twm's that have been honed out, the plates never ever stick, and they made a beauty of a power curve i was after.

would a higher end beter sized set have made more power? probably, but i can deal with 5whp less and still having money in my wallet lol.

as for the "lego mentality" i like that term haha. you need to look at the setup as a whole and what parts fit, not what you want next. my motor was not originally built for itb's, but i had enough compression and cam that it would work, ran them for a season and realized they would benefit extremely from headwork, so i did that, and will be getting it tuned in the coming months.

 

We need a Dyno Shootout! haha, anyone ballin' enough to have these ITB's kicking around?

 

whys that? my itb's took no longer to tune than a regular setup.

with good boards like neptune rtp and such, its no different really.

its just comes down to a tps vs. alpha-n setup.

 

well thats my 2cents from reading on HT. LOL

 

Ah the H-T myth of the nightmare ITB tuning. I used to hang out with a few sport bike guys. I've seen what tuning individual throttles can be like. Mercury tubes tiny little screwdrivers small cramped spaces. But those fiddle faddle times are pretty much gone.

The availability of relatively inexpensive & tunable engine management systems and a good piece of software, with the right features. Makes for an easier tune. I haven't tuned hundreds of cars but I've done enough to be comfortable with what I'm using.

With a good tunable EMS you can shut off a lot of the unnecessary sensors and have others do things they were not really programed to do. That allows ITB's to be easier to handle than they used to be.

 

Lego my Eggo...just goes back to the approach of "I've got an intake, I'm going to get an exhaust next...then a header." After they get all the basic bolt-ons, they start asking "What should I get next?" I think we all looked at it that way at one time. It's a basic starting point...you just have to move past it and begin to understand what it takes to MAKE power...not just take external restriction off of the engine.

Just after talking with DonF, one of the few people on here that has had experience with both the TWMs and the Jenveys, he recommended the Jenveys over and over again over TWMs.

I, personally, can't speak to the difference in price. I don't know what the 2 setups cost. I do know that I've seen a set of Jenvey 48mm tapered ITBs on HT for around $1700. You DEFINITELY don't see as many Jenvey setups! However, Don did say the extra money was money well spent....was something about matching them to the engine.....that the TWMs are usually too big, in his opinion, for most apps. Let's be honest, if you're looking into ITBs, you're pretty much throwing everything at NA performance that you can think of...not saying that's a bad thing...it's just how it is. Most of the mid-level enthusiasts won't spend the money to have an ITB'd setup. A lot of people will put that cash toward an FI setup before ITBs. You'll definitely get more HP gain for your buck from an FI setup. If you look at the numbers and you're building the engine from scratch, it's not as bad of a jump as everyone thinks (when you're buying a new plenum IM, TB, fuel rail, etc)...not like having bought that stuff before and jumping into ITBs.

You're 100% correct on the CR and cam statement. You have to have enough flow to really see all the benefit from ITBs. Properly sized ITBs aren't nearly as much of a restriction as a plenum IM and TB. You can get them to flow pretty much what the head will....with a few CFM difference.

 

i have heard from a few people that the blox ITBS are no good..

 

Save the ITB for the last upgrade.