Well sorry to say but I have a problem with my DPFI to MPFI swap.

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/hcivic8...hgenhatch.net/

http://www.50mod.com/fourthgenhatch/mpfi.html

http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.ph...0caa4d26c5d7fa


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3D20%26um%3D1

CRX tech pageshttp://www.geocities.com/teampimports/fuelinj.html

FourthGenHatch

These are the websites that I used for reference. yes all of them.

I have quadro checked my wiring and still my 90 wagon is in limp mode.

This is what I'm working with.

90 LS throttle body, 93 Z6 Intake manifold, 90 LS resistor box, 90 LS injectors, 90 LS OBD-0 PR4 ECU. It's a 5 speed if that matters. I was using an A6 dizzy that I was borrowing from a friend.

At first -
With an A6 dizzy the wagon will crank up and run. If I rev it up slowly it will rev up to 3k to 3200 and thats it.

Then -
I made a OBD-0 to OBD-1 Distributor jumper harness.
The dizzy I am using now is a SOHC 1,5 dx dizzy. My Wagon still will only rev up between 3k and 3200 just as before, but it seems to rev up faster and seems stronger than before.

I know it's in limp mode, 99% sure my wiring is on time, every connection was soldered and taped [didn't have heat shrink] I did swap my TPS wires.
I tried the map sensor I got from the Z6 IM - no difference
I tried swapping around the wires from C1 and C2 on the ECU just to see if maybe I mixed them up - no difference
I tried different ecus as well from running cars

I really don't know what else to do.

And yes an obd-o ecu will run a OBD-1 dizzy. Hopefully I will be able to get an HF or SI dizzy unless its going to be safe to run the OBD-1 DX dizzy.


Can someone please help?

 

the OBD1 distributor will not work with OBD0 ECU

 

pshh, I have proof it will. My wagon is doing it.

 

Apparently not...

Since we know that the car is in limp mode is it not throwing a code? if so what is the code.

 

Listen 8 post. I need help with my car, not you being negative.

Its still in limp mode no matter the ECU or Distributor.

throwing code 4 , Crank Angle Sensor.

Gonna replace some wiring just in case there is a break in the wires some where

 

its in limp mode with a code 4 because you have the incorrect distributor as jlicrx already said. the output signal from an obd1 dizzy is different than an obd0 diz due to a different amount of teeth on the magnetic pickup wheel inside. an obd0 ecu cannot decypher an obd1 signal, it's just that simple.

 

If you read my post you would see that it does not matter which dizzy or ecu i put in there, It stays in limp mode.

 

I will go ahead and confirm that both of these people are correct. My next guess is that the op won't listen to us and keep bumping the thread to give us all a migraine, rather than just swapping the correct distributor.

it is even right there in one of your links.. http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/fuelinj.html says you need a 88-91 distributor.

I wonder if someone sold you a obd0 distributor with obd1 plugs on it, and thats why your other car is working.. its the only explanation i have.. unless it was some reman from autozone and they f'd up the rebuild.

 

you need to clear the code before you try to start the car again, after doing the distributor swap..

 

I tried that as well. I'm sourcing an A6 dizzy, going to rework my wires and see if things change.

Thanks for all the input.

 

Well, I reworked my wires for the CAS code I was throwing and got an A6 dizzy and still the same code.

 

But a OBD 2 dizzy will work with a OBD 1 ECU... on d-series to my knowledge.

 

Acctually you started being a smartass in your second post. an dI was just kidding maybe I should've put a smiley... oh well moving on

Now IF you know that you have a good Dizzy and a good ECU then is has to be wiring. If I were you I would pull out my multi meter and start checking the wires that you have cut and soldered. Also are you sure that the wires that you depinned are seated good in the connector. I would also check for corrosion in all of the connectors if you see any junk in the connectors then you can try some of the CRC electrical connestion cleaner spray, it does work very well.

Also is the connector at the dizzy broken(the plastic itself)? If it is your connector might not be strong enough to make a really strong connection there. This was my issue on my car when i got the code 4.

 

Hmmm, guess at this point it wouldn't hurt to try the cleaner. The only thing left is the wiring. I'll run the meter on it and see what I come up with. Thanks a bunch man.

 

thats correct, but not what we are talking about here. obd-1 and obd-2 are interchangeable. obd 0 and obd 1/2 are not however.

for what it is worth, I have plugged in a distributor and had one of the pins on the distributor side pop right out of the harness. The car had the same exct error as before, but with a brand new distributor. I inspected the plug later on, and noticed the popped out pin, fixed it, and everything was fine.

You may also get some dialectric grease to put in the plugs. it helps when there are old contacts that dont work well anymore, and keeps dirt and water away from the contacts.

 

Good advice, thanks again guys. I'll keep you posted.

 

Okay, you ready for this?

Just because a pr4 works in one civic don't mean it will work in yours.

That being said I tried a PM6 ECU tonight that came out of my friends car and bam, no code and it runs like a champ.

My wires were good, for some reason that PR4 would not work in my car even though it worked in someone else's.

Thanks for all the help guys.