Ok I have a 99 honda civic SI. I swapped in the B18C5 myself and removed the chip in the type R OBDII ecu that I got with the swap. The car runs and all but when vtec engaged It didn't do to much. I can hear it but it's almost like a D series vtec. No real kick or gain in power. The motor isn't completely stock but even stock it feels to me like it should be faster than it is. I thought at first it was because the guy I bought it from screwed me and it had B16 cams in it when they were supposed to be Skunk2 Pro1's

I bought some CTR cams and installed them today and although it is faster vtec still feels and sounds the same. I have had CTR's in my gsr motors and b16 motors before and vtec normally screams when it switches over. I don't hear of feel that with this car. It has the factory air box with the lower section removed and a WS2 exhaust.

Now that I got the history mostly out of the way.

I have a check engine code for my secondary o2 sensor and I am wondering if that would put the ecu into limp mode. If so that would explain quite a bit.

No other check engine lights show up so I am hoping that is the case.

Thanks everyone and sorry you had to read through all my BS.

 

I have a b16a2 OBDII 99 si. ive had a CEL on 2nd o2 sensor for a year now because i dont know what i want to do with the set up i have, and ive never had problems with limp mode. but you have a diff. set up but thats my 2 cents

 

there is a very thourough diagnostic procedure for the VTEC system in the service manual. Here is a link. It is a relatively simple procedure. Just follow the step by step instructions. Following the service manual will help you find the problem faster than using this forum because it has a deliberate flow chart that helps prevent you from checking or replacing things that aren't necessary. It also takes a lot of the guess work out.

Here is the link. Just click on the manual for the one that best matches your motor's year.

http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

 

The 2nd o2 sensor will not put your car into limp mode. You mentioned that you put ctr's in it, have you checked to make sure the timing is right?

 

Yes I checked rechecked and triple checked. I will check again tomorrow though. I just rechecked my ecu codes and aparently my main o2 sensor is throwing a code now too. #$%! I just replaced that one when I did the swap.

 

Well yea, the primary o2 will make your car run like shizzle.

 

I have an extra 4 wire O2 sensor and a 1 wire as well. Both were in working condition when I pulled them off my car. I am using innovative! LC-1 wideband kit now, so I don't need the narrowband stuff any more. PM me if you're interested.

 

 

Pm'd about o2 sensor. Hopefully I can figure this out tomorrow.

 

One last thing. You might want to check all your o2 sensor wire leads. It gets hot down there near your headers. Some of the wire sheathing may have melted off and exposed some of the wire and caused it to ground out. When you have some good light, jack your car up and see if you can see any part of the wire that might be comprimised. It doesn't take much for an electric charge to jump, so look carefully along the entire length of the wire. Chances are it is grounding out which would explain why it keeps going out.

Just a thought...

 

hmmm, yes primary 02 will throw you off, secondary is for emission purposes. still not sure what you mean by "you removed the chip in the itr obd2 ecu". if its still obd2 idk how your gonna run closed loop if thats what you mean by you dont need narrowband anymore.

 

You're confusing me with the OP. The OP is running OBD II

I am running OBD I with wideband and Neptune RTP (which is irrelevant to the OP)

 

man its late haha. i got myself confused lol.

either way i have no clue what hes talking about when he said he removed the chip from the obd2 ecu anyway. but maybe its still too late for me to think haha.

 

He must be talking about some kind of flash tuning chip or something. Who knows...

 

Sorry guys when I said I removed the chip it was late. I mean the imobilizer chip so that I could use the type R ecu in my car. It is OBD2B so they have the chip so the car wont start without the correct key. I removed that so my car does start.

I will check the wiring today and see whats up. I don't want to have to replace both of the friggin o2 sensors. Hopefully it's just a wiring issue. My 2nd o2 is also 4 wire though I think?? isn't it? Like I said my car is OBD2B. I have no 2nd o2 but I was under the same assumption that is was for emmissions so I didn't worry about it for now. It was broken off when I got the car.

 

yea its 4 wire. convert to obd1 and you wont need the second o2. and if its a chipped obd1 ecu you can disable the primary o2 and run closed loop.