What is the best motor oil and filter to use for boosted gsr
I have a built turbo gsr and would like some opinions on what motor oil to use.
I am using regular non detergent oil for break in period.
let me know guys. thanks.
I am using regular non detergent oil for break in period.
let me know guys. thanks.
I had oil burn off with royal purple. After research found it was the dye in the oil. Switched to Castrol Syntec. No problems ever. Mobil1, K&N, Purolator, Microgard etc. are all the same filter. Wix, beleive it or not FTMFW. 100% steel, and a Silicone anti drain back to prevent dry starts as apposed to a Nitrade Rubber like all the others listed which gets hard after age. Wix 5.50$ and the best filter out of those.
redline oil and a HAMP filter here. the HAMPs also have the anti drain back valve. do a google search for oils if you wish but the redline, amsoil and shell euro synthetics have some of the best film strength.
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mobile is garbage is turbo cars...
you'll notice that oil just walking off somewhere
castrol is good
valvoline is good
ams oil
red line are all good
pick a filter
as long as you change it in your 3k intervals the filter won't matter
you'll notice that oil just walking off somewhere
castrol is good
valvoline is good
ams oil
red line are all good
pick a filter
as long as you change it in your 3k intervals the filter won't matter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,013
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
You guys do realize that OEM Honda filters are the same as FRAM filters, right? Cardboard end caps and everything, for about twice as much as the FRAM.
I wouldn't let an OEM Honda filter touch my engine.
STP filters for about $4 have been working great for my engine w/ 275K miles on it.
OP, you would probably get better info from turbo guys if you looked in the Forced Induction forum.
I wouldn't let an OEM Honda filter touch my engine.

STP filters for about $4 have been working great for my engine w/ 275K miles on it.
OP, you would probably get better info from turbo guys if you looked in the Forced Induction forum.
i use shell rotella t 15w40. its heavy oil. used on turbo diesel trucks. may not be good in real cold climates unless you have a block warmer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,013
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Just remember, the thicker the oil, the more likely you are to spin rod or crank bearings, or do other damage to the engine. Does your turbo engine have looser bearing tolerances than a stock N/A Honda engine? If not, that thicker oil will have a much more difficult time getting in between the bearings to do its job.
Also, you should use the absolute thinnest cold-weight oil you can find that still has the required weight at operating temperature. 80% of engine wear occurs during cold startup, and the thicker the oil is when cold means more wear is occurring when you first start up the engine. I've been using 5w-30 for the past 8 years but I'm thinking of switching to Amsoil's 0w-30 with its 1-year oil drain interval.
Also, you should use the absolute thinnest cold-weight oil you can find that still has the required weight at operating temperature. 80% of engine wear occurs during cold startup, and the thicker the oil is when cold means more wear is occurring when you first start up the engine. I've been using 5w-30 for the past 8 years but I'm thinking of switching to Amsoil's 0w-30 with its 1-year oil drain interval.
on another note, patrick is 100% correct about the weight on a stock motor. using 15-40 may work fine on a high mile motor that has loosened up but it's basically guess work since you have no clue what your clearances are. the only time i would run 40w is when the engine oil temps were hot enough to justify it. on a 95deg summer day if i'm doing lap day at the track straight 40w would not bother me at all. the engine and oil temps will rise. 250-300 degree oil temps are common after a few laps. on the street 5-30w is my choice. 10-30 would be fine as well.
Last edited by racebum; Mar 22, 2009 at 11:57 AM.
See I have read a few places that synthetic ends up burning off in a turbo car and ends up breaking down faster? I ran Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic in my turbo b16 ef hatch, had no oil leaks that I could see. Put even a piece of cardboard down to make sure. I was losing a small amount of oil and have no idea where it went.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,013
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Read the oil articles on Ferrari Chat by Dr. A.E. Haas. It will change the way you think about motor oil.
When I used to buy Honda oil filters back in 2001, I would always specifically request a "Made in USA" filter at the Honda parts counter. Those were made by Filtech, but they were being phased out at the time and were becoming harder to find. The Made in Canada filters are the same as Frame filters.
Since then I have always used STP filters for the past 170K+ miles.
275K on stock B18C1 and it doesn't leak a drop with 5w-30 Valvoline MaxLife used year-round, changed every 3 months.
When I used to buy Honda oil filters back in 2001, I would always specifically request a "Made in USA" filter at the Honda parts counter. Those were made by Filtech, but they were being phased out at the time and were becoming harder to find. The Made in Canada filters are the same as Frame filters.

Since then I have always used STP filters for the past 170K+ miles.
275K on stock B18C1 and it doesn't leak a drop with 5w-30 Valvoline MaxLife used year-round, changed every 3 months.










