I have a 91 hatch, its got the stock d15 dual point, has a 5 speed. i picked up a DOHC D16A1 in te 88-89 flavor, is this swap going to be worth it in my DX? Its currently the slowest car i own (my toyota with a nasty rod knock smokes it, literally)

the car already has Skunk2 coilovers, wagon hubs and axles in the front, integra disks in the back, 15" webs, and a strut bar package. rips corners and stops fast, but its a friggin slug.

i already have the D16A1, and i have a T25 and manifold. been searchin around for a while. ill go search some more and check back for some first hand, current responses here.

 

didnt note, i am building this as a DD, on pump gas, so boost numbers will be low.

 

Actually, how you are doing this?

 

yea ive heard that something doesnt add up in the mount department on this swap, like the zc is different from the d16a1. bump for you and i wanna know too.

 

Not worth it.

It doesn't bolt in the same as a dohc zc. More work for less reward.

You'd be better served to do an mpfi swap, a6 cam/y8 cam gear, and an si transmission to your dx. It will really wake it up and make it a helluva lot more fun to drive.

then , you've already got mpfi and can go whereever you like from there. (swap, boost, swap/boost)

 

so, keep the D15B2 short block, and a Z6 head? what exactly are you talking about. i am looking for more ideas, so please. can i accomplish power with the stock head? stock motor?

 

Worth the swap IMO.
You are saying that you want to drop in the A6 and add turbo, right?

Even better rebuild the bottom end a little and add some LS rods (CHEAP) or get some nice aftermarket rods. Pick up some Vitara pistons (CHEAP!) or some nice aftermarkets and viola - you can boost the snot out of your engine and triple the hp and still be good for DD.

 

he has a D16A1 from 88-89 Integra, not D16A6

 

i havent found very many aftermarket parts for the A1 either. slightly worried about that. i am wanting to have 180-220 whp reliably on the street.

 

Pick up a DOHC ZC and run that on low boost IMO

 

Bah... my bad.
Always mixing those up backwards.


Sell the A1 and get an A6.. or a Z6!

 

Not worth it,get an A6 instead.

 

neither are worth it those d series engines blow imo get a y8 motor throw some vitaras in and boost

 

the d16a1 would be a drect bolt in if you had a 86-87 crx civic si not 88-91

 

If you go with a "Black Top" d16a1 it will bolt up just fine. The "Brown Top" has a different driver side mount. The "Brown Top" bolts into the 84-87 chassis perfect. But from past experience they do not have good oiling in the head. We had a 1st gen integra that would last 4-5 races on Nitrous and then it would seize the cam bearings due to poor oiling in the head. Remember this. 2 Cams= more moving parts than 1 cam. And there is so much to be gained with a single cam if done correctly.

 

not true - all 86-89 Integra D16A1 engines have the different driver's side mount, different starter mounting and different transmission bolt pattern - no D16A1 will bolt into the 88-91 Civic/CRX without fabricating a driver's side mount

 

Thats weird that you say that because I remember doing a few of these many years ago and the engine from the 88-89 (Black Top) went right in. But we also used the a1 trans. The only issue I ever had was when the Brown Top was involved. Strange.

But IMO ,,,, No its not worth it at all. You can use that money and put it in your D series and do well...

 

when did honda use cam bearings?????

 

Thats what the cam end caps and where they sit are actually called.

 

dude... for the same amount of time and pain that you will spend on that swap, just do a b16a, b18a/b, gsr, any b series motor swap... b16a's and the gsr's b18c1/5 are good for 310 whp on stock internals with 12 lbs of boost... buddy has a friend who put 320whp at 15lbs on his gsr... runs it daily on stock rods and everything...
im workin on a b16a (i blew up my b18a1 due to i lost oil pressure and went boom ) i bought a b16a2 block, pistons, rods, brand new crank bearing set, all the bolts, water pump, basically the whole bottem end with out the oil pump (your supposed to change them anyway) for 175 dollars... goin to buy a fully built b16a head off a buddy of mine for 600 and get a pr3 ecu as well with it skunk 2 spec stage 2 cams, cam gears, dual spring, titanium valve retainers, and i believe its re surfaced... that alone should be a 210-220 crank hp na, with vtec... that 220 surely destroys that d16a6 any day even on a turbo so lets see... 175(for the bottem end) + 200 for bottem end work (deck surface, clearances and assembled) +70 for oil pump is 445 bucks +600 for the fully built head and intake mani = 1045 bucks for a 210-220 hp set up, but that doesnt include the fact my car is set up for a b series lol,
how i see things is, go big or dont go at all...
now if your staying with d series, d15b vtec all the way... i love that motor in my eg 4door... i smoked a 4door gsr yesterday with it..