Some input for trunk customization
I've been compiling a list of mods that I would like to do to my civic. Occasionally a new one will pop up from something that sparked an idea and of course I research it and write it down. One idea that i'm stuck on is my custom trunk. I have a 2 farad power cap, Alpine PDX 1000 and 2 Alpine Type R's. I don't plan on using my trunk for space or anything like that just basically show.
Now my plans were to do this myself. Carve up some MDF and line my entire trunk with it, then add fiberglass and paint, etc etc yada yada... But i'm not too sure I have the "carpenter" skills to achieve this, and yet can't find a shop nearby that can do this. The layout is another area i'm having trouble with. For my subs i've thought of having them face up, flat in the fiberglass on each side of my spare tire well with my amps (another for components coming soon) and cap down inside the well but on a hydraulic platform that with a push of a button will come from down inside the well to about 5" past flush.
Another route was to keep the platform idea, but put my subs facing each other on the "wall" of the trunk maximizing room, but I felt that would leave some empty space. Another thing I want to add is blue neon, everywhere! I want to open my trunk and have blue just poor out lol. If you guys could throw in some ideas, or point me in the right direction for some smarts I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
*Note - If you want to see all the ideas I have for Project Civic visit this link https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...0#post37816450
Now my plans were to do this myself. Carve up some MDF and line my entire trunk with it, then add fiberglass and paint, etc etc yada yada... But i'm not too sure I have the "carpenter" skills to achieve this, and yet can't find a shop nearby that can do this. The layout is another area i'm having trouble with. For my subs i've thought of having them face up, flat in the fiberglass on each side of my spare tire well with my amps (another for components coming soon) and cap down inside the well but on a hydraulic platform that with a push of a button will come from down inside the well to about 5" past flush.
Another route was to keep the platform idea, but put my subs facing each other on the "wall" of the trunk maximizing room, but I felt that would leave some empty space. Another thing I want to add is blue neon, everywhere! I want to open my trunk and have blue just poor out lol. If you guys could throw in some ideas, or point me in the right direction for some smarts I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!
*Note - If you want to see all the ideas I have for Project Civic visit this link https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...0#post37816450
Last edited by Burrows_M; Mar 17, 2009 at 10:38 PM. Reason: Added link to Project Civic
uhhhhh, ok. goodluck with that. I refer you back to the posts on your first thread, especially this one
...ohh man I just went through your list, you have got some learning to do. please dont do that crap, it makes us all look bad. Did you download a bootleg copy of the new F&F???
Maybe you should try this forum, https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27
you might get better responses there
this reminds me, Are you guys ready for the influx of the next set of professional 16yr old streetracers?
everyone will be laughing.
Maybe you should try this forum, https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=27
you might get better responses there
this reminds me, Are you guys ready for the influx of the next set of professional 16yr old streetracers?
did you even read anything in his "list"? Thats the crap Im referring to. Unless your a rice boy too? He asked for my opinion and I gave it to him, what did you do?
Spend $2-$5k to have a shop build it or spend around $500 (if you have majority of the tools required) and learn how to build it yourself I will do it myself also.
Just build a basic box for the subs and build a panel to block off the openings stretch some cloth and resin to make a design that you like, bondo, sand, and paint or wrap in vinyl or what ever you like. Use some brushes to cover the opening where the hinges or arms that hold the trunk. Behind rear seat I would build another panel maybe a window there and mount amp or whatever you may think that looks good and mount your blue lights behind. As for the spare tire area may build a floor with a window also and may mount amps and caps there with your blue lights. Clean, basic, and simple just takes time and add whatever designs you like.
If you still like to have your cap motorized you can look into using power antennas might cost a little cheaper instead of using a hydraulic or an actuator but you may need to think a little more to make it work the way you want it and depends on how heavy the object it is moving.
There's different types of light you can get from tubes to led strips to accommodate your install.I would wire up the light to come on when I open the trunk and also have a switch to turn it off and on if I don't want it to come on when open. Or have the some of lights pulse with the sub and some on constant whatever you like. Can also link your car alarm to turn your lights or your radio system on/off if your alarm has an additional output for it.
Take some step by step pics of your progress and share it with us. I better not see bunch of blue light glued, Velcro, two sided sticky and wire hanging everywhere all over the trunk when it is finish.
Good luck on the project.
Just build a basic box for the subs and build a panel to block off the openings stretch some cloth and resin to make a design that you like, bondo, sand, and paint or wrap in vinyl or what ever you like. Use some brushes to cover the opening where the hinges or arms that hold the trunk. Behind rear seat I would build another panel maybe a window there and mount amp or whatever you may think that looks good and mount your blue lights behind. As for the spare tire area may build a floor with a window also and may mount amps and caps there with your blue lights. Clean, basic, and simple just takes time and add whatever designs you like.
If you still like to have your cap motorized you can look into using power antennas might cost a little cheaper instead of using a hydraulic or an actuator but you may need to think a little more to make it work the way you want it and depends on how heavy the object it is moving.
There's different types of light you can get from tubes to led strips to accommodate your install.I would wire up the light to come on when I open the trunk and also have a switch to turn it off and on if I don't want it to come on when open. Or have the some of lights pulse with the sub and some on constant whatever you like. Can also link your car alarm to turn your lights or your radio system on/off if your alarm has an additional output for it.
Take some step by step pics of your progress and share it with us. I better not see bunch of blue light glued, Velcro, two sided sticky and wire hanging everywhere all over the trunk when it is finish.
Good luck on the project.
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Lol none of that stuff ha, if I do something I do it right. But I was gonna throw out the whole platform lift idea, have my subs in the back of the trunk by my seat and have them angled towards the bumper. Where the spare tired is, laymy 2 amps and caps down there and have a window covering the whole thing. Blue Neon in the 4 corners of the trunk on constant and 2 of them under the window pulsing to the beat.
You don't port subs.
You can port the enclosure though... It's been a few years since I've been in the game, but I always thought Type R's sounded better in a sealed enclosure...
You can port the enclosure though... It's been a few years since I've been in the game, but I always thought Type R's sounded better in a sealed enclosure...
Anyone know about what size of wood I should use? I was thinking 5/8's but if I don't need that much support I dont want the weight that comes with it. I think 1/4" is going to flex too much. If you have done or read somewhere about custom trunks please, shine some light. Thanks
3/4" mdf, If you have no experience, I highly suggest you get a shop, or find someone on the side who can do it and show you how to do it, that way you will learn a lot. My buddy just got a lot of glassing done, got a small shop to do it and he learned alot of installers secrets that hell know for a lifetime and future installs.
Now for porting, you port a box by creating a vent that creates a "tuning frequency" where that sub will be optimized to play. The length of the port, width of the port, and height of the port all play a role in the tuning frequency which is measured in Hz. For most subs, a good frequency is 30-35 Hz for daily music, and if you want to be louder, 40-45 Hz will give you the SPl scores, because youll more than likely peak at 45-50 Hz, giving you a higher spl score but not that pleasurable on the ears for daily.
For more information, try Soundsolutionsaudio.com or stevemeadesdesigns.com, or realmofexcrusion.com those guys know what their talking about.
And also if you want to get away from the Alpine subs, try looking into FI. Way better than what alpine/infinitity will ever have.
Now for porting, you port a box by creating a vent that creates a "tuning frequency" where that sub will be optimized to play. The length of the port, width of the port, and height of the port all play a role in the tuning frequency which is measured in Hz. For most subs, a good frequency is 30-35 Hz for daily music, and if you want to be louder, 40-45 Hz will give you the SPl scores, because youll more than likely peak at 45-50 Hz, giving you a higher spl score but not that pleasurable on the ears for daily.
For more information, try Soundsolutionsaudio.com or stevemeadesdesigns.com, or realmofexcrusion.com those guys know what their talking about.
And also if you want to get away from the Alpine subs, try looking into FI. Way better than what alpine/infinitity will ever have.
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