Picked up a completely stock '89 Si in great shape (normal rear quarter rust) a couple weeks ago for $250. Runs great, everything works, but the car sat for two years and the rear drums are noisy. I want to pop off the drums to clean and inspect, but can't figure out if the bearings come off with the drum, or does the drum separate from the spindle. Also, there is a very funky nut with a sleeve crimped into the axle.

First question, does the drum come off without removing the hub nut? Second, if hub nut must come off, what is the best way to un-crimp that sleeve?

 

drums just slide off. thats it. if you cant get them off they probably have huge ridges in the drum. you will have to pry and play gently to get them off, probably destroying the shoes in the process. if you plan on using the drums again, grind the ridge off.

 

There is a rubber plug at the top of the backing plate, but I don't see an adjuster wheel inside. Isn't there a way to back off the shoes to get the drums off?

 

have you tried releasing the e-brake. (just giving sujestions)

 

Yes, ebrake is released. This car sat for a long time, but I've never seen drums that won't budge when persuaded by a deadblow. I'm going to try the 8mm bolt trick through two threaded holes tonight.

 

Beat em with a hammer, they'll come off.

 

this. hammer > drum

 

I was wondering why you did not try the two bolts in the first place. I never beat on the drums to remove them; the two bolts works everytime. The shop manual says to use these bolts, and it is dead-on in this case.

 

Well, the shop manual I downloaded from Resource was for an '89 CRX, which has rear discs. I saw the 8mm bolt option on another website and tried it last night. It took less than 30 seconds per side to pop the drums off. Good news is the brakes were in great shape. Thanks.

 

Just for reference, What is the 8mm bolt trick? it's of no use to me i have rear disks but maybe for someones later search.

 

There are two 8 mm threaded bolt holes on the outer face of the drum, between the stud holes. If the drum is stuck on, just get a couple of 8 mm standard thread bolts, about 40 mm in length. Lube the bolts with some amsoil grease, thread in the holes. When the bolt goes through the drum and contacts the hub, start alternating tightening the bolts, turn one a single turn, then alternate to the other and turn a single turn. Keep alternating tightening the bolts until the drum pops off.

 

You can back off the adjuster wheel. You'll have to use a large screwdriver and really apply a lot of pressure as there is a clip which pervents the wheel from turning in the backwards direction (this is the direction you want to turn it of course). A couple of rotations ius all it will take. I would try the 8mm bolt idea first, but this second. I fyou wish to save anything then don't beat it with a hammer.