Hey guys I need some help. I just did an LS swap in my 92' civic hatch, and whenever there is power to the car (a battery hooked up) the running lights are on with the switch off. The key can either be in or out of the ignition, it doesn't matter. Then when I go to turn on the headlights the whole car dies. Has anyone ever had a problem like this? Please if any help let me know. thanks

 

no idea. bump

 

Well i had something just like this happen on a Ef hatch i had
i would say check ALL of your grounds under the engine bay

Hope this helps

 

I was going to look into the grounds as I feel that is mya be it, but also hear me out on this idea. The battery is from my ef hatch, and I know it is a good battery but it has been sitting for a bit in my EF so the charge may be low... I have the alternator hooked up and all but feel that the ground is not allowing the car to charge the battery so therefor when I turn the lights on it dies. THe only way that car will start is by jump starting it off of another vehicle, as the batter does not have enought power to turn it over as it just clicks but once jumped it starts. It will stay running when the cables are taken off but once the lights are turned on it dies. When you jump the car it will not start if the negative cable is connected to the negative terminal on the battery, it has to be grounded to the motor in order for it to start??????? THat is why I feel is has a bad ground. I have the vavle cover grounded to the radiator support, 2) I have the trans grounded to the frame rail, 3) I have the harness grounded to the water neck. Also the harness is hooked up correctly, so if there is any help please help me. I am running a stick DX harness from the d15B7 on my LS motor all sensors are hooked up and the motor runs fine once started just a bitch to get running. thanks

 

You have some serious drain happening somewhere. Without the lights on... do you notice any power surges anywhere else? Like in the dome light with the radio is on or maybe with the turn signal flashing?

 

I had the same problem years ago exactly.....turned out to be a major ground left unconnected after i picked up my car from the body shop. It's amazing how much a bad or missing ground can affect a cars drivabilty.

 

Bump help this dude, that sucks.

 

Check the voltage on your battery with the car off. If is lower then 12.6+. most likely the altenator. but to make sure, start the car, and check the battery. If you're voltage is lower than, let's say, 14.0-13.6, it is the altenator. But since you say it is an old battery, let's replace that first. Just to be on the safe side.
Check voltage, car off, and then on. And tell me what's up.

 

Thanks guys, I will be working on this tomorrow night after work, I will look over the whole thing again and clean up all of the grounds with some sand paper and make sure they are all metal to metal contact. I am also going to ground the battery straight to the motor/trans aswell and see if that help, if any. I have done a fair amount of swaps, and have never had this happen. I commend you for all of your help and it seems to everyone else it is either a ground or alternator. I know the battery is good just needs to be recharged so I figured the alternator would take care of that but if there is a bad ground then the (juice) lets call it is not albe to return to the battery to store power. I will double check EVERYTHING tom after work and try to find a verdict. This is just a garage build with under $750 into the WHole car including motor trans and the car itself so any help would be great. If allworks out it will be at Island Raceway friday night. Thanks guys and bump for all the help.

 

bet its a ground some where

 

thanks guys I am going to figure this out bump

 

I had grounding issues here recently... where the ground bolts to the chassis i took it down to bare metal so it had good contact and that fixed everything... good luck

 

I changed up some grounds and used a different battery, and it worked/fired right up. THe battery must have been shot... Yet the parking lights are still on whent he key is off so everytime i drive it I have to put the positive back on the terminal and off again when I park it. Any comments please let me know

 

I have a 1991 EF sedan and when I would go to put the windsheild wipers on they would go slow as hell. I charged the battery before I took it out for a spin, and ten minutes later, I had to push the car home. I haven't had a chance to take out the alternator and get it tested but I think thats the cause. I know its not my battery because its brand new! Thats my input, hope it helps!