ok my 90 civic si is running rich and possibly flooding i smell gas from the exhaust fumes and just took it for a ride today and after like 5-10 mins i get to a stop and it stalls i let it sit for a few or let it idle for a few and it runs again. it was sitting for the winter outside covered and now runs rich it wasnt running like that be4 i stored it. be4 i stored it i did a oil change put new plugs in it changed the injector resistor box(cause it was flooding) new radiator plus fluid and it ran fine but didnt have the exhaust on yet just a header it did throw a code but never got around to check it. i just put the exhaust on the other day and put the cold air intake on with a bypass valve. the check engine light is on i will try to check it in the morning. i also threw $10 of 93 octane gas in. any ideas as to why it could be running like this after the winter?

please note i had this car for 1 1/2 years be4 i even did anything with it so it wasnt ran plus the previous owner had it sitting on jackstands for who knows how long.
also note it was running rich be4 i put the intake and exhaust on.

 

More the likely it's going to be a code 1.
-Check your ignition timing,
-check for vacuum leaks,
-check your map sensor.

 

k i'll check that any thing else to check?

 

well went to check the check engine light and it wasnt on im going to have to let it run for a while to get it to come back on. and i forget where do i check it by jumping the plug or is it the ecu light? if its by jumping it is the plug on the passenger side where it is on 92-95 civics?

 

Did you check the ECU? Unless you've disconnected the battery recently, it should still be in there when you have the key to IGN-2

 

no i didnt and i didnt disconnect the battery i'll take a look at it today i didnt know it saved the code i thought if the light wasnt on it wouldnt show the code

 

when i checked the code it was just flashing no pauses anyone know what this means? i just put in a fpr, cap/rotor, and wires. i also checked the fuel pressure and it was normal.

 

It'll only ever flash up to 9 times without a pause.

Either that, or it's throwing a code 1 which means it'll flash once and pause between every flash.

If it is a code 1, then your 02 sensor has been tripped. Although it doesn't sound like your o2 sensor is the problem, it must have been running rich to trip it.

Did you check for vacuum leaks at the map sensor?

 

i could of swore it was just constantly flashing no pauses but since then the battery got unplugged and no check engine light has come on yet. is there a code for the ecu cause someone thinks it may be that. ima take a look at the map sensor i may pull one at the yard to test also.

 

You mean the LCD didn't turn off at all? Like, it was constantly on?

If the ECU is ok, then it will flash when the engine primes to start.

Usually the actual map sensor isn't the problem, it's the hose running to it that will probably have a split in it causing a leak (or a blockage).

 

i thought it was just constanly flashing with no pauses but i could have missed the pause hopefully the check engine light will come back on. all the lines going to the map sensor were replaced with blue lines be4 i bought it i will check though to see if there going to the correct locations

 

Check your MAP if its you're taking in air at a different level than your ECU reads it'll stall when your throttle is closed. You can be running rich for that simple reason. In that case, not all of your fuel is properly burned in the cylinder, which makes unburned fuel to combust upon contact with it and melt the cat. converter or make incompletely combusted fuel to leave heavy carbon deposits.

 

i put in a new map and still runs the same checked the voltage and that is good now im thinking its the ecu so hopefully i'll be getting that soon

 

It's probably not the map sensor that's the problem, you said the lines were replaced, are the lines fitted tight?

I don't think swapping the ECU is going to make a difference.

 

yes all lines are tight and in the correct location. i took apart the ecu and one of the chips inside have little indents on it someone said it looks like it got hot.

 

Could be an injector leaking, if it's running so rich that the ECU can't correct, it will toss an O2 code. It is possible for the gasoline that was sitting in the injectors to turn to varnish, which can happen pretty quickly today with the amount of ethanol that is used in gas. Ethanol is hygroscopic, which helps to increase the rate of oxygenation of the gasoline.

 

^ i thought about that also but its all the injectors not just one all the plugs are getting soaked

 

^^ X 3. Since you did have a prior problem which required you to replace the resistor box it may have also led to premature wear on the injectors that is just now presenting itself.
Depending on the damage, you may not get a code for fuel system, but the O2 my fire a code as it may catch something wrong with the fuel content in the exhaust.

 

Check your fuel pressure. Excessive pressure can hinder the closure of the injectors and will cause it to run rich.

 

^ already checked and it was good

*well tried a different ecu and still ran the same then i changed the coolant temp sensor and now it will idle but still running really rich. anything else to check? im going to try a different injector resistor box and after that if nothing then injectors

*checked the ohms on the injector resistor box and it was good and checked the ohms on the injectors and they were good so im gonna soak the injectors in carb & choke cleaner and see what happens next

 

i changed the injectors with ones from a running d16a6 and put in a new fuel filter it seems to be running fine although i only ran it for less than 5 mins but it still runs real rich and it actually back fired and shot a flame out the exhaust im starting to think for some reason i need to get a adjustible fpr even though i shouldnt need it cause its stock minus the exhaust and intake any one got any more ideas lol.

 

^bump any ideas anyone?