Two Easy Ones - Alternator Belt Tension, and Distributor Rotor Replacement - HELP!
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
1) How do you adjust the alternator belt tension?
* I thought all I had to do was loosen the alternator tension adjustment bolt, and then, with a pry bar, push the alternator away from the engine to increase tension (my belt squeaks periodically, but is in good condition) - it won't budge. Is there a pivot bolt that must be loosened? Where is it, pics?
2) Distributor cap, wires, and plugs, all done... but my rotor is 'shrouded' with distributor/electrical stuff. On the replacement, I can see the set screw, and I can see set screw on the original. I cannot reach it with a screw driver, and I Don't think I could get it with an allen key, but didn't have any to try (didn't cross my mind until I put the cap back on).
I will try to upload pictures in minute!
Help!
Haynes was useless, I guess I have the 'other kind' of distributor.
91CRX HF.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
*edit*
It looks like the top most thing is the 'Ignition Coil', and the bottom thing is the 'Leak Cover'. Are these typically removed on a CRX for a rotor install?
* I thought all I had to do was loosen the alternator tension adjustment bolt, and then, with a pry bar, push the alternator away from the engine to increase tension (my belt squeaks periodically, but is in good condition) - it won't budge. Is there a pivot bolt that must be loosened? Where is it, pics?
2) Distributor cap, wires, and plugs, all done... but my rotor is 'shrouded' with distributor/electrical stuff. On the replacement, I can see the set screw, and I can see set screw on the original. I cannot reach it with a screw driver, and I Don't think I could get it with an allen key, but didn't have any to try (didn't cross my mind until I put the cap back on).
I will try to upload pictures in minute!
Help!
Haynes was useless, I guess I have the 'other kind' of distributor.91CRX HF.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
*edit*
It looks like the top most thing is the 'Ignition Coil', and the bottom thing is the 'Leak Cover'. Are these typically removed on a CRX for a rotor install?
Last edited by phoenix_iii; Mar 8, 2009 at 04:25 PM.
just rotate the motor by hand untill you can access the rotor screw. or just take the dizzy off its only 3 bolts and get at it that way. the alt main bolt also has to be loosened first before you can adjust it. its lower down on the alt.
Thread Starter
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
So,
1) Pull the distributor (3 bolts, I found that via the Honda Factory manual PDF just recently) and get at it that way... Is there easier access somewhere else, from some other angle? It looks pretty covered all the way around. [Alternatively, rotate the engine until it's at that PERFECT spot to access the set screw]
2) There IS a pivot bolt on the alternator... where? Can you see it from a top down view? Do I have to remove the wheel (splash guard too?) to see it? Is that the best way?
Thank you!
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
Just for Clarity, I had both OEM dust covers in place (bottom plastic cover). Remove them, then either rotate the motor by hand, or blip the starter and check it. Worked fine!
hey, ive got a problem with this sorta too, my set screw keeps coming out, ive put medium lock tight on it and it stayed on for about a year and now it came off a couple of weeks ago and i just havnt got around to putting it back on, anyone know if that screw is messed up or something, thanks
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
hey, ive got a problem with this sorta too, my set screw keeps coming out, ive put medium lock tight on it and it stayed on for about a year and now it came off a couple of weeks ago and i just havnt got around to putting it back on, anyone know if that screw is messed up or something, thanks
Last edited by phoenix_iii; Mar 25, 2009 at 10:29 AM.
For the alt, you dont need to remove any plastic covers.
There is a 14mm pivot bolt on the bottom of the alt that needs to be just broken loose for adjustment, then tightened again after you tighten the top one. Its pretty easy to see with the driver's side front wheel off.
There is a 14mm pivot bolt on the bottom of the alt that needs to be just broken loose for adjustment, then tightened again after you tighten the top one. Its pretty easy to see with the driver's side front wheel off.
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Thread Starter
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
For the alt, you dont need to remove any plastic covers.
There is a 14mm pivot bolt on the bottom of the alt that needs to be just broken loose for adjustment, then tightened again after you tighten the top one. Its pretty easy to see with the driver's side front wheel off.
There is a 14mm pivot bolt on the bottom of the alt that needs to be just broken loose for adjustment, then tightened again after you tighten the top one. Its pretty easy to see with the driver's side front wheel off.
Plastic dust cover = Distributor Rotor replacement!
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Wow. Anyone else see how people speed read and then mis-interpret? Now we are on Distributor set screws? Neat!
(Though I do appreciate the helpful and thought out posts, a refreshing breeze)
(Though I do appreciate the helpful and thought out posts, a refreshing breeze)
Did you happen to notice that you asked about the rotor and replacing it, and the fact it is held on with a set screw? Someone in your thread mentioned theres wont stay tight, so a Edit: LADY offered some useful information on her thoughts of how to take care of that. It must just be different wording that had you thinking your thread turned to a different subject, when it really hasnt?
Have a good one!
Have a good one!
Last edited by gator88; Mar 25, 2009 at 04:00 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Close to West Chester, PA, United States of America
*Lol, I confused two threads and didn't read!
*edit* because I confused two different threads!
*edit* because I confused two different threads!
The rotor set screw failing to hold is a pretty common problem on older Civics. I had this problem in 2002-2003 on my 91 Civic. I found Loctite does not work long if at all. Most likely the threads in the dizzy housing shaft are stripped; they were on mine. The best solution is to buy a new OEM dizzy housing. I do not think I would bother with junkyard ones. The drawback is that a new OEM housing will run a couple hundred dollars or more from the OEM online sites for 88-91 Civics. But the advantages are plenty: Not only is the rotor screw problem fixed, but the dizzy housing holds three engine control sensors and wiring that IMO degrade over time, and so these will be brand new with a new housing, too. You also get a new oil seal and dizzy shaft bearing, both of which often fail on older dizzies and require either dizzy surgery or else a whole new housing. My miles per gallon shot up after I replaced the housing with an OEM one (and also put in a new igniter and ignition coil). IMO the dizzy housing should be replaced every 10 years/150k miles.
There is one alternative that will hold you for awhile: Drill a hole through the dizzy housing shaft where the rotor fits on. Use a cotter pin to hold the rotor in place. This worked fine for several months on my 91 Civic. Then the car started having what turned out to be coil problems. Not knowing any better, a shop replaced the dizzy housing and coil. I put in a new igniter, on their advice. In hindsight, I think the shop made the right call. I just wish I had known a little more so it had not cost me an arm and a leg for the shop's labor back in 2003. The labor is easy if one is reasonably experienced with car electrical connectors, the shop manual, a torque wrench and so on.
There is one alternative that will hold you for awhile: Drill a hole through the dizzy housing shaft where the rotor fits on. Use a cotter pin to hold the rotor in place. This worked fine for several months on my 91 Civic. Then the car started having what turned out to be coil problems. Not knowing any better, a shop replaced the dizzy housing and coil. I put in a new igniter, on their advice. In hindsight, I think the shop made the right call. I just wish I had known a little more so it had not cost me an arm and a leg for the shop's labor back in 2003. The labor is easy if one is reasonably experienced with car electrical connectors, the shop manual, a torque wrench and so on.
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vietelement
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Feb 25, 2008 06:01 PM
91, accord, adjust, adjusting, alternator, belt, bolt, broke, del, distributer, electrical, honda, integra, loose, problems, serpentine, sol, tensioner




