Starting circuitry problems.
So... this is a bit of a long story... here it goes...
Last week, I was putting in my upper control arm poly bushings. Once done with that, I saw a bolt that was loose on the top of the transmission... Hmm so i'll tighten it... It was right by the starter, where the 12v comes straight from the battery. I put my 12mm and ratchet on the bastard and tightened it right up... in the process i accidentally leaned the wrench to the side and hit that 12v post on the starter.... the transmission being grounded completed a circuit.
The confusion will soon come.
I got in the car... car wouldnt crank. So i had it push started. It ran. woo. I just messed up the started no biggie. So i thought. I drove down the highway and started losing all lights. The alternator wasnt giving power to the car. So I took it back to the garage. And started looking over everything. Cant find a damn thing wrong.
I Replaced the starter cut relay, main relay, starter, I HAVE a new alternator, but im not seeing that as the issue. And the damn car STILL will not crank. Please help.
Yes I checked all fuses. And did some quick checks with my multi meter. I looked over the schmetic in the haynes manual and I dont see where the problem could lie.
The car is a 1992 civic dx. I'm getting quite aggrevated that 1 QUICK spark could cause such problems.
Any ideas to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.
Last week, I was putting in my upper control arm poly bushings. Once done with that, I saw a bolt that was loose on the top of the transmission... Hmm so i'll tighten it... It was right by the starter, where the 12v comes straight from the battery. I put my 12mm and ratchet on the bastard and tightened it right up... in the process i accidentally leaned the wrench to the side and hit that 12v post on the starter.... the transmission being grounded completed a circuit.
The confusion will soon come.
I got in the car... car wouldnt crank. So i had it push started. It ran. woo. I just messed up the started no biggie. So i thought. I drove down the highway and started losing all lights. The alternator wasnt giving power to the car. So I took it back to the garage. And started looking over everything. Cant find a damn thing wrong.
I Replaced the starter cut relay, main relay, starter, I HAVE a new alternator, but im not seeing that as the issue. And the damn car STILL will not crank. Please help.
Yes I checked all fuses. And did some quick checks with my multi meter. I looked over the schmetic in the haynes manual and I dont see where the problem could lie.
The car is a 1992 civic dx. I'm getting quite aggrevated that 1 QUICK spark could cause such problems.
Any ideas to point me in the right direction would be appreciated.
you popped a 80amp fuse(i think its 80) check under the hood fusebox look in the glass look portion of the fuse or get your test light out hook it up to negative on your battery and check both sides for a positive signal
visibly checked all fuses... but i'll take it out and check it for resistance...
any more ideas? I just cant see how i quick spark could burn a wire or something else that'd be a PITA like that.
LoL, this just happened to me today, same exact thing....while tightening the same bolt....i hit the clutch line and bam.....nothing wanted to work....it was the 80A fuse on the engine bay fuse box. but i still have no spark and no fuel...no gauge lights...idk why
Thats odd... because I have fuel and gauge lights. Ecu is working... check your main relay. I need to check that fuse, but that fuse doesnt make sence in my case because i still have power to the rest of the car.
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Edit:
The Blk starter wire you grounded is wired directly to the battery and is not protected by a fuse. Therefore, you may have fried the Blk wire or the battery. Start testing for continuity on the Blk wire and also thoroughly clean the battery posts, connectors, and chassis ground wire with steel wool. Then take your battery for testing at the local auto parts store.
The Blk starter wire you grounded is wired directly to the battery and is not protected by a fuse. Therefore, you may have fried the Blk wire or the battery. Start testing for continuity on the Blk wire and also thoroughly clean the battery posts, connectors, and chassis ground wire with steel wool. Then take your battery for testing at the local auto parts store.
Last edited by Former User; Mar 9, 2009 at 11:11 AM.
It seems like the alternator. You said it was new, but was it on when you arced the starter wire?
Get a volt meter and check voltage on everything: battery, alternator, starter.
I would also check your ignition. If your ignition isn't getting power, the car will simply crank. It's the 2-wire plug on the shock tower. It supplies power to your ignition upon startup. Check voltage on that plug to confirm your ignition is getting juice. If it isn't, it's a fuse issue.
You will likely need a friend to help you while you check voltage. Especially if you will have to crank it over while checking. Take your time and be thorough. Do not eliminate or overlook anything.
GL
-XLR8
Get a volt meter and check voltage on everything: battery, alternator, starter.
I would also check your ignition. If your ignition isn't getting power, the car will simply crank. It's the 2-wire plug on the shock tower. It supplies power to your ignition upon startup. Check voltage on that plug to confirm your ignition is getting juice. If it isn't, it's a fuse issue.
You will likely need a friend to help you while you check voltage. Especially if you will have to crank it over while checking. Take your time and be thorough. Do not eliminate or overlook anything.
GL
-XLR8
i agree on checking the power wire, since its not fused. the 80 in the fuse box would be the next to go...
changing the alternator is cake, check the two already mentioned, then change the alternator and let us know...
changing the alternator is cake, check the two already mentioned, then change the alternator and let us know...
the starter is getting power... i verified it via multimeter. I'm going to check the 80 amp with an ohmmeter and we'll go from there... i'll keep you posted.
Did you additionally check for battery voltage on the Blk/Wht starter wire when the key is turned to ON(III)?
I have the day off tomorrow so I'll be working on this POS and keeping everyone posed.
voltage on black signal wire to starter solenoid is good (12.8V)
I checked the 80 amp fuse as well as every other fuse in the car and they're all turning up good on resistance check. Im at a total loss... Im about to jump the starter poles to attempt to start the car... then we'll go from there
I checked the 80 amp fuse as well as every other fuse in the car and they're all turning up good on resistance check. Im at a total loss... Im about to jump the starter poles to attempt to start the car... then we'll go from there
ok. so after a week of bs i found the retarded problem...
when i said i checked the trans ground... i checked it totally wrong... And im guessing that when this arc happened, it kinda fouled the connection between the ground cable and chassis... I cleaned up the surfaces(wire wheeled to bare metal)... and woo it started... lol what a stupid problem. oh well... it was a learning experience. Thanks for all the help.
when i said i checked the trans ground... i checked it totally wrong... And im guessing that when this arc happened, it kinda fouled the connection between the ground cable and chassis... I cleaned up the surfaces(wire wheeled to bare metal)... and woo it started... lol what a stupid problem. oh well... it was a learning experience. Thanks for all the help.
Last edited by SOHCNightmare; Mar 12, 2009 at 10:54 AM.
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