Finally dynoed it again. Check out the results.
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From: Rockville, MD, USA
Finally dynoed it again. Check out the results.
I don't consider this a build thread because it is relevant only to my boost setup, not the whole car
It's been 2 years since I last dynoed and tuned my car. The first time was with my first boost setup. Which yielded expected results. At the time the mods were:
Bone stock D17a1 non vtec
Dezod EL manifold
T3 super 60 garrett turbo
SF charge pipes and FMIC
RSX-S injectors
Greddy Emanage full setup with boost sensor
Greddy profec boost control (although I was running wastegate spring pressure)
Tial wastegate
HKS SSQV
Removed cat and greddy exhaust
with this setup it produced just shy of 170 fwhp and 141 ft/tq
the dyno graph REALLY shows the limitation of the stock cam, you can clearly see where it was meant to be shifted.
Anyways, it was great for a while, finally blew a headgasket because of the emanagles inability to be reliable, not only that but I got tired of constantly trying to avoid part throttle boost. Shortly after, due to an oil leak i wasnt ever able to figure out, I spun a bearing.
I suppose this is where it escalated. I bought a junkyard motor, another D17a1 and a vtec head. I wanted to keep the lower compression non-vtec pistons, which is why i didnt go out and buy an A2 to begin with. I rebuilt the new motor to stock specs, again using an entirely stock bottom end, ARP head studs and dropped the VTEC head on with crower valve springs and retainers, new seals and a crower stage 2 boost cam.
while I was at it I picked up a Hondata Kpro and did my return fuel conversion with an aeromotive FPR and walbro fuel pump. At this point I decided that it was a good idea to keep a good thing going, so I also invested in an exedy flywheel and stage 1 clutch. Dropped it all back in. Over the past year ive been tweaking things here and there, doing some street tuning, reworking some existing components.
Added RDX 410cc injectors in place of my RSXS 310cc injectors, rewired my primary o2 sensor to a stock wideband setup to make tuning from the Kpro easy. Dropped in a new turbo (same specs, just new) and fitted it with a V-band and a much better made DP. Most recently my stock radiator sprung a leak, so I got a koyo and fitted the slim fans I already had.
Finally over the weekend a local crew was having a drive and dyno day. During the day i did as much street tuning as i could, datalogged everything and set my boost and fuel figures to perfection as much as I could before throwing it on the dyno. so without further ado:
MOST CURRENT SETUP (THIS IS TO AVOID PM's) IF YOU DON'T SEE IT, I DON'T HAVE IT.
Acura RDX 410cc injectors w/scion tC plugs
SF intercooler/custom pipes
T3 super 60 .48 a/r
HONDATA KPRO w/AEM tru-time cam gear
Defi Boost gauge
hks ssqv bov
Tial 38mm blue wastegate w/.4BAR spring
Custom SS open dump tube
Denso Iridium IK20's
AEM wideband a/f gauge
Golden Eagle Vacuum manifold
Golden Eagle Oil feed plate
Golden Eagle blue oil cap LOLZ
Dezod EL manifold jet-hot coated sterling
Custom Upper radiator hose re-route
Custom 2.5" Downpipe
Customized Moroso vented oil catch can
Vtec head swap w/custom oem solenoid and pressure switch wiring
Crower Titanium springs and retainers
ARP head studs
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Exedy lightened flywheel
Crower stage 2 turbo cam
Slim line fans
return fuel conversion
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro 255lph HP in tank pump
OEM wideband primary o2 to AFR sensor conversion
Greddy Evo 2 cat back
Koyo racing aluminum radiator
I was expecting 220 at most..
240 whp and 209 ft/lb tq just shy of 9.5 psi keeping my AFR's considerably rich, roughly 10.5-11 AFR under any boost. I couldve easily gotten more power from leaning it out a tad bit across the range, but considering Im running a stock bottom end, Im playing it safe. at full tilt 1st and 2nd gear are useless. and my already upgraded 11" front rotors have a hard time stopping me.
Things to consider: I am an ASE certified mechanic. I am confident in my engine building and tuning abilities. I have taken the required steps to ensure proper and safe operation of my motor. Do not attempt to tune your own car if you don't know how. Never boost a car and drive it hard without a proper tune. I will not share my tune with anyone so do not ask for it.
It's been 2 years since I last dynoed and tuned my car. The first time was with my first boost setup. Which yielded expected results. At the time the mods were:
Bone stock D17a1 non vtec
Dezod EL manifold
T3 super 60 garrett turbo
SF charge pipes and FMIC
RSX-S injectors
Greddy Emanage full setup with boost sensor
Greddy profec boost control (although I was running wastegate spring pressure)
Tial wastegate
HKS SSQV
Removed cat and greddy exhaust
with this setup it produced just shy of 170 fwhp and 141 ft/tq
the dyno graph REALLY shows the limitation of the stock cam, you can clearly see where it was meant to be shifted.
Anyways, it was great for a while, finally blew a headgasket because of the emanagles inability to be reliable, not only that but I got tired of constantly trying to avoid part throttle boost. Shortly after, due to an oil leak i wasnt ever able to figure out, I spun a bearing.
I suppose this is where it escalated. I bought a junkyard motor, another D17a1 and a vtec head. I wanted to keep the lower compression non-vtec pistons, which is why i didnt go out and buy an A2 to begin with. I rebuilt the new motor to stock specs, again using an entirely stock bottom end, ARP head studs and dropped the VTEC head on with crower valve springs and retainers, new seals and a crower stage 2 boost cam.
while I was at it I picked up a Hondata Kpro and did my return fuel conversion with an aeromotive FPR and walbro fuel pump. At this point I decided that it was a good idea to keep a good thing going, so I also invested in an exedy flywheel and stage 1 clutch. Dropped it all back in. Over the past year ive been tweaking things here and there, doing some street tuning, reworking some existing components.
Added RDX 410cc injectors in place of my RSXS 310cc injectors, rewired my primary o2 sensor to a stock wideband setup to make tuning from the Kpro easy. Dropped in a new turbo (same specs, just new) and fitted it with a V-band and a much better made DP. Most recently my stock radiator sprung a leak, so I got a koyo and fitted the slim fans I already had.
Finally over the weekend a local crew was having a drive and dyno day. During the day i did as much street tuning as i could, datalogged everything and set my boost and fuel figures to perfection as much as I could before throwing it on the dyno. so without further ado:
MOST CURRENT SETUP (THIS IS TO AVOID PM's) IF YOU DON'T SEE IT, I DON'T HAVE IT.
Acura RDX 410cc injectors w/scion tC plugs
SF intercooler/custom pipes
T3 super 60 .48 a/r
HONDATA KPRO w/AEM tru-time cam gear
Defi Boost gauge
hks ssqv bov
Tial 38mm blue wastegate w/.4BAR spring
Custom SS open dump tube
Denso Iridium IK20's
AEM wideband a/f gauge
Golden Eagle Vacuum manifold
Golden Eagle Oil feed plate
Golden Eagle blue oil cap LOLZ
Dezod EL manifold jet-hot coated sterling
Custom Upper radiator hose re-route
Custom 2.5" Downpipe
Customized Moroso vented oil catch can
Vtec head swap w/custom oem solenoid and pressure switch wiring
Crower Titanium springs and retainers
ARP head studs
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Exedy lightened flywheel
Crower stage 2 turbo cam
Slim line fans
return fuel conversion
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro 255lph HP in tank pump
OEM wideband primary o2 to AFR sensor conversion
Greddy Evo 2 cat back
Koyo racing aluminum radiator
I was expecting 220 at most..
240 whp and 209 ft/lb tq just shy of 9.5 psi keeping my AFR's considerably rich, roughly 10.5-11 AFR under any boost. I couldve easily gotten more power from leaning it out a tad bit across the range, but considering Im running a stock bottom end, Im playing it safe. at full tilt 1st and 2nd gear are useless. and my already upgraded 11" front rotors have a hard time stopping me.
Things to consider: I am an ASE certified mechanic. I am confident in my engine building and tuning abilities. I have taken the required steps to ensure proper and safe operation of my motor. Do not attempt to tune your own car if you don't know how. Never boost a car and drive it hard without a proper tune. I will not share my tune with anyone so do not ask for it.
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