hello i have a 1994 integra. i have a turbo kit and im getting ready to install it, should i do internals? what kind of psi could i run on a stock motor and if i run stock should i change the rail,injectors and other stuff? im new to the whole boost world so any help would be nice,

does anyone have a good recomended setup for a stock motor

the car runs fine,
the turbo kit i have is a T3T4 with hsk intercooler and 3" pipeing tial external wastegate and blitz bov

i would really like for someone to tell me exactaly what i need to buy to make this run good, im not looking for a rocket or a lifetime car just wanna have some fun but still be a daily driver,

what i was going to do now is,

run stock motor
change the rail and use bigger injectors
port and polish the head and use a think gasket to lower compression
run better plugs
big exhaust
a/f gauge
boost gauge


i really need some help here

thanks

 

dont forget your fuel pump. ems? ive seen good tunes with AEM EMS, or you could go with Hondata, etc, etc.

 

ok you dont have to do the rail you cant make 400 hp with the stock motor but think about a fuel regulator. what you need to do is to run a piggy back like a greddy emanage and get it dyno tune. aem wide band dsm injectors cometic (dont lower your compression its fine the way it is its only 9.1:1) head gasket arp head studs 255 fuel pump cool plugs (the cheap ngk v power change every oil change) dont waste the money on a port and polish job you will only gain about 3-5% hp as for exhaust you can run 60mm to 70mm missing link if you plan on running more than 8-10 psi i would say do a forged internal if you want to run more than 12-15psi do a good block guard (the cheap way over heating could become and issue) or go with a set of darton or golden eagle sleeves or if you want to go all out get a dart block and a vtec head dont wast your money on an ls head it will never flow like a vtec and for the my choice of vtec heads get a b16 its the same cast as the type r but cheaper and go with 1mm oversized stainless steel valves with dual spring and titanium retainers and cams is all up to you but i would say get one with high lift and a short duration a little over lap isnt bad but it depends on how you want the power to kick in but stick with a 9:1 to a 9.5:1 compression if you have any questions pm me i know enough about boost because i have done 4 sr20's and built 2 turbo gsr's and im build a ls/vtec for my 4 door teggy

 

oh yea i also boosted a completely stock ls with a greddy emanage and it held 12 psi but it was tuned on a dyno it was really reliable but it had only 40,000 miles on it and he didnt drive it a lot because it had a really nice body kit and indiana roads are not the kindest to cars with body kits that car ran a full turbonetics turbo kit and the emanage and an apexi exhaust test pipe and aem wideband

 

1. You can run the stock engine. You're limited to around 300whp safely if tuned properly.
2. Leave the fuel rail alone. It will support more power than you're going to make. Hell, i'm still running mine and haven't considered changing it.
3. Don't bother porting the head...the stock VTEC head is a great one already. If you have a non-VTEC, you may consider getting Crower 404 cams. Other than that, leave it alone for now. As for the headgasket, just run the stock one. There's no need to lower the compression
4. Better plugs for you would be NGK BKR7e's (6097)
5. Run a 3" Exhaust
6. A/F gauge is nice, but not 100% necessary
7. Autometer Boost gauge will work well for you and save you some $$

**You say you have 3" piping and then list your intercooler...are you running 3" intercooler piping?? If so, that's too large for your setup. I would sell that and get a set of 2.5"

 

I have a Z-Dyne Gold SECU for sale... it's good for minor set-ups like you're looking to run and pretty inexpensive. It has the ability to control vtec, nitrous, boost etc etc etc. Here's a link if you're interested:
https://post.craigslist.org/manage/1065964611/jnnnr

 

a/g in my oppinion is worthless its just a bunch of different colored leds and doesnt give you an actual reading like and aem wide band so scratch the a/f gauge off the list

 

oh yea get a boost controller if you can afford it get an electronic if not get a manual

 

very interesting stuff alot of help toward my project

bump!

 

Great info, yea when i turbo my gsr i'm gonna keep stock internals and run around 7psi. There's some great turbo kits out there. I'm from aus and i've noticed it's much easier to ssource these kits over in the US. you guys have it easy

 

if ur compression is good then do it...but u have to check your compression first

 

im boostingf my b18c rite now and i got good results just buy getting fuel rail adjustable fuel reg and an fmu its way cheaper thsan going hondata or a piggyback unless u want to run high boost then go the expensive route

 

This thread is getting off topic. If you need more information, head over to the Forced Induction forum.