Car shakes under load
ok I have a gsr swapped eg hatch and I can feel the wheels shaking while accelerating. Once the car is past about 4k it feels like it stops shaking and drives much smoother. It is really bad when I shift from 2nd to 3rd the car will shake bad at low rpm until I get load off the car.
I have tried 2 new sets of advanced axles I was thinking about going with a set of driveshaft shops, because I have been told it is probably just garbage axles.
new tie rod ends.
all the wheels are balanced with good tires/rims
I know I need new struts/springs would this be causing my car to shake under acceleration.
When I look at the suspension it looks like the driver side axle is kind of binding when the car would be on the ground, could anyone tell me what could be causing this.
I have tried 2 new sets of advanced axles I was thinking about going with a set of driveshaft shops, because I have been told it is probably just garbage axles.
new tie rod ends.
all the wheels are balanced with good tires/rims
I know I need new struts/springs would this be causing my car to shake under acceleration.
When I look at the suspension it looks like the driver side axle is kind of binding when the car would be on the ground, could anyone tell me what could be causing this.
Having the same problem as you. Didn't have the problem with the D series motor in it, swapped the LS in, now I have a mild vibration under acceleration from 20-40 mph. Vehicle speed related, not engine speed related.
I've now replaced both axles, the intermediate shaft and tried 3 different wheel/tire combos on the car.
No other parts of the suspension or motor mounts have been changed since the D series was in.
I was thinking maybe input shaft bearing on the transmission, but did a search and found most people with input shaft bearing failure report noises and difficulty shifting, not vibrations.
Thought maybe there's a problem with the clutch or flywheel, but then the vibration would be tied to engine speed, not vehicle speed.
Any other ideas?
I've now replaced both axles, the intermediate shaft and tried 3 different wheel/tire combos on the car.
No other parts of the suspension or motor mounts have been changed since the D series was in.
I was thinking maybe input shaft bearing on the transmission, but did a search and found most people with input shaft bearing failure report noises and difficulty shifting, not vibrations.
Thought maybe there's a problem with the clutch or flywheel, but then the vibration would be tied to engine speed, not vehicle speed.
Any other ideas?
Having the same problem as you. Didn't have the problem with the D series motor in it, swapped the LS in, now I have a mild vibration under acceleration from 20-40 mph. Vehicle speed related, not engine speed related.
I've now replaced both axles, the intermediate shaft and tried 3 different wheel/tire combos on the car.
No other parts of the suspension or motor mounts have been changed since the D series was in.
I was thinking maybe input shaft bearing on the transmission, but did a search and found most people with input shaft bearing failure report noises and difficulty shifting, not vibrations.
Thought maybe there's a problem with the clutch or flywheel, but then the vibration would be tied to engine speed, not vehicle speed.
Any other ideas?
I've now replaced both axles, the intermediate shaft and tried 3 different wheel/tire combos on the car.
No other parts of the suspension or motor mounts have been changed since the D series was in.
I was thinking maybe input shaft bearing on the transmission, but did a search and found most people with input shaft bearing failure report noises and difficulty shifting, not vibrations.
Thought maybe there's a problem with the clutch or flywheel, but then the vibration would be tied to engine speed, not vehicle speed.
Any other ideas?
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One person suggested worn differential bearings, which seems like a pretty plausible answer. Do your axles seem like they have more play where they enter the transmisson than they should?
Diff bushings are an interesting idea...
Sports Car magazine (the one put out by SCCA) had a really thorough article talking about CV joints. One thing they point out is that a worn joint will leave grooves in the outer part (I can't remember the terminology) When the axle is rebuilt, they put in new bearings, grease it and put it on the shelf. The only problem with those is that the outer part still has grooves which cause the new parts to catch and generally feel lousy.
My point is that you can try a truck-load of axles and still have the same problem.
When I bought my first set of Drive Shaft Shop axles (stage one drag axles) I did it to get away from the constant garbage I was getting. I loved them. I hadn't felt smooth axles in a long time and I knew they were totally worth it. I later upgraded to the Race Axles and they were smoother still. (The Race axles are designed to run at lower temps for road course racing, which is what I do with my civic, but are not designed to be used for drag racing).
One last point, if your car is lowered, that moves the the CV joint to an angle that is not normal. The rebuilt axles that you get are probably from cars that were not lowered which would cause them to be worn differently than if the car were lowered. Going back to my comment about the worn grooves, this would be a good source of vibration.
Sports Car magazine (the one put out by SCCA) had a really thorough article talking about CV joints. One thing they point out is that a worn joint will leave grooves in the outer part (I can't remember the terminology) When the axle is rebuilt, they put in new bearings, grease it and put it on the shelf. The only problem with those is that the outer part still has grooves which cause the new parts to catch and generally feel lousy.
My point is that you can try a truck-load of axles and still have the same problem.
When I bought my first set of Drive Shaft Shop axles (stage one drag axles) I did it to get away from the constant garbage I was getting. I loved them. I hadn't felt smooth axles in a long time and I knew they were totally worth it. I later upgraded to the Race Axles and they were smoother still. (The Race axles are designed to run at lower temps for road course racing, which is what I do with my civic, but are not designed to be used for drag racing).
One last point, if your car is lowered, that moves the the CV joint to an angle that is not normal. The rebuilt axles that you get are probably from cars that were not lowered which would cause them to be worn differently than if the car were lowered. Going back to my comment about the worn grooves, this would be a good source of vibration.
Im willing to put money on it that its your wheel bearing! Sounds exactly the same as the problem I just finished fixing and I did the same exact things you guys did. I replaced pretty much everything up front... Then decided to do wheel bearings, That solved it! hahah Hard part is finding someone to press out the old and press in the new ones that charges a decent price.
Im willing to put money on it that its your wheel bearing! Sounds exactly the same as the problem I just finished fixing and I did the same exact things you guys did. I replaced pretty much everything up front... Then decided to do wheel bearings, That solved it! hahah Hard part is finding someone to press out the old and press in the new ones that charges a decent price.
Sports Car magazine (the one put out by SCCA) had a really thorough article talking about CV joints. One thing they point out is that a worn joint will leave grooves in the outer part (I can't remember the terminology) When the axle is rebuilt, they put in new bearings, grease it and put it on the shelf. The only problem with those is that the outer part still has grooves which cause the new parts to catch and generally feel lousy.
My point is that you can try a truck-load of axles and still have the same problem.
My point is that you can try a truck-load of axles and still have the same problem.
In my experience, you feel the symptoms of a failed wheel bearing in almost all situations, not just under acceleration from speed A to speed B. They vibrations come primarily through the steering wheel and are usually the worst under braking.
In my case, it HAS to be something in the drivetrain, because I didn't have the problem when the y8 was in the car.
Ya I am hoping that it is just bad axles. I think since my car is lowered that it binds up the cv joint so bad that it shakes. I am getting drive shop axles and some mounts tomorrow, I am about to go to NTB and have an alignment and hvae everything looked at on the front end suspension. I have not tried a new intermeadiate shaft but I have been thinking about it. I really appreciate everyone responding lets keep this thread going so we can fix out damn problem.
I am to the point where I just want to put my swap in my crx shell and give up on my money pit 93 si
I am to the point where I just want to put my swap in my crx shell and give up on my money pit 93 si
i had the same problem. the shaking stop once i past 4k rpm. replaced axle, inner and outer tirerod, ballance tires, alignment, energy suspension bushing, etc. then i tried replacing my upper control arm and noticed that my front camber kit has a slight play. i had the spc anchor type camber kit. replaced the camber kit and upper control arm and problem went away.
So good to hear you are having the same problems
My comes form the front left tire under hard acceleration. Under normal or braking its fine no vibration at all, At WOT starts about 5 till 8 it shakes so horribly its even scary like the wheels is about fly out or something.. I replace mounts b.c I knew they were bad. I could feel the motor rock back and forth when I had my hand on the shifter.
New axels
New mounts (shifter is stiff)
Different wheels (OEM )
My next thing is going to be wheel bearings
The only other thing I can think of is my strut tower is ripped were it connects to the chassis (not rusted but cracked, it has about an 1” gap about 4” long I plan on welding it back down and slapping a password 3point brace
Can any one give more info about this diff worn out ?? I got an LSD but when I put the axels in I didn’t feel any difference from other times..
My comes form the front left tire under hard acceleration. Under normal or braking its fine no vibration at all, At WOT starts about 5 till 8 it shakes so horribly its even scary like the wheels is about fly out or something.. I replace mounts b.c I knew they were bad. I could feel the motor rock back and forth when I had my hand on the shifter.
New axels
New mounts (shifter is stiff)
Different wheels (OEM )
My next thing is going to be wheel bearings
The only other thing I can think of is my strut tower is ripped were it connects to the chassis (not rusted but cracked, it has about an 1” gap about 4” long I plan on welding it back down and slapping a password 3point brace
Can any one give more info about this diff worn out ?? I got an LSD but when I put the axels in I didn’t feel any difference from other times..
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