wtf?! No Color?!?!?
Im building a 2jz manifold right now and for some reason I'm getting barely any coloring at all and its really disappointing lol. The only thing that's weird about this manifold is that its thin wall tubing 16g 304ss. I'm using a gas lense and backpurging. I have tried using all of my larger cups and even checked to make sure the gas lense wasn't clogged. I have been super **** about my torch angle and it has been spot on for the most part and I have messed with gas flow from 10-30cfh and still the coloring sucks.
I also used some scrap to test out the differences between ER316L and ER308L and there is no difference.
I don't understand, I have never had this problem before. Any of the welding gurus wanna chime in and tell me what I'm doing wrong here? I realize coloring isn't the most important thing in the world but I would still like to have more that I am getting. Here is a pic to show you (i know its not a great weld but it was the best coloring example). Any help would be appreciated!
I also used some scrap to test out the differences between ER316L and ER308L and there is no difference.
I don't understand, I have never had this problem before. Any of the welding gurus wanna chime in and tell me what I'm doing wrong here? I realize coloring isn't the most important thing in the world but I would still like to have more that I am getting. Here is a pic to show you (i know its not a great weld but it was the best coloring example). Any help would be appreciated!
Last edited by PTPbracket; Mar 8, 2009 at 09:45 PM.
+1
I think you need JDM filler rod.
In all honesty though, you probably need a bigger cup. #8 is ok, #10 is even better. a gas lense helps too. don't pull the filler rod out from under the cup, etc.
I think you need JDM filler rod.
In all honesty though, you probably need a bigger cup. #8 is ok, #10 is even better. a gas lense helps too. don't pull the filler rod out from under the cup, etc.
use the biggest cup you have, tip your torch angle back a little bit more with a little bit more stickout and ride the back edge of your cup on the tubing. The added steadyness provided by skidding your cup should allow you to move faster which will help you avoid heatsoaking the material. Tipping the cup back with a little bit more stickout will gain you some trailing gas coverage as well. Oh don't dab your filler. PUSH/RAM/SHOVE it into the puddle without ever pulling it out. If you like dimes you can run over your filler while moving your torch in a stepping motion or a little bit of a forward/backward whip.
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Well thanks for chiming in. He knows he can do better and he wants to know how. That's not cocky that's just not having an, "oh hell that's good enough" mentality. How do you think the ninja welders of the world got so good?
It definitely looks a tad hot with possibly gas flow too low or post purge too short. Your restarts are pink (i.e cooler and shielded long to cool down), but your finishes are dark blue/purple which is a premature post purge finish. It's still too hot and being exposed early.
It also looks like you might have slight tungsten contamination. I see a mild grittiness in the weld. That or your pulling the filler out of the shield while its red hot. There is a problem there.
It's a nice weld, but the fact he's recognizing there is an issue is good too.
It also looks like you might have slight tungsten contamination. I see a mild grittiness in the weld. That or your pulling the filler out of the shield while its red hot. There is a problem there.
It's a nice weld, but the fact he's recognizing there is an issue is good too.
No it's not. you should be able to run the weld in 1/4s, 1/3s or 1/2s without stopping and postflow really only matters on the last 1/2in of weld maybe. If you have to stop every 1/2 inch and rely on postflow to cover your weld while it cools you are way to hot and way to slow.
RCOOE explained what your problems very likely are. All the tricks/tips in my first post should be the cure required if he is right.
I've never seen a bad tank of straight argon. only bad tanks I've ever seen are trimix and c25. It usually gets jacked up in the mixing process.
Last edited by ManBearPig4silly; Mar 6, 2009 at 02:22 PM.
Ok thanks guys. RC000E and ManBear, I will try what yall said, I hope that's it. Paul-R I don't know how you got me being cocky from my post. I was asking a question regarding one of many flaws in my welds. Anyways thanks guys!
thank you, this guy is paying a lot for this manifold and I know I would expect uniform (stacked dime) and colorful welds for the price. You gotta realize that most people aren't welders and they want that "look".
Brushed out welds look better than colored ones to me. Everyone wants 'clean' this and 'clean' that but wants their stainless parts to look like a bag of skittles melted on it.
Has a lot to do with the filler as well, if you are using smaller gauge stuff, you need super thin filler, or else you will be heating up the pipe to much.
um correct me if im wrong, but thats not a picture of your current weld or even possibly one of your welds? youve attached the image and are saying here is what im talking about, why isnt my weld looking like this picture......because you clearly say at the end "but it was the best coloring EXAMPLE"
and everyone is commenting like thats your weld your having problems with......because obviously the image you posted has tons of coloring !


and everyone is commenting like thats your weld your having problems with......because obviously the image you posted has tons of coloring !





