someone told me about this. i am wondering what doing this does? i believe its just the crank and rods. anyone car to explane. i have a gsr swap that could use a rebuild and i also have a ls engine that the timing belt broke on for doner parts! any help would be great! all motor is a new thing for me. in the past i was all about the turbo!

 

ls rods and crank will give you a longer stroke with the same compression as a gsr if gsr pistons are used. ls rods have been known to be weaker than gsr rods though. you should not rev as high with ls stroke, but can. if you are gonna do the ls rods i recommend arp rod bolts. you will need new rod bearings as well.

 

ok ya that what i was thinking. use the arp bolts on everything. does shot peening *spelling*do anything for the ls rods?

 

i got a ls crank and rods on my gsr motor with jdm type r pistons. arp rod bolts.
puts down 210whp.

revs to 9k no problems. it stays up there for long periods of time on the track. seen 5 track days so far.

only problem i have is its burning oil but it has decent amount of hard miles on it.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/ls-crank-rods-gsr-block-possible-1837872/

 

any head work??

 

thanx mang!

 

If it were me, I'd spend the extra coin and get some aftermarket LS Rods.

 

For an NA build, stock ls rods with ARP bolts are more than enough. My build just turned over 55k miles, and all-mtr-teg's build from that thread just turned over 70k miles. We both drive and rev the **** out of our cars and don't have any problems. My buddy has a turbo'd ls with stock rods, arp rod bolts and head studs, he's making over 280 whp and doesn't have any problems with almost 50k miles.

 

thats what I did it was well worth it. Plus, checking oil clearences on stock rods with arp rods bolts is a real pita... atleast for me it was, but if your on a tight budget stock rods would work fine with arp bolts.....

 

Checking clearances are no problem when you have the rods reconditioned and have precise measuring tools

 

yeah and buy the time you have spent the money on the bolts, tools and machine work you almost bought yourself a set of eagle rods.....

 

Well....good thing about tools is that you can use them over and over!

The $200 or so difference between using LS Rods w/ ARP bolts vs Eagle Rods (already come w/ ARP fasteners) is money well spent, IMHO. Then, you get the added benefit of the bottom end being more stable for higher RPM.

 

Anyone know what the going rate for a quality machine shop to install arp bolts and hone the rods ends is?

 

My machinist charges me 45 to install arp bolts and recondition the rods.

 

If you measure eagle rods, most of the time, they need machining also, they are priced cheap for a reason.

 

Really cuz Ive installed Eagle rods in six different engines and they were all within spec.....

 

You must be really lucky then cause 2 sets that customers brought me to install were tappered so I had to have them machined.

 

must be...

 

just get the ls crank machined, spend a bit to get eagle rods, and then you can run your gsr pistons or watever pistons u decide to go with. but it is a lot easier said than done. lol.

 

ok thanx for the info peeps! i will pick up a set of eagle rods. i will be taking the engine to a machine shop to get bored over if needed. i will have them install everything on the bottom end. i am wanting to find a set of itr pistons. where can i get a set of itr pistons that are over sized? i really dont want to buy anything off ebay.

 

i would use your gs-r block, with ls crank and ls rods... so its a true 1.8. this way you have the block griddle and oil sprayer ready .... i would just get apr rod bolts for the ls rods. and use some pr3 or p30 pistons. if your going n/a ls rods are good enough. i rev my lsvtec up to 9k with no problem (no block griddle no oil sprayer) just dont be a fool and bounch your motor off the rev limiter and you be fine (in that case any motor will blow), i have about 60k on my build. and still running strong.

 

Why not, you can get RS machine 81.5mm pistons on ebay for cheap, for like $180 shipped. That's cheaper than almost anywhere else.
Anyways, I hope you plan on getting forged pistons to match those forged rods.

 

yea ported head. skunk2 stage2 and skunk2 valvetrain.

 

damn. that's gonna be a badass head. GL on your build and post up numbers when you are done.