d16z6 power gain ?
which is the best way to get decent power gains from the d16z6 on a delsol without turbo charging? ive already got a greddy sp2 system from the cat back and am looking to remove the resonator box and put in a k&n panel filter in is there any thing else i could do as i know you guys in the states have been tuning these for years with alot of succes.
which is the best way to get decent power gains from the d16z6 on a delsol without turbo charging? ive already got a greddy sp2 system from the cat back and am looking to remove the resonator box and put in a k&n panel filter in is there any thing else i could do as i know you guys in the states have been tuning these for years with alot of succes.
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im gonna have to say be original. stay NA. nobody does it with D series and its always good to see something different. the z6 is a great starting point. it make get a bit pricey, but you have to be happy with what you have. if it takes alot of money to be happy with it, then so be it. i am a big fan of leaving things as they were designed, NA from the factory stays NA, and so forth. but where NA ends, turbos and superchargers keep going. as for an answer to your question, i have none. i dont have much experience with hondas. im here to learn cuz im starting my first build soon and hondas are cheap and easy. good luck
which is the best way to get decent power gains from the d16z6 on a delsol without turbo charging? ive already got a greddy sp2 system from the cat back and am looking to remove the resonator box and put in a k&n panel filter in is there any thing else i could do as i know you guys in the states have been tuning these for years with alot of succes.
cams, - aftermarket kind
high CP pistons
I H E, intake manifold chipped ecu and tune
thats like a turbo build but to make less than like 160 whp
You could build it NA with somethings like this:
I/H/E
Intake manifold
High(er) compression pistons
Cam w/ cam gear
Bigger throttle body
ECU chipped on Chrome or whatever
and make roughly 140whp. No more. That would cost you including dyno time probably around 2-3K, depending on the deals you can get.
Turbocharge you motor with a good rod/piston combo, piece together a turbo kit at low cost, upgrade your clutch and some other things, and make 300whp for 3-4K. I know what I would do
I/H/E
Intake manifold
High(er) compression pistons
Cam w/ cam gear
Bigger throttle body
ECU chipped on Chrome or whatever
and make roughly 140whp. No more. That would cost you including dyno time probably around 2-3K, depending on the deals you can get.
Turbocharge you motor with a good rod/piston combo, piece together a turbo kit at low cost, upgrade your clutch and some other things, and make 300whp for 3-4K. I know what I would do
full NA build: complete forged bottom end with high compression(somewhere above 10:1) pistons,bored, balanced and blueprinted good for 8K-9KRPM. full head build (lightweight valves, rocker arms, and retainers, performance springs, 3-angle valve job). high lift and duration cam, Standalone EMS, Tri-Y header, short runner intake manifold, bored throttle body, ported head. upgrade injectors as needed, performance coil, adjustable cam gear. and of course a good dyno tune.
yeah that should just about do it. now granted that would be ALOT of money. but thats the kind of things you would do in a NA build. all of the things i mentioned put the power more in the top(race) end of the power band as opposed to mid or low. for more streetable power you would want a long runner intake, a longer narrower header, and less agressive porting in the head. advance cam timing with the cam gear for top end power, retard for lower rpms.
if you could do all of this you would have one screaming engine. of course the drivetrain would need to be upgraded too. granted slapping a turbo on would definitely be ALOT cheaper, BUT thats also not very inventive. when you can show up and spank someone with an all-motor 1.6(bigger after boring).............that says something.
yeah that should just about do it. now granted that would be ALOT of money. but thats the kind of things you would do in a NA build. all of the things i mentioned put the power more in the top(race) end of the power band as opposed to mid or low. for more streetable power you would want a long runner intake, a longer narrower header, and less agressive porting in the head. advance cam timing with the cam gear for top end power, retard for lower rpms.
if you could do all of this you would have one screaming engine. of course the drivetrain would need to be upgraded too. granted slapping a turbo on would definitely be ALOT cheaper, BUT thats also not very inventive. when you can show up and spank someone with an all-motor 1.6(bigger after boring).............that says something.
if you could do all of this you would have one screaming engine. of course the drivetrain would need to be upgraded too. granted slapping a turbo on would definitely be ALOT cheaper, BUT thats also not very inventive. when you can show up and spank someone with an all-motor 1.6(bigger after boring).............that says something.
i find it hard to believe. plus you are missing the point. he clearly said he wants to stay NA. lets try and help him with what he asked for.
BTW to make 200Hp at the crank, he only needs 116ft/lbs at 9000RPMs, 131ft/lbs gets him 250HP at the crank at 10,000RPMs. with small displacement(mainly short stroke) engines, just turn it faster, it will make more power as long as it can flow the air.
i find it hard to believe. plus you are missing the point. he clearly said he wants to stay NA. lets try and help him with what he asked for.
BTW to make 200Hp at the crank, he only needs 116ft/lbs at 9000RPMs, 131ft/lbs gets him 250HP at the crank at 10,000RPMs. with small displacement(mainly short stroke) engines, just turn it faster, it will make more power as long as it can flow the air.
BTW to make 200Hp at the crank, he only needs 116ft/lbs at 9000RPMs, 131ft/lbs gets him 250HP at the crank at 10,000RPMs. with small displacement(mainly short stroke) engines, just turn it faster, it will make more power as long as it can flow the air.
its simple math, as long as the head can flow the air(btw the head only has to flow 200cfm per cyl which isnt a crazy ammount) and theres enough fuel for the air. (TQ x RPM)/5252=HP. so (116tq x 9000rpm)/5252=198.7HP. if you think this isnt possible then explain how Formula 1 engines make over 750HP. they are 2.4L V-8s. how is it possible that 2.4L makes 750hp without a turbo? because they turn them 19,000rpms. thats why diesels dont make alot of horsepower. they dont turn high enough rpms to mathematically make horsepower. they have massive TQ but without rpms, they dont make HP.
you are right, just because it WILL turn that much, doesnt mean it will make power that high. UNLESS you choose components designed to put the power that high. such as a high lift/duration cam, short intake manifold, short header(tri-y preferably), bigger valves, a balanced bottem end and a beefed up(but lightweight) top end and the most important part....a good tune.
Last edited by newtron63h; Mar 5, 2009 at 05:12 PM.
thanks guys for all the input looks like for the amount i would be spending on tune the d16z6 i would actually be better off getting dc2 teg b18 lump put in as they are 2 to the penny over here with pretty much 170 bhp on tap
nope. a interga type r like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-Integra-...1%7C240%3A1318
this is probably the quickest and cheapest way i can make decent power without having to turbo charge
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-Integra-...1%7C240%3A1318
this is probably the quickest and cheapest way i can make decent power without having to turbo charge
just letting you know, (i know you said without having to turbo), but if you just slap a turbo on there and get it tuned it'll be easier, cost less than the swap, and make more power.



