question on how to port n polish
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: delhi, ca, united states
hello HTrs i have a question i have already researched but didnt find anything i have a spare ls head and want some tips and what tools to use im looking for a new build i currently have an ls v but not willing to pay no 700 for a port n polish like i said the ls head is a spare and i just wana try any help would be appreciated and tool selection any how to tips for port n polish would be nice
Get one of these, will take an hour to do you head, after you write the program.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LCaR...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0LCaR...eature=related
Dont forget to go buy the flow bench setup. That would be the point of port and polish to increase flow. What good will your job be if you cant make sure your work is even across all cylinders.
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first...
get some spares and start practicing. feed back from a flow bench or a dyno is a major plus.
here is a post i made a while back as far as electric tools go
I personally would stay away from a Dremel for porting except for little touch up areas. it majorly lacks tourque.
you'll definetly want something that works with 1/4 in shank.
i used this one but after a good deal of punishment the bearings in it started to go a little. Easy enough to replace. I used a variable lamp light socket to adjust speed. had good torque.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4LF06
if your planing on getting more serious about it or have cash the Matabo brand ones are real nice. I played around with one once don't remember the exact model. It had a machinist chuck and was SUPER smooth(virtualy no vibration).
if i recall it was something like this.
http://www.allprotools.com/Met....html
some guys like the old school and newer Milwaukee ones. never used one personally but have read they are pretty heavy. APPARENTLY with a risk of knocking you out
m.
i have always purchased stuff from these places with success
i like the flame shape, tree radius and oval in varying sizes depending on what your working on.
the double cut ones seem to work the best. I generally don't like any of the course cut or aluma-cut ones as they really eat into the piece.
the long shank stuff is pretty cool too. lets you get into the deep spots
http://www.carbidebur.com
http://ruffstuff.com/ thats where i used to get a bunch of stuff from too. They had a lot of Standard Abrasive items for cheap.
For finishing you will want to look into flap wheels, cartridge rolls and even cross buffs. Another particular thing i really liked was a Flapper Stick Mandrel is what is called. a long shank with a slit in the end that you could put strips of sand paper into. really handy for finishing ports.
http://www.standardabrasives.com/
is who makes a lot of the finishing sanding stuff
It takes a little while to get a feel for the different burrs and finishing products. youll get to know what works for you and not.
m.
get some spares and start practicing. feed back from a flow bench or a dyno is a major plus.
here is a post i made a while back as far as electric tools go
I personally would stay away from a Dremel for porting except for little touch up areas. it majorly lacks tourque.
you'll definetly want something that works with 1/4 in shank.
i used this one but after a good deal of punishment the bearings in it started to go a little. Easy enough to replace. I used a variable lamp light socket to adjust speed. had good torque.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4LF06
if your planing on getting more serious about it or have cash the Matabo brand ones are real nice. I played around with one once don't remember the exact model. It had a machinist chuck and was SUPER smooth(virtualy no vibration).
if i recall it was something like this.
http://www.allprotools.com/Met....html
some guys like the old school and newer Milwaukee ones. never used one personally but have read they are pretty heavy. APPARENTLY with a risk of knocking you out
m.
i have always purchased stuff from these places with success
i like the flame shape, tree radius and oval in varying sizes depending on what your working on.
the double cut ones seem to work the best. I generally don't like any of the course cut or aluma-cut ones as they really eat into the piece.
the long shank stuff is pretty cool too. lets you get into the deep spots
http://www.carbidebur.com
http://ruffstuff.com/ thats where i used to get a bunch of stuff from too. They had a lot of Standard Abrasive items for cheap.
For finishing you will want to look into flap wheels, cartridge rolls and even cross buffs. Another particular thing i really liked was a Flapper Stick Mandrel is what is called. a long shank with a slit in the end that you could put strips of sand paper into. really handy for finishing ports.
http://www.standardabrasives.com/
is who makes a lot of the finishing sanding stuff
It takes a little while to get a feel for the different burrs and finishing products. youll get to know what works for you and not.
m.
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