so we put these stage 3's in my b16, when i move the distributor towqards the firewall all the way, it will start, but runs like ****, is my timing off?

 

your timing must be off..recheck it...
edit: the dizzy might be going also

 

what kind of stg 3 cams? did you tune it? anytime you change something internally you will need to re-tune your car...those cams are to aggresive for your stock b16...

 

are you using stock cam gears........how are you tuning the camshafts...........and what valvetrain are you using........what is done to the motor?????????

 

oh yeah and you have to re-adjust your valve lash.. if you dont it will misfire and buck and finally die if it will even run. oh yeah and get a tune

kev

 

damn it sounds like you just popped new cams in with zero tuning and forethought

 

im sorry sir. i dont recall asking for your smart assed opinion. eat **** get out of my post..



now i got it running right, but when it hits vtec it bogs out a bit, and then at 7200 it starts to pull really hard. just bogs out

 

whats the specs on your engine..it sounds like your running some huge cams in a stock motor,..without and details no one is gonna be able to help you out dude..My guess is that you got a good deal on some giant cams and slapped them into your stock engine..Mabye im wrong,and if i am ,prove it to everyone..Whats the specs?

 

haha someone's angry at their poorly running car. get the stick out your ***.

 

You have been asked seven questions that will help us better understand what is wrong with your car, and this is what you give us...

...and its thread, not post.

 

that was my exact thought

 

just to clarify, does it IDLE horribly, or does it run horrible throughout the powerband and get better after 7200?what rpm does vtec hit?

stage 3 cams are designed for LOTS of airflow through a ported and reworked head. if you dont have head work done then its a waste. first of all, big cams dont idle well. thats just the way it works. there isnt a full race engine(gasoline) in the world that likes 900rpm.
my guess is that vtec hits, opens the valves TOO much for the rpms. your engine as it is is not capable of flowing that much air when vtec hits. once you get past that point and get to 7200 where your engine is flowing massive ammounts of air, the extra lift and/or duration of your cams help. what other mods do you have on the engine/intake/exhaust?

you should have gotten a spec sheet for the cams. what is the lift, duration @ .050", recommended timing or centerline? if i know these things i can give you a pretty good idea whether this is normal or if you should be looking for a problem.

also you probably shoulnt play much with the ignition timing. its computer controlled so even when you move the distributor it still adjusts the timing as it sees fit. UNLESS you move it out of its range of adjustment, then im not sure what will happen.

let me know these things and ill try and help ya.

 

Wow...impressive ideas. Good post noob...

 

Here's your problem. You have oversized cams in what i assume is an otherwise stock engine and valvetrain. You didnt tune and now it drives like crap. Well i would start out by getting some kind of tuning done both Air/Fuel and the dizzy set. After that, you should consider upgrading the head (if it isn't already) or you'll run the risk of piston-to-valve contact since the valvesprings can't pull the valves closed in time. A little forethought goes a long way...

 

to all you haters:
my timing was 180 degrees off. problem solved with it not running.
secondly, theyre blox stage 3's, which are equivalent to skunk2 stage 2's (*which run perfectly fine in a stock valvetrain. STOP HATING

you sir, are a genious thats exactly what its doing. it pulls REALLY hard after 7k, and my vtec isnt modified, its at the tock setting of my JDM p30 at 5600 rpms, i also noticed that wwhen i retarded my timing a couple degrees it increased the acceleration and decreased the bogging alot more.

OTHER MODS:
-hondata intake manifold spacer
-1/4" throttle body spacer
-(recently added) vortech FMU
-7 lb flywheel, stage 2 clutch

 

Who are the haters? The ones asking you questions to clarify the situation better? They're just trying to help you with the problem you posted asking for help. If you don't like people responding to your OP then maybe you shouldn't post at all right? Just a thought...

 

the h-a-t-e-r-s

 

Just curious... Why did you go with the stage III instead of the Turbo cams?

 

the stage 3's fell into my lap, quite literally, i traded a blown up gr block for them, so, today i was bored and put them in, and my crank was 180 degrees off, and wouldnt run good, hence me creating this post. then the haters came. now im pissed.

car runs perfectly fine now, BTW

 

sorry but the skunk2 stage 2 cams do require upgraded valvetrain, and why do you have a fmu installed are you boosted?

 

If the car is running now then problem solved but with cams that big you need tunning and an upgraded valvetrain is becessary.the oem parts wereent designed for those cams good luck.

 

it will run but, your stock internals will wear way faster. and then BOOM!...valve breaks, retainers snaps off, piston slapped your head, anyone of those can happen with a aggressive cam like yours with stock valvetrain. just dont rev it too much...gl man.

 

ok he's banned so [/END THREAD]

 

Wow, good way to get helpful information online. Start yelling at the people trying to help you.

 

that made me laugh. H-A-T-E-R-S