Problems with my GT3582R + Tial 44 !!!
Hello Honda-friends!
I am Eugen from Germany.
My ride is a Civic 2 Door Coupê with a GSR B18C1 Engine.
GT3582R Turbo
Tial Blow Off
Tial 44 Wastegate.
Darton Sleeves
Pauter Rods and Arias 9.2 Pistons.
My huge Problem:
when I drive, my Turbo does crazy things...
It goes from 14 Psi to 16, then 18 then 20 ...25...psi!!
The Wastegat has only one blue spring in it! (0,9 bar/12-13 psi)
Well at first I thougt that my Turbohousing ( AR .63 ) is to small...
Last week I have bought a AR .82 Housing....and the turbo make the same!!!
Can anyone explain me that? What can be wrong? The manifold? to small Tial 44???


Thx
I am Eugen from Germany.
My ride is a Civic 2 Door Coupê with a GSR B18C1 Engine.
GT3582R Turbo
Tial Blow Off
Tial 44 Wastegate.
Darton Sleeves
Pauter Rods and Arias 9.2 Pistons.
My huge Problem:
when I drive, my Turbo does crazy things...
It goes from 14 Psi to 16, then 18 then 20 ...25...psi!!
The Wastegat has only one blue spring in it! (0,9 bar/12-13 psi)
Well at first I thougt that my Turbohousing ( AR .63 ) is to small...
Last week I have bought a AR .82 Housing....and the turbo make the same!!!
Can anyone explain me that? What can be wrong? The manifold? to small Tial 44???



Thx
the boost rise with RPM....
5000rpm => 1.2bar
6000rpm=> 1.3 bar
7000rpm=> 1.4 bar
8000rpm=> 1.5 bar
8500rpm=> 1.6-1.7 bar

@ admin please move my topic in the right window thanks!
5000rpm => 1.2bar
6000rpm=> 1.3 bar
7000rpm=> 1.4 bar
8000rpm=> 1.5 bar
8500rpm=> 1.6-1.7 bar

@ admin please move my topic in the right window thanks!
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Make sure you have no leaks / cracks in the manifold. The waste gate can't be opening. Have you checked for vaccum leaks?
I would pull the wastegate and disassemble it just to be sure, while you have it off stick your finger inside your manifold where the WG discharge is and feel around in there for blockage, who made the manifold and can you post pics of where the WG flange meets the manifold?
I wrote an Email to tech@tialsport.com !
And I have got the same answer :
"Hello
What does the manifold look like? I'm willing to bet it's the manifold placement of the wastegate"
Take the wastegate off and see how much boost you get on a 3rd or
4th gear pull.
Jake
TiAL
First thing I do not understand is, where is the difference between my Manifold and the manifolds below?
FULL RACE

LOVEFAB

SPOOLIN PERFORMANCE

Neukin Ramhorn is the same!
TODAY I took my Wastegate off...and tryed to drive my car...
Well it does not make any boost without the Wastegate! (1-2 psi)
BUT if I let my Wastegate on the manifold and take only the spring away, my turbo boost 1.5-1.6 bar from 7500 rpm! WITHOUT ANY SPRINGS!!!!
Guys please help me...wanna drive my car this summer...


And I have got the same answer :
"Hello
What does the manifold look like? I'm willing to bet it's the manifold placement of the wastegate"
Take the wastegate off and see how much boost you get on a 3rd or
4th gear pull.
Jake
TiAL
First thing I do not understand is, where is the difference between my Manifold and the manifolds below?
FULL RACE

LOVEFAB
SPOOLIN PERFORMANCE

Neukin Ramhorn is the same!
TODAY I took my Wastegate off...and tryed to drive my car...
Well it does not make any boost without the Wastegate! (1-2 psi)
BUT if I let my Wastegate on the manifold and take only the spring away, my turbo boost 1.5-1.6 bar from 7500 rpm! WITHOUT ANY SPRINGS!!!!
Guys please help me...wanna drive my car this summer...


Just below the "a" in Full-Race logo, there is a tear drop shaped portion of the manifold that aids in the exiting of the flow into the wastegate. The gases do not want to make a hard right turn into the wastegate and therefore not opening at the proper pressure results. That is the reason that full-race changed their design from the initial ram horn to what you posted. I had the same issue many years ago. Put a small....3-5psi spring in it and see what it does. Port the fire ring area, etc.
If you look at the actual placement of Where the WG port is your's is higher than the rest.
most like were the inside tip of the merge collector meets your WG outlet is just a bit to high if you take the manifold off and grind away at that tip i bet your Problem goes away.
I had a client with the same issue a shop built his manifold, He brought it to be tuned and he noted before his appointment about the creep issue.
Ended up being the merge had to deburr the the tip off the merge.
Post Results i would like to see the outcome.
Again Good Luck!
most like were the inside tip of the merge collector meets your WG outlet is just a bit to high if you take the manifold off and grind away at that tip i bet your Problem goes away.
I had a client with the same issue a shop built his manifold, He brought it to be tuned and he noted before his appointment about the creep issue.
Ended up being the merge had to deburr the the tip off the merge.
Post Results i would like to see the outcome.
Again Good Luck!
The others stated the obvious basic issues that are normally the problem.
If that doesn't fix it here are a few other things to check.
1. Make sure the pipe going from the merge to the WG mounting flange is at least the same I.D. as the flange. Can't tell for sure from the pics, but it looks a little small. Also modifying your manifold by adding the upside down "widows peak" piece will help.
2. The length and diameter of the dumptube matter as well. I assume you have it externally dumped rather than rerouted into the DP? If not do so. Many people use 1 5/8" for the dumptube on a 44mm WG which is a restriction. 1 3/4" is better, but I've still seen boost creep issues at this diameter. We've solved the creep issue by going to a 2" dumptube on a few cars. The longer the dumptube, the more critical the diameter.
If that doesn't fix it here are a few other things to check.
1. Make sure the pipe going from the merge to the WG mounting flange is at least the same I.D. as the flange. Can't tell for sure from the pics, but it looks a little small. Also modifying your manifold by adding the upside down "widows peak" piece will help.
2. The length and diameter of the dumptube matter as well. I assume you have it externally dumped rather than rerouted into the DP? If not do so. Many people use 1 5/8" for the dumptube on a 44mm WG which is a restriction. 1 3/4" is better, but I've still seen boost creep issues at this diameter. We've solved the creep issue by going to a 2" dumptube on a few cars. The longer the dumptube, the more critical the diameter.
No, leave the tip of the merge alone, you've already ground the tip off. The area you've already removed will help greatly and is likely the culprit.











