The lower half (pertinent part):

b18A sleeved with 84.5mm bore
eagle 95mm crank
Carillo LS rods
JE custom pistons
b16b tranny (s4c w/ lsd)
Competition clutch stg 4


Well I finished my build and put it in my race car. I went to the dyno and there was a knocking noise coming from the transmission. It seemed to be resonating across the motor, anyways I took the starter out and the pressure plate looked messed up I could see something wrong with it. Sure enough the next day the rivots where sheared on the pressure plate. Diagnosis was failed pressure plate. Remedy: New comp clutch stg 4. I get it all put back together and go back to the dyno two days later. New problem, sound is back and the timing belt will not stay tight. I take off the belts on the crank pulley and at TDC I can wiggle the pulley back and forth 10-15 degrees and hear a knocking noise. Our initial reaction is... crank is broken. Next we take off the transmission shroud and see that the flywheel is moving when the knocking occurs. Wow that was quite a scare, anyways I hold the flywheel with one hand and move the pulley back and forth with the other and the noise is gone. Our assumption is that the flywheel bolts (arp) are too long for the crank (bottoming out) and lightweight flywheel and it has just enough play to feel secure but on start up it starts its heinous noise making. It is torquing down and the flywheel feels locked into place but everytime it runs for a few minutes it starts the noise and disappears when the clutch is pressed.

Has anyone heard of this before using an eagle crank?

 

Being an ex-DSM guy and very familiar with "crank walk"

Thats what it sounds like to me.

and that sux!

 

I have a very hard time thinking that it is crankwalk. I had a very respectable machine shop assemble the short block with all the right clearances. The pulley does not move back and forth, I have yet to put a dial indicator up to it but I talked to a few local experts and they say no way no how, they are under the belief that the eagle crank possibly has shallower holes than the oem crank and my flywheel since it was used last season could be worn enough from removal and multiple installs to cause the bolts to bottom out and not fully clamp the flywheel to the crank, causing the problem when the motor spins up. I am going to take it apart after work and find if this is the issue.

 

I think the likelyhood of an Eagle crank having too shallow of crank bolt holes is very small. I also think that the flywheel not getting tight would have been obvious if it was bad enough to be the culprit.

I hope its a simple fix but it doesnt sound good to me.

 

Life lesson: Aluminum flywheels don't take abuse well.

Flywheel was slightly warped and caused it to waller (is that a word?) out the holes and the arp bolts had a gap between them and the flywheel to crank. This caused the problem wobbling flywheel, hence I ordered a new CC steel flywheel and new bolts.

 

Score!!!!

Your a lucky man!!

 

good info!

 

I always use stock flywheels unless the clutch calls for it's own custom flywheel.

 

well I have a fidanza flywheel and it has seen five years of abuse, and it is in perfect condition! It uses 9 screws...I friend of mine had problems with his using it with 6 screws and original clutch. Mine has something like 33 thousand miles and looking good!

 

Who knows, The problem with this aluminum flywheel seems to be that it was on my motor from last year and has been taken off and put on 3 seperate occasions. The aluminum facing is ground down from having the bolts torqued down that many times. I just said to heck with that and went with a competition clutch 8.8 lb chromoly flywheel. I pick it up after work today I will update when it is installed this evening.

 

So the problem was not the EAGLE CRANK it was the installer of the flywheel assembly who did not check there work yet you still have not changed the title of this thread.
Regards Uncle Dave

 

I think I have fixed the post, sorry for the misinformation; I have not mastered the ins and outs of navigating forums.

 

OK, I installed my flywheel with the OEM honda bolts. No noise everything seems to be operating normally. Another thing to mention is that ARP flywheel bolts are longer than the stock bolts, they actually bottomed out on the crank on my last flywheel. I guess its best to keep a honda as much honda as possible.

 

Cool no point misleading people that are looking at buying products from the company you had put up a negitive comment about when infact there product in your engine is fine,that sort of thing happens why to offen on forums when its an install/installer stuffup.
Regards Uncle Dave