Drilled and slotted rotors
Just picked up a 95 LS.
Trying to source out some brembo drilled slotted rotors for it, not having any luck.
Anyone know a nice place to pickup a F+R set?
Trying to source out some brembo drilled slotted rotors for it, not having any luck.
Anyone know a nice place to pickup a F+R set?
tire rack
brembo rotors and pads
just picked up a set of slotted on sale and pads.
slotted rotors are better than drilled. i only say this cause i have seen 2many drilled rotors crack. race track **** with big horse power.
really its up 2 u. what ever u like. i doubt u r likely 2 crack drilled rotors.
brembo rotors and pads
just picked up a set of slotted on sale and pads.
slotted rotors are better than drilled. i only say this cause i have seen 2many drilled rotors crack. race track **** with big horse power.
really its up 2 u. what ever u like. i doubt u r likely 2 crack drilled rotors.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Slotted rotors have their place, but some people even question those. You can get plenty superior braking performance by upgrading to larger blank rotors, upgrading fluid, upgrading pads, and (most expensive) upgrading calipers. But the first 3 will probably be plenty for your needs.
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Drilled rotors are NOT more likely to crack. Not the ones where the holes are cast into the rotors, anyway, which is how the good ones are made.
I've used drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-face rotors on my heavily-tracked cars. All three types eventually cracked with track use, and they all lasted the same number of track miles before cracking. People think that the drilled rotors crack sooner because they see the cracks forming around the holes and they think the holes caused the cracks; however, the fact is, based on keeping records of actual track miles, the same radial-direction cracks form on slotted and solid-face rotors too, after the same amount of track use.
OTOH I've found that there are no advantages to the slotted and/or drilled rotors, either, and they cost more than solid-face rotors. So I stick to the solid-face rotors now.
The one type of rotors that I have found last longer before cracking is two-piece rotors with flexible connection hardware, because they allow the outer ring of the rotor to expand without a fixed attachment to the inner hat of the rotor. But they're very expensive, and replacing one-piece rotors more frequently is more cost-effective.
I've used drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-face rotors on my heavily-tracked cars. All three types eventually cracked with track use, and they all lasted the same number of track miles before cracking. People think that the drilled rotors crack sooner because they see the cracks forming around the holes and they think the holes caused the cracks; however, the fact is, based on keeping records of actual track miles, the same radial-direction cracks form on slotted and solid-face rotors too, after the same amount of track use.
OTOH I've found that there are no advantages to the slotted and/or drilled rotors, either, and they cost more than solid-face rotors. So I stick to the solid-face rotors now.
The one type of rotors that I have found last longer before cracking is two-piece rotors with flexible connection hardware, because they allow the outer ring of the rotor to expand without a fixed attachment to the inner hat of the rotor. But they're very expensive, and replacing one-piece rotors more frequently is more cost-effective.
Well I've currently got drilled slotted rotors on them, and all 4 are warped, and all 4 are cracked.
But thanks for the good info, this is going on my DD so I guess i'll just snag a set of regular rotors.
But thanks for the good info, this is going on my DD so I guess i'll just snag a set of regular rotors.
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ComCool
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Feb 24, 2005 07:34 AM








