So I replaced the brake pads on my DA (Rear), I used that brake tool that rotates/pushes in the piston so that the new pads fit. I then bled the brakes all around. test drove the brakes and they are fine. My understanding is that the emergency brake is self adjusting and it was noted that the first couple times I used it that it only came on at the very top. As I used it more and more it "self adjusted" and seems to be in normal range. The problem I am having is that it seem that the brakes (rear only) now are stuck, I parked the car on a hill and with no e-brake on it will not roll back, I also of course noticed this upon acceleration. I have checked the ebrake itself and removed the cables from the caliper and they (the calipers) are still so tight I can't push the car in neutral down a hill. Did I do something wrong or miss something? Please help.

 

Did you make sure that the pad pins were in the piston slots?

 

As far as fit everything is ok, the new pad are in exact same position as the old ones were.

 

Also, did you check the rotor runout? The rear hub/rotor interface can rust and cause the rotor to wobble. This can cause the brakes to hang as the rotor rotates.

 

yeah rotors are new, I forgot to metioned those were also replaced.

 

Check the runout. You can verify what I am saying by raising the rear of the car and rotating the wheels by hand. If they hand in certain spots, remove the rotors and clean the hub faces with a wire brush.

 

ok, ill check it last time I tried I couldn't rotate the wheel at all.

 

I had the runout checked and everything is ok, I also forgot to mention that I replaced the master cylinder and booster at the same time, could it be I just need to rebuild the calipers?

 

***update**** all four wheels lock! and have stayed locked for over an hour any suggestions are appreciated I am thoroughly out of ideas

 

You need to adjust the booster and MC push rods when you replace those parts. That is why your wheels are locked.

 

need to adjust the booster and MC push rod when you replace what parts? I've replaced brake pads and rotors many times in the past 8 years on my Integra and have never adjusted the MC push rod clearance, actually.

OP: when you replace brake pads, you should ALWAYS remove the caliper slide pins, clean them off, and lube them up with brake grease to ensure that the brake caliper and slide freely on the pins. If you don't, they can get locked up like you describe.

 

They were supposed to be pre adjusted? initially the brakes did well, then the longer I drove the harder the pedal got and eventually I figured all 4 were locked, I remove the hose from the booster and took off cap from MC no change, at this time pedal's still hard as a rock well for ***** sake I bled the brakes thinking there may have been a pocket of air that expanded or something, after I bled them I went for a test drive and everything seems ok hope it was just a snafu, cause I don't wanna remove everthing again to adjust the push rods.
Thanks for the advice everyone,
Rob

 

its definately the master cylinder... its probably is defective because the master cylinder just plug and play (master cylinder) you shouldnt need to adjust anything on the master cylinder the only thing you need to do is bleed the system. Why did you change the master and booster in the first place?

 

I switched out the booster and MC initially because my pedal when depressed would initially feel firm then proceed to get lower and lower and it was very spongy.

 

Your problem is going to reoccur. Look in the Helm manual for the MC and booster push rod adjustment procedure. This is a common problem when the MC and/or booster is swapped.

 

Somewhat similar to what just happened to me. I swapped out everything and three days later my front brakes locked up. I was going to flush the system and rebleed plus check calipers but now maybe I should adjust the booster.

 

can anyone tell me how to adjust the push rod on the booster....can you do it with it still on the car or do you have to remove it