hey guys, i got a 95 gsr with a greddy kit...here's the current setup.

WHEN I AM FULL THROTTLE, THE CAR (ACCORDING TO BOOST GAUGE) IS BOOSTING 0PSI. one night, the vacuum line to the actuator/wastegate ripped a little, and i was boosting 12+ psi, i let off the throttle because i noticed it wasn't stopping at 8psi...i replaced the line, and no i'm back to 0psi when WOT.
so my question actually is: why is it doing that, any ideas?

here's the setup as best as i can explain in detail...

95 gsr with greddy turbo kit
greddy type s bov
no name intercooler around the size of the 32v greddy one...
310cc injectors
vortech fmu

here's a brief history...
when i first put the kit on, i didn't have the 310cc injectors, so i ran stock and i didn't have an intercooler...i also had to "custom" lol my charge pipe to fit my chasis correctly since it was off a del sol. so it had a lot of couplings...it was boosting to 8psi, but when vtec hit or...around 5k'ish the car would hesitate and it didn't gain anymore power...from idle to around 5k'ish was a strong pull but when it hit around 5k'ish it would seem like the powerband would just level out...so i figured maybe it was starving for fuel? so i picked up the 310cc injectors. after the install of the injectors, no more hesitation, smooth powerband...but i noticed it was only hitting 0psi on my boost gauge...weird, but i didn't think/care much because its my daily, and it didn't bog or hesitate anymore and i dont race, so i said fu'k it (for now). i figured maybe i have a boost leak and that's why its only going to 0psi...so i picked up an intercooler and some good couplings, and made sure that everything lined up and fit correctly, etc etc etc. but still...0psi.

here is what is happening as of now...if i smash, i throw a CEL for fuel...still 0psi...im getting turbo chatter and a weak(er) bov release. btw, the bov is now mounted behind my bumper about 6inches from the intercooler on the charge pipe side...

next up...i have an original blue box, NOT emanage, but blue box...i know its "made for" obd2, but ive heard/read that people run it on obd1 with good results (remember, i just want a quick daily driver, im not looking to tune it to max hp...) but i haven't wired it up yet because 1) i dont want to hack up my stock wire harness or pay a ton for a jumper harness/extension. so should i just man up and wire up the blue box and get rid of the vortech fmu?

actually, now that i think about it, i have a lot of questions, hahaha. sorry guys.


1) why am i only hitting 0psi?
2) why is there turbo chatter?
3) why is my bov so weak/release after the turbo chatter (im sure #2 and #3 are related)
4) should i continue to use the vortech fmu or go to old school blue box?

i just got a golden eagle vacuum box/manifold so im going to hook that up and re-route all my vacuum lines hoping that'll make a difference, atleast boosting normally, and getting rid of the turbo chatter and a strong bov release.

in anycase, if ur in sac, and feel like ur in a nice mood, hit me up, drop by, and take a look? or text me, email or whatever ur ideas, and help me out! its my daily, and little problems are starting to add up and i need this thing running better and normal.

(please don't pm, cuz i can't check it from my phone)
so either reply on the thread, or text/call me 916-596-5596
thanks guys!

 

ummmmm.........

 

i dont get what ur "ummmm......" is for or about...but thanks for the bump? lol

 

I think thats the point man, you dont get it. Look at your setup man. when I see greddy kit, fmu, no intercooler stock injectors, all I can say is ummmmmmmm.

and your welcome for the bump.

 

You're putting more fuel to a bigger injector, get rid of that FMU and get some real management.

Also as far as the boost line goes, make sure it's not crimped or anything like that once you get the car running properly. You're asking for problems if you keep driving it.

 

i dont quite get what ur saying...greddy kit with fmu is a fairly normal setup for a dd setup for an obd1...since my car is obd1 i run the missing link and fmu since the unit that came with it for fuel management is the bluebox, which is built for obd2...not to mention the greddy kit is sold and was R&D'd with no intercooler, the only thing really "ummmmm" about my setup is the stock injectors...

please read the full post i wrote...because ur commenting on something that has long been changed...

im 110% sure there are no kinks or crimps, but im thinking perhaps i routed them wrong and/or tapped into the wrong sources, so im going to install my golden eagle vacuum box over the weekend.

and as far as getting rid of my fmu...do u think its a good idea/safe to run the greddy blue box since my car is obd1?

 

You shouldn't run anything but a nice cheap aftermarket management unit of which is OEM ECU based.

I won't lie, I've ran an AFC before on 440's but the car ran like crap. I built a daily on free uber data and chrome maps and then got a tune. It ran a million times better and lasted forever.

 

as a supra owner i can comfidently say that you have a wastegate issue along with several other problems, but.... check to make sure the (actuator is hooked up and the lines arent backwards going to it "if it is internaly gated) if it is externaly gated, take the gate off and check for tention in the valve and the spring is working. also to answer why you are gettign turbo chatter and the bov vent is small there are a fe things that coudl give you these events.
1. the bov is adjusted too tight.
a. the bov shoudl be adjusted so that it is open about 2mm while at idle then fine tune it .
2. the bov location can cause compresor surge (turbo chatter) as it may be to far from the turbo.
3. the fact that you are running no boost will not vent the bov the whole way it will barly open at 0

but in all it sounds liek your wastegate is stuck open causing the turbo to free spin but never build boost. its hard to say without looking though good luck

 

Maybe 6 years ago, yes. Even in 2004 you could get a decent FREE ems for OBD1 called Uberdata which controlled both fuel AND timing, and even Crome was an option. The thing that is NOT common anymore, is to guess at AFR's without a wideband. That's like playing spin the bottle - and keeping your eyes shut! Even if you wanted to keep it carb-legal, no wideband is what really makes you look like a n00b. However, if you plan on using a blue box, carb status isn't your goal, thus a 'real' ems is the only logical solution.

As for your issue, I'd have to say there is a big issue with your vac line setup, and/or your wastegate or BOV. With the WG line ripped or disconnected, it will spike to a very high boost level (if you allow it). Normally I'd say it's a coupler that popped off, but you said you made decent boost at one point. I've seen some real nasty rigged vac line setups, and boost fluctuated worse than wallstreet, and the boost gauge's needle shook like crazy (0-10-0psi 50 times a second). If you have the BOV tee'd with the WG, it could be the BOV. A badly leaking BOV will not hold any boost. You did use the TOP BOV nipple, right? The bottom nip would hold it open (leak) in boost. That would explain making boost with the line broken/disconnected.

Otherwise get some cheap home depot plumbing caps, put a valve stem in one, then pressurize the chargepipe system. Ideally you'll include the turbo, so cap on the turbo inlet, and another in place of the throttle body. Expect a mild leak at the turbo, but nowhere else.

 

ok simple check here do you have the wastegate vac line to the right port some wastegates have a line that will hold it open and one that will hold it closed as said above

 

Your going to blow that ish up if you continue. My advice is that if you can't figure out whats going on you shouldn't try to boost it. Pay someone to fix it for you.