okay, i just got done with doing a compression and leakage test on my 94 gsr.
1st cylinder-215 psi, 12% leakage, from exhaust
2nd cylinder-130psi, 55% leak from exhaust only
3rd cylinder-215 psi, 3% leak
4th cylinder-190 psi, 20% leak, leak from exhaust and a little from intake.

what could be wrong with 2nd cylinder, could it be the exhaust valves, does it need a valve adjustment or could the valve not be good anymore?

 

Could be a few different things. First thing you can do is make sure the engine is 100% in time. I would then take the valve cover off and inspect the cams. Be sure that both cams look perfect, and are not sheared off at some point. Make sure that they are within spec as well.

After you do the above, the next thing to do is take the head off. Be sure to order another head gasket before though, as you cannot reuse the old one. Once it's off, inspect the valves and possibly take it to a machine shop to have the deck straightened.

Good luck

 

Adjust all your valves, then recheck since it doesn't really cost anything. Chances are the valves aren't that far off though to cause 130psi. If your timing is good and everything is visually ok when pulling the valve cover, it's time to pull the head.

It's probably either bent/burnt exhaust valves or something isn't allowing the valve to close all the way when it's supposed to.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/creating-new-topic-choose-subject-specific-title-not-help-me-asap-2477272/

 

uh oh the thread title sheriff's in town

"compression and leakdown diagnosis" would've been a good choice

 

i did a compression and leakdown already like stated above. so i tried to adjust the valves on cylinder 2 but it seems fine, so i didn't adjust it. i'm taking the head off, how do you tell if it's a burnt valve?

 

http://www.benplace.com/bjp_head2/100_0026.jpg

http://www.aa1car.com/library/valve_burned.jpg

Those are major examples, but a lot of the time vavle problems aren't gonna be obvious like that. The other issue is if you remove the valves, you will most likely need a valve job since they would have to sit in the EXACT same place as they were removed, or they won't seal properly.

I just recently had my GSR head freshened up at a local machine shop and got a pretty good deal. They disassembled it, cleaned, decked, did a full valve job, replaced 2 exhaust valved that turned out to be bent, changed the valve guide seals, and reassembled for $250. This was minus the cost of the seals cuz I provided new oem ones. I would not have known that the 2 valves were bent just by looking at them.

Then you'll want to add the cost of head gasket, head bolts or studs, and timing belt/water pump (if they haven't been done in a while, might as well do it when stuff's torn apart)

Hopefully this has been helpful.

 

damn, my valve's not as bad as the second picture, but i'm not sure about the first because i haven't taken em out yet. i have a local machine shop here that will recondition my head for $275, is that a good deal? i also have a person that will do 3 angle valve job, backcut the valves to improve flow, deshroud the valves to improve flow and blend in the valve seats to the throat just like an Integra Type R for $200. is that a good deal?

 

thats a good deal, i got my valves checked out, hot tanked and new seals installed for $120