So I've been having some on going trouble with my 96 Accord (you can read about it here:https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...092&highlight=) and I think I finally narrowed it down to the fuel pump or TPS (more than likely the fuel pump). Is there a way that I can inspect/test these to make sure that it is indeed the problem before I order a new one?

Thanks,
-Alex

 

How did you manage to narrow it down to two problems that are in no way related to each other?

 

Well I figured it could be either one, not both. It gives the symptoms of a bad TPS; random loss of RPM, but not consistently. However, when I disengage the clutch (press the pedal in) while the rpm's are "struggling" to rise the car will freely rev when the accelerator is pressed. I'm assuming that the fuel pump can't keep up with the load, but when the clutch is pressed in, the load is gone so the engine can now freely rev.

Does that make enough sense?

-Alex

 

Any ideas anyone?

 

With this power loss, does it still run smooth, or do you percieve a skip?

P

 

It is smooth, just tapers off like you let off the gas (maybe a little slower than that). The only way it will "come back" is if I push the clutch in, let off the gas and then put it back on. Even then it won't work sometimes until i do it again.

 

How are the EGR ports?

 

It reacts like this no matter how hard or far you push the Accellerator?

 

yes, that is correct. I'm going to take it for a ride around the block and make sure. Would a video help?

 

With further examination, it seems like there is a slight sputtering, but now it appears that the RPMs will slowly rise (with some sputtering) at WOT when the "problem" is happening. It also starts to sound rough, just like it isn't getting enough fuel. Could it be my injectors?

 

Take a look at this to test your TPS:http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/vi...sensor-267168/

Have the EGR ports ever been cleaned? Is the RPM range that the engine stumbles, in the 1500+ range?

 

hmm, I saw that TPS thing earlier, but I couldn't get it to work? I just got one reading all the way through as I twisted the throttle cable thing. using the middle and the left I think it was something like 10.1 ohms, then with the middle and right it was 3.27 ohms. Never cleaned the EGR ports, but the problem happens a little bit higher in the RPM range than 1,500. Last night it was so bad I couldn't drive the car; stumbled at a stop sign and it seemed like I was only running on 1 or 2 pistons, and the car stalled. It also doesn't help that my idle is just a hair above 0.

Should I try the EGR posts?

 

If you are not getting a variable reading while moving the TPS through its movement, I would look more into that. If the computer is getting a closed throttle reading the entire time you are driving, it may cut fuel causing your sputtering.
When you unplug the connector, do you get 5v on one terminal(should be one outside), ground(other outside terminal)? The center one will be the signal terminal.

 

Hm, not entirely sure, I'm up at college again (darned education) so it will be about 3-4 weeks until I am home again to check out the situation. The numbers did not change at all, so I think I was doing it wrong? unless the entire range was "broken."

I'll update this as soon as I get home again.

Thanks for the input guys,
-Alex

 

Could it possibly be bad compression? I seriously doubt it due to my symptoms, but I'm just checking.

 

I just realized I'm a complete idiot and I think I checked my map sensor do-dad (I think) and not the TPS like I originally though. I'll check that when I get home for sure.

I also came up with a list of things to do just to double check

1) compression test (is there a magic number for these cars?)
2) check the gap of my plugs
3) check for spark in all cylinders
4) inspect distr cap for obvious wear/build up and replace if needed?
5) get a fuel sample from before the filter
6) Check the timing (a standard timing gun should do the trick?) But Doesn't the computer automatically adjust timing, and will the gun work with a low idle? Or am I just looking for a mark/dot that is lined up?
7) Clean the EGR ports.
8) If it will make it to a shop have them check the fuel pressure (does it have to be a honda dealer, or will other shops have the tool?)
9) if the above do not work, drive it into a tree

 

1. your looking for all cylinders to be within 10% of each other. The actual value isn't as important. This shows they all have similar wear.
6. I'm pretty sure you need to jumper a service connector, not sure. This will keep it at base timing w/o the comp advancing/retarding it.

 

Regarding 6, I read about jumping the connector, I mainly was just wondering if the timing can be off since the computer automatically adjusts it. Also, I hear that you will get improper readings if the idle is off (as in not in spec/really low)?

And for 1, somewhere between 170-210 maybe?