soon i am going ls-vtec turbo. but i want to be able to get near 300 whp. so i need all the help and advice on what i need to reach this goal. like what size injectors, fuel pump, etc...and how much boost is safe..
the motor is a bone stock b18b with a jdm b16 head with gsr cams.
so any advice will be appreciated. thanks in advance!

 

i'd say at least 450cc injectors, walbro fuel pump. as for boost i'd say anything 10psi and under. you might also want to look into getting arp rod bolts/head studs and eagle rods. i've heard that stock ls rods wont be able to hold that much power.

 

yea i plan on getting arp head studs when i put together the motor. but as far as the block i didnt really want to do anything to it yet. moneys tight right now...lol

thanks!

 

You will need ARP rod bolts as a precaution. LS rod bolts are not designed to spin upwards of 7k RPM and will stretch, destroying your bottom end. Get them, first IMO.

That said, what's your budget for this build?

 

450DSM injectors will be OVER their max duty cycle for 300whp, please look to higher flowing injectors to ensure there is enough fuel. Don't forget a fuel pump.

 

If all you wanted was 300HP you could of done that with a stock B18B and a turbo kit. The VTEC head isn't necessary and unless you at least upgrade your rod bolts your not going to be able to take full advantage of the VTEC head anyway. If you haven't torn apart your B18B then leave it alone, add boost and get a good tune. Save the VTEC head for down the road when you have more money or just sell it.

 

yep, diffenitly get rod bolts

 

this is all good advice.. and go with what theshodan said... he knows his shizzz

 

so whats is safe to take the motor up to on completely stock bottem end?? 7500?? because the motors already in my car and i just wanted to slap the head and turbo on which i already have and get it tuned asap. if 300 whp is too much for a stock ls vtec turbo then what is a reasonable number of whp i can pull out of it?? putting rold bolts in will set me back a while

 

I would get it tuned up to ~8k, but set redline at ~7.5k. Revving higher will overstress the internals, and a snapped rod can sometimes take out valves and the head (using the free piston). To make the best of it for now, you'd want to run a smaller turbo than the typical 57trim t3/t04e people use, and run a bit more boost.

This shows what the motor can do with a larger turbo, but a smaller turbo like a 50trim would broaden the powerband, making use of your lower rev limit better:

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...hp?f=38&t=4982

 

exactly. Simply "revving higher" doesn't mean that there is still going to be usable power at all at those rpms. As hiprofiles stated, redline at standard levels for the b18b is just fine at 7500rpms, as not to stress the valvetrain. Chaning rod bolts and other items may be nice insurance, but isn't necessary until it is time to start building.

 

Never seen an LS rod bolt break, spun the stock rod 8-8500 on several motors. I'm not the only one, either, are you aware of what the Honda Challenge guys do? The first three years the rules kept changing right and left making the early engines uncompetitive, there are several of them that found their way into street cars and have accrued 50K+ miles of 8K+ rpm treatment with exactly zero rod bolt failure.

The LS weak rod bolt myth was originally debunked in '99, but misinformation has always spread faster than knowledge. If they are so weak... show me a broken one. I can Google Images broken sleeves, rods that have broken across the beam when the rod bearings welded themselves to the crank from loss of oil pressure, rod bearings and main bearings spun resulting in damage to rods and block... nope, no rod bolts.

Not trying to come down on you hard, it's just annoying to see this subject brought up time and again for over a decade.

 

Oh, yeah, the rods aren't weak either. I've sprayed 200 shots on stock rod LS engines that made 180 whp. Again, I'm not the only one.

Rods don't usually break from power, they break when you sieze up a rod bearing from hammering it against the crank with detonation. The rod welds itself to the crank and proceeds to get beaten against the block until it breaks. When a rod sees too much power - either outright or from long term fatigue - they bend into nifty S-shapes. Look at every hydrolocked engine on the planet, and the handful of rods that do that from power.

FYI, D16 rods like to S-bend after a few thousand miles at 300-350 whp. That's a liiiiiiitle smaller than LS rods.

 

so i dont really need the rod bolts then?? because a few of the 1st posts said i would need them...

and thanks for all the info guys!

 

dont bother with rod bolts. keep the vtec rev limit and youll be ok.

dont change whats not broke. if you're going to take apart the bottom end to change out the bolts you might as well upgrade everything else

as the shodan stated, 450's will not be good for your 300 WHP goal, 550's bare minimum

 

im very concerned about this post because i am literally about 10% away from completing my lsv-t set up and i purchased some 450cc blue tops for this set up....

t3/t04b on 10lbs
b16a2 head - gsr cams - no headwork - blox im/65-70mm tb portmatched
b18b1 block - gsr girdle - arp rod bolts - shot peened stock rods 81.50
CR around 9:4.1 - 9:7.1 cometic .040 hg
3inch dp - 2 1/2inch exhaust
walbro 255

obviously from my research and from my understanding i am under the impression that they can hold up to 300whp.

now i have to ask... do you speak from expierence or is this more of an educated guess? i dont mean to put anyone down and act like i know more etc etc just curious why you think that?

thanks

 

damn, well... that sucks.. guess i gotta buy a bigger set..

thanks for the advise!

 

What about breaking in the motor when you first start it before it goes to the dyno to get tuned... i know myself i plan on starting the engine and doing laskeys racing break end method and checking for leaks etc etc and then having it towed directly to a local tuner but i thought i would bring this up and bring it to someones attention who maybe isnt aware of this...

but isnt the worst thing you could do to a brand new motor that doesnt have sealed rings.. is flood it with too much fuel with too big of injectors?

just thought id shine some light on the subject thats all

 

bump

 

ok sounds good then. i didnt want to take apart everything now that the motor's already in the car. and ill be purchasing some injectors soon(550 or bigger), fuel pump and will be getting the car tuned afterwards by church in socal.

thanks for the info!

 

would u guys recommend i run msd??

 

Stock ignition has proven itself viable 500 + whp. No need to upgrade to MSD imo

 

oh ok thats good then...

and thanks man...apreciate all the advice from everyone