The car starts and runs fine but when the car warms up and I drive around town the oil light comes on and blinks. When I come to a stop and the car idles it stays on constantly. Whats wrong with my car?

95 Accord f22b2 auto
I recently changed the oil, havoline 10w-30 with a wix filter.
it isn't leaking oil and it's full.

 

Recheck your oil level. We just finished up with one fella from the United Arab Emerates who was four quarts low (Well, his CAR was four quarts low). really!

Are there any associated engine noises?
You could have several different issues.
Tou could have something as simple as a bad Oil Pressure Sender Unit, or something as serious as internal engine damage.

P

 

I checked the oil tonight, it is full, four quarts low? lol he was empty?
no engine noises
runs fine but the oil light comes on.

I hear it could be the oil sending unit or the oil pump?

Keep in mind it only comes on when the car is warmed up and town driving it blinks, it stays on constant when idling

 

I'm doing the oil sending unit tonight, I will let you know if that fixed it.

 

I had this happen to me two mornings about a month ago when it was really cold. First time I WAS a little bit low on oil (valve cover gasket is leaking) So I added oil. It did it AGAIN the next morning on the way to work.

Hasn't done it since and I haven't noticed any other problems.

 

my accord did that too, then my uncle changed the oil sending unit and fixd it. the blinking is same u just describe.

 

Let me know if you fix the problem,im curious.

 

oil sending unit or oil pump, hope it is the former and not the latter

 

If you were to point a flashlight into the oil filler hole on the valve cover, what colour would you find the internals.
Depending on the oil you use, it should be a silver/copper color.
If you find anything close to black/brown you may have sludge issues.
I think in your case it will be the former.

What's happening is the oil is thinning out as it warms up, and the pressure's dropping.
This is a normal process. The engineers design for it and every engine deals with it.
It's the reason for Multi-vicosity Lubricants.

This issue is often one of three thing.
Worn Oil Pump (aka: Insufficient pump output volumn)
Excessive Internal Clearances (aka: Excessive Internal Leakage)
Oil Pressure Sender unit (aka: It's Fibbing)

A garage would put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it to determine what's going on. In leu of that I would suggest the Sender Unit first.
It's the cheapest, and is readily replaceable. (Just above the Oil Filter)

P

 

What if my oil light never comes on at all? Even though my oil may be low?

 

Most manufactures used to design a dash lamp self test into the auto's circuitry. All the warning lamps would light when the key hit the 'start' position, and would return to normal function when the key retuned to the 'run' position.

Check to make sure your's lites as well.

If you're really nervous about it you can either test the circuit from the switch or you can just go out and buy a replacement switch and schedule replacing it at the next oil change.

P

 

You're smart.

 

It looks like my dash lights come on normally when I turn the key, then they go out as they should after a few seconds. So I should be looking for a switch that is bad? What's it called? Thanks, P Adams. You really know your stuff.

 

I put the sending unit on and it fixed it Thankful it was only something small $3.46

 

Oil Pressure Sending Unit (or switch)

P